1987 Chevrolet 350 tbi high idle

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AuroraGirl

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I thought I could live with the 650 idle but I can’t anymore. How can I bump up the idle some? If I leave the truck idling at 650 and walk away and come back the truck will have stalled by the time I return. It’s also sketchy rolling to a stop idling so low and the truck basically shutting off but never completely stopping. It drops significantly in rpms to below 400 and pops back up sometimes (usually before stalling) what could be causing this? I really need atleast one truck lol one doesn’t run and this one doesn’t steer right now.
im pretty sure i recall having this convo with you

your truck if its dipping that low has something wrong
if your truck is dipping low, its often possibly an alternaotr which output if it vastly dips limits your spark power and if you have sensors it pulls them low

you have an ECM, and you have a 12 si on this truck iirc.

get a CS130/CS130d/AD230 and run a sense wire to your junction block and the charge wire to your junction(It runs to your battery, doesnt it?) and stop plaining

or go back to our discussion because the specific things I told back then, some were googled and I dont really want to research things again if we are just going to go in circles lol.

You also need to verify all your grounds, and by saying that, save time and add them. GM made them lousy from factory and any corrosion bites into the ability. if you add grounds properly they can have corrosion over time and maybe still not swing your system.


I dont remember if we looked up your MEMCAL/PROM id but if you send your VIN ill show you what GM says it should have based on a website
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’ll get to checking grounds tomorrow, it runs fine when you first start it and going down the road but once high idle drops off it drops to around 650. And that’s too low according to the forum I read about idle speed. A manual should have been 750 not 650. So is that still a voltage problem? Or is that a throttle body ecu map sensor other sensor garbage problem? Throttle position sensor? I replaced map, iac, engine coolant temp, and I have a throttle position sensor. I don’t remember what other sensors I’ve touched.
 

AuroraGirl

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I’ll get to checking grounds tomorrow, it runs fine when you first start it and going down the road but once high idle drops off it drops to around 650. And that’s too low according to the forum I read about idle speed. A manual should have been 750 not 650. So is that still a voltage problem? Or is that a throttle body ecu map sensor other sensor garbage problem? Throttle position sensor? I replaced map, iac, engine coolant temp, and I have a throttle position sensor. I don’t remember what other sensors I’ve touched.
i seem to recall posting a tsb in this post somewhere about a calibration change for trucks based on either idle or IAC corrections for 87-89 but I could be remembering wrong.
Can you post your VIN?

like, go get it. its on your title, base of window, registration, insurance card. then I can plug it into TIS2000 website for it
 

iamtherealJayy

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Sent you message
 

AuroraGirl

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Wait. This was originally a high idle issue?

have you adjusted your idle speed per the procedure yet....
 

iamtherealJayy

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Adjusted idle per the procedure of iac?
 

iamtherealJayy

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Just went back and read a post from the first page, apparently ~650 is the idle for a manual 5.7L. I don’t know what made me think this whole time the truck was supposed to be at 750. 650 just seems low in my opinion. When I had the k10 running decent I had the idle set at closer to 800. Next time I drive this truck I’ll try an pay attention to the idle speed and voltage gauge and see if fluctuation is either effects the other. It doesn’t do it often but it’s kind of sketchy when it does just randomly dip in and out.
 

AuroraGirl

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Just went back and read a post from the first page, apparently ~650 is the idle for a manual 5.7L. I don’t know what made me think this whole time the truck was supposed to be at 750. 650 just seems low in my opinion. When I had the k10 running decent I had the idle set at closer to 800. Next time I drive this truck I’ll try an pay attention to the idle speed and voltage gauge and see if fluctuation is either effects the other. It doesn’t do it often but it’s kind of sketchy when it does just randomly dip in and out.
I would just say if youre noticing issues idling that it may just be dirty passages or you have a leak like vacuum or fuel pressure issues. if you have a idle that especially doesnt like coasting, it going low then correcting is the IAC Being "lazy" or over traveling its intended run. Also make sure no obstruction in air filters etc.
 

iamtherealJayy

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I’ve never personally replaced the air filter, I’ve always said if I did I was getting a chrome exposed element filter. Lol. There shouldn’t be a vacuum leak since I’d say 95% of the time it idles fine at 650(still think that’s really low for a manual) but occasionally dips down. It doesn’t bother me if it drops 50-100 but when it drops enough the truck “service engine soon” light comes on (since key in ignition) that’s when it’s sketchy. It runs down the road fine all day the only times it has dipped down like that is when sitting complete stop for several seconds. If there’s a load on engine or throttle input it goes all day but coasting in neutral rolling up to a stop then sitting there a minute it may stumble some before you take back off.
 

AuroraGirl

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I’ve never personally replaced the air filter, I’ve always said if I did I was getting a chrome exposed element filter. Lol. There shouldn’t be a vacuum leak since I’d say 95% of the time it idles fine at 650(still think that’s really low for a manual) but occasionally dips down. It doesn’t bother me if it drops 50-100 but when it drops enough the truck “service engine soon” light comes on (since key in ignition) that’s when it’s sketchy. It runs down the road fine all day the only times it has dipped down like that is when sitting complete stop for several seconds. If there’s a load on engine or throttle input it goes all day but coasting in neutral rolling up to a stop then sitting there a minute it may stumble some before you take back off.
chrome exposed would be worse for driveability since cold start you have no THERMAC and warm hot soak its gonna be hot air

While idling, my 1990 olds had that issue, dips, cleaning throttle, new alternator(eventually failed) and QOL issues like fuel injector cleaner in the tank, tune up etc made it better.
if your ECT is original replace it, dont rememebr if you ever did. also ensure your EGR Is working if you fixed it(saw you had 32)
if you have not fixed 32 you have an EGR issue, and if its not closing, at idle and that would cause you issues.
 

iamtherealJayy

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What is QOL? And that’s a good point about the exhaust not going into intake, didn’t take that into consideration. Yes ExhaustGasRecirculation Valve was replaced. I have also replaced the EngineCoolantTemp sensor on the intake manifold. After I replaced the ManifoldAbsolutePressure and the ECT sensor the truck ran on 87, when I first got it the truck wouldn’t run well on 87 and only ran on 93 and when gas prices went up last year I had to switch that. 93 was roughly $3.20 at that time. 87 is currently $3.29 now lol.
 

iamtherealJayy

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Also, regarding the oil leak and valve seals I have a bottle of oil treatment zinc additive with “stop leak”. I was going to add that in to help out the cam and hopefully stop the oil burning off on start up. I actually got a bottle for each truck.
 

AuroraGirl

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What is QOL? And that’s a good point about the exhaust not going into intake, didn’t take that into consideration. Yes ExhaustGasRecirculation Valve was replaced. I have also replaced the EngineCoolantTemp sensor on the intake manifold. After I replaced the ManifoldAbsolutePressure and the ECT sensor the truck ran on 87, when I first got it the truck wouldn’t run well on 87 and only ran on 93 and when gas prices went up last year I had to switch that. 93 was roughly $3.20 at that time. 87 is currently $3.29 now lol.
quality of life

what brand EGR valve and why isnt it AC delco. does your EGR have a solenoid on it or near it too
 

iamtherealJayy

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Couldn’t answer question on brand. It was just a whatever was available so I could get the truck home since it was in a different city. I assume standard motor parts or something similar. It was from oreillys and a pain to change. I do not think it has a solenoid but I couldn’t answer that without looking at it and looking for a solenoid. Off memory I believe all there is a vacuum line going to map maybe? Or somewhere similar.
 

AuroraGirl

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Also, regarding the oil leak and valve seals I have a bottle of oil treatment zinc additive with “stop leak”. I was going to add that in to help out the cam and hopefully stop the oil burning off on start up. I actually got a bottle for each truck.
Ok... does your truck have a flat tappet/ if you have a roller cam dont do that.

Also, you have oil at startup, you my sir have what sounds like leaky valve seals.

tired old engine with weak valve seals. You can use nice additives, they can help, but they dont bring back something from the dead if its dead.

I mean im not one to peddle a snake oil, I have used a few products that have done something but its really not likely to fix a mechanically worn out thing, so you need to really check your expectations if you decide to try something.

For oil burning, generally. engine restore. It should increase compression (for wear on cylinder walls) its not really by design able to do much about the valve seals but if there were theoretical in consistencies on your valve seats and this was inside the chamber it probably could technically help but its definitely only able to do that in the most roundabout and not often way unless you have a lot of oil consumption lol.
Also, equally, engine deposits. Rich fouled plugs? Oil really black? Hesitations or bad heat soaking? this wont help that.

For engine seal like oil pan leaking, ive actually had good luck with top end oils because they had leaked and now they are slowed the hell down. that was amsoil and i had no intention of monitoring this for repair, only going by what the floor says and /snow and that was a while ago

For engine running due to fuel deposits on your TBI injectors and cylinder deposits, a single nice treatment of **** in your gas tank is about all youre ever gonna get from dumping one in. I fixed my car having hesitations and boggy running when i did it to my 1990, also the on ramp to the freeway a few times, black smoke and it came alive to bring me up to a smoking 165 or less hp like it used to. None of that 130 hp or other stupidness! Jk lol, but it really helped the driveability, because injector deposits. Its not gonna clean your cylinders much and its not gonna do all much for the valves that gasoline doesnt do already but if your injectors are clean more appropiate vaporization allows better cleaning so that would be indirect.


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THE ONLY THING THAT WOULD IN MY OPINION POSSIBLE TO LIFE/DAY THE ISSUE is a treatment of GM top end engine cleaner. Its also expensive on amazon, you should try looking at a dealer. But other companies may work well, and someone may make it for GM as private label and sell it on their own right. GM does this with chevron/Techron on DEXCOOL, and injector cleaner. No idea about this stuff. Anyway, that video is project farm and he had results with seafoam but you need to use it on the intake and soak, you cannot dump something into your tank and expect your valves to be clean and sealing the next day lol.

If you try injector cleaner, restorer, and do a top end clean, you may just bring your compression enough to not have issues. Clean your TB and verify the PCV is good and not full of oil gum and your hose is the right kind and that your other valve cover breathes with the proper setup
 

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