1994 S10 1Ton SAS

[78C10BigTen]

So, today was a pretty productive day.
Tore the axle down again, got the carrier out, pressed the old bearings off (I reused them, they seemed fine and its not a highway truck)

Cleaned up the open carrier real nice, took it to the shop and used the height stand and measured out my distances to the .001's.
(bearing surface to bearing surface)
(bearing surface to ring gear surface)

Measured that out on both carriers (old open carrier and new grizzly locker)

Being armed with that data, I was able to very easily set the preload and pinion to ring engagement.

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Is that a full time locker?

 

[Vbb199]

Is that a full time locker?

Grizzly locker works like a Detroit, mechanical, but uses tire speed differences to lock and unlock, also it won't give you a bunch of bs on turns like a Detroit will.

 

[Vbb199]

Grizzly locker evidently will spit teeth with big HP and tires from what I've read.

Which is where the Detroit (or as I call it Destroyt comes in), it survives, everything around it grenades)

 

[bucket]

I've honestly never seen anyone check gear mesh pattern with grease. Pretty cool.

 

[Vbb199]

I've honestly never seen anyone check gear mesh pattern with grease. Pretty cool.

I didn't have the marking compound, I could've used bluing paste I have... But DAMN that stuff makes a nasty mess and stains everything lol


Obviously the idea is, coat a couple teeth real thick, run it thru, it'll wipe the grease away to the depth... Marked on the center front and back, good enough for me!

 

[Vbb199]

Got the axle all back together today, did a bunch of running and errands, so unfortunately I could not finish the hydro assist, but I did get the box ported
(front line output is drilled and tapped off center to miss the front shackle hanger I welded on.

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[Vbb199]

So, with the increasingly agitating issue of the gov bomb in the 14 bolt rear end I'm moving onto other great things.
I needed an open carrier so I can buy and use a locker, or just weld the spider gears, so I found this.
Drum brake 14 bolt ff rear, from a k20, 3.73 geared, open diff.
Paid 150$ for it. plus, I can use the leaf springs in the rear of my suburban.

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[Vbb199]

Steering box back in, and now you can see why I tapped the hole off center and crooked... Even with some grinding, the fitting JUST fit against the front shackle hanger. Lol

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[Vbb199]

Hydraulic lines in place.
Now to get the valve out of the power steering Pump and modify it to flow higher.

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[Vbb199]

So, I pulled the valve out of the ps pump, took it apart, modified a few things, doubtful anyone wants the boring details of the whole process, but I'll bore you anyways.


I drilled out the main fitting (all the way to the right) . The hole in the middle measures about .125" in a pump, I drilled it out .0625-.125 larger, in this case, I picked the middle road, and went .0937 larger... Making it .218, you can see the pic of it opened up next to a stock one.
*****DOING THIS INCREASES LOW RPM FLOW!****



Follow that, I removed the shim from under the end cap (the threaded piece on the end of the hardened piston, third from the left), I inserted a shim (between .025-.031 thick) in the bottom of the piston housing (7th over from the left)
*****THIS INCREASES BLOW BY PRESSURE!*****

You may also additionally grind a little bit off of the limiting stud (5th over from the left)
***this is so it doesn't completely block off your pressure with the new added shim in the piston housing ****


Before assembling MAKE SURE all the debris is cleaned from the parts, I strongly recommend deburring the bore in the main fitting after you drill it out!!!!!!!!
Following that, I reassemble the piston.




Then from there, I stretched the spring under the piston and housing, it was 1.880, you want to shoot for 2.000-2.500". I just went for 2.125.
*****DOING SO INCREASES THE DURATION OF PRESSURE AT HIGH RPMS!*****


I would recommend if you do the things mentioned above to increase your flow rate, do them 1 mod at a time, try it.
Im doing all at once (the subtle, safe side of the mods) because I'm running a hydraulic ram, and crossover, pushing 39.5-15-16.5 tires.
I need all the pressure I can get safely.

You can drill the main fitting out even further, stretch the spring even further, grind down ALOT of the limiting stud, and go with real thick shim in the piston housing, but at that point, you're pushing the pump to its max capacity, and especially if it's a reman, it might grenade, and in the event of a strong pump, it'll blow out seals in your box!
Given enough pressure you can even blow out the aluminum front box plate!!!!

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[Vbb199]

While you've got all that apart, inspect your screen. This is an old one I had lying around.

Little debris and particles getting into the whole system can be a real disaster.

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[Vbb199]

Axle back under the truck, most bolted together.

Hydraulic ram lines hooked up loosely for now.


Started raining... I'll have to plumb those lines with HQ zip ties, and get the ram centered up, then weld the tabs to the tie rod, then give it a shot!!!!!

Don't worry, I'll post videos.

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[Catbox]

I never thought of hot rodding a power steering pump...
Interesting.

 

[Vbb199]

I never thought of hot rodding a power steering pump...
Interesting.

What do you think PSC does?
They take factory pumps and boxes and modify them, new seals and bearings and all, and resell.

Obviously their quality is probably alot more perfected than mine, but this is just some diy crap....
Pretty much what most of this s10 has been.
"DIY"

There's even mods you Can do to the internals of the gearbox for higher flow.

 

[77 K20]

How much do you suppose a PSC pump would actually help a stock steering box?

And why do almost all the PSC pumps have remote reservoirs?