1981 C7000 Starting Issue

[Nony]

Hello,

I’m no mech, so please bare with me. My smog pump froze on me, so I replaced the belt to run the alternator solo.

After a jump, it idled for a good 20 minutes then I shut it down.

Picked up a new battery from Napa and it fired right up.

The next morning I go to start it, click or pop, then silence. Turned the key again, nothing. No power to headlights or wipers.

Voltage tested the battery around 12.6

Light tested from the starter up to what I believe is an ignition relay (pic.1) After a what sounded like a random relay click, power was on continued to the steering column, so I turned the key, click, then back to square one.

But then I also light tested from the starter up to this same point, this time with the key on, no voltage found anywhere.

I found that this particular relay randomly engages, allowing me to turn key, click, and back to square one.

Also, the bypass cranking the solenoid switch, gets no crank, just some small sparks and an occasional relay click.

Im at replacing a relay, a solenoid, the neutral safety switch, or replacing the starter.

Any idea is appreciated. Thanks.

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Pic.1

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[bucket]

Sounds like the battery cables have a poor connection, likely at the battery.

 

[AuroraGirl]

So im not sure whats up with your glass fuse panel thats also bolted to that... but if you want a better solution to wire a wire than the eyelet, you can buy fuse taps, brass, that slip under the round metal on the fuse body and then press against the tang holding it and then you can put a spade female over it.

Anyway, yeah, cable or connection, what engine are you using?

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if accessible, disconnect battery and use a wire tool on a drill and clean up the starter connections externally, then get a multimeter and measure the positive cable from the thing to the starter in volts one at the relay on at the positive on the starter, use alligator clips, watching display jump or turn the key, if you can get it to crank observe your reading, if not, just do an ohm test (May not reveal anything)
youre looking for not a lot of voltage drop, you would do the same to any ground cables too, but if your power was to be okay, then I would just tell you the likely problem is those starter connections and you should really remove it and bench clean it since those wires im not sure if they are delicate at all or how easy it is to get in there, your hardware is rusted pretty good and im wondering if its all original hardware because those usually arent like that by now

at least I thought they used plated hardware or something. maybe enough time has passed for corrosionI guess lol. Anyway. I said to do the wire thing first but really even if it was the cause, you should still remove starter and clean up or at least clean on truck. if you have great accessibility, then thats the way to do it. you can also upgrade to gear reduction starter if you wanted to get baked with two birds I believe the saying is (get it, stoned)

the following info is if you wanted to upgrade

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[Nony]

Resolved.

It was main ground from the battery to frame. Bolting to frame was rusted and a bit loose. Grinder the surface reattached with new bolt and nut. Then it fired right up.

Thanks all for the replies and time.

 

[Nony]

So im not sure whats up with your glass fuse panel thats also bolted to that... but if you want a better solution to wire a wire than the eyelet, you can buy fuse taps, brass, that slip under the round metal on the fuse body and then press against the tang holding it and then you can put a spade female over it.

Anyway, yeah, cable or connection, what engine are you using?

You must be registered for see images attach

if accessible, disconnect battery and use a wire tool on a drill and clean up the starter connections externally, then get a multimeter and measure the positive cable from the thing to the starter in volts one at the relay on at the positive on the starter, use alligator clips, watching display jump or turn the key, if you can get it to crank observe your reading, if not, just do an ohm test (May not reveal anything)
youre looking for not a lot of voltage drop, you would do the same to any ground cables too, but if your power was to be okay, then I would just tell you the likely problem is those starter connections and you should really remove it and bench clean it since those wires im not sure if they are delicate at all or how easy it is to get in there, your hardware is rusted pretty good and im wondering if its all original hardware because those usually arent like that by now

at least I thought they used plated hardware or something. maybe enough time has passed for corrosionI guess lol. Anyway. I said to do the wire thing first but really even if it was the cause, you should still remove starter and clean up or at least clean on truck. if you have great accessibility, then thats the way to do it. you can also upgrade to gear reduction starter if you wanted to get baked with two birds I believe the saying is (get it, stoned)

the following info is if you wanted to upgrade

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Resolved. Thanks!

 

[Nony]

Sounds like the battery cables have a poor connection, likely at the battery.

You nailed it buddy. Thank you.