Fuel Gauge Tank Selector switch and valve

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

danzey

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
23
Location
Kansas
First Name
Danzey
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
1984 K10 - two new tanks. Two new fuel sending units. One is an ac delco the other is from LMC. Ground from battery to frame and then to sending unit is good.

Fuel gauge is stuck at 9:00.

Fuel selector valve moves between the two tanks but doesn’t run correct on the passenger side as it will only idle and drive around slow - any throttle demand and it dies. Assuming I should replace selector switch first and then possibly the selector valve?

Can the switch and or valve cause my fuel gauge issue? The pink/black stripe wire is not carrying any resistance up to the gauge.
 

Jgonick

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2017
Posts
328
Reaction score
413
Location
West Texas
First Name
Joel
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Fuel gauge at 9 all the time or only with passenger tank?


The pink/black stripe wire is not carrying any resistance up to the gauge.
Usually PNK/BLK goes to valve (from passenger tank sender) and from valve the PNK goes to gauge.

edited to include wiring diagram-just in case.
 

Attachments

  • dual_tanks.png
    dual_tanks.png
    153.5 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:

danzey

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
23
Location
Kansas
First Name
Danzey
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
Thanks. Yea I meant all pink. The fuel gauge is at 9:00 all the time with either tank selected.

I feel like the sending wires in the tank valve are not connecting to the pink wire. Can you pull the plug and jump a green wire from tank sending unit to the pink wire running up to the dash to see?
 

grummy

Junior Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2024
Posts
15
Reaction score
35
Location
Midwest
First Name
Chris
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
C1500
Engine Size
305
>>>> Can the switch and or valve cause my fuel gauge issue?

Not the Switch I dont think, but the valve... Yes. The Valve has the contacts in it for the sender selection. I did two new tanks as well, and I thought I was out of luck getting the gauge to work. But, I switched the tank valve back and forth a dozen times, listening for the moto in the valve to run. And, my gauges started working ! I think the contacts in the valve were dirty and moving them in and out, they must have cleaned up. Now I switch between tanks every fill up to keep things moving.

If they were not going to clean up, I probably would have run the two tank sender wires up front and put in a temporary switch that would feed the pink wire until I could save up for a new valve.
 

75BEASTK20

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2024
Posts
24
Reaction score
56
Location
B.C. CANADA
First Name
Cal
Truck Year
1975
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
427
I had nothing but problems when I first got my K20 dual tank.
Bad wiring was first- wires everywhere. Bad ground. Finally said to hell with it and did two new tanks, two new sending units and all new wiring. Kaching$. but she works now
 

Jgonick

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2017
Posts
328
Reaction score
413
Location
West Texas
First Name
Joel
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Can you pull the plug and jump a green wire from tank sending unit to the pink wire running up to the dash to see?
PNK/BLK or PNK/WHT (depending which tank you are checking) could be jumped directly to the PNK wire.

The sender controls the current going to ground. The more current going to ground the more the gauge heads towards “Empty”. Unplugging the PNK wire completely should send the gauge past full (3 o’clock)

Here is a good video explaining how to diagnose a gauge
LINK - fuel gauge diagnose
 
Last edited:

Dmack

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2019
Posts
342
Reaction score
449
Location
Central OR
First Name
Dave
Truck Year
1983
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Gauge stuck at 9 o'clock means you have an open circuit, so something isn't connected/broken wire/etc.

I fought mine for a while before finding it was a bad dash selector switch.
 

danzey

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
23
Location
Kansas
First Name
Danzey
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
I jumped the two tank wires over to the pink one at a time and the gauge read full (both tanks are full)

So the sending units have ground and are working. I’m going to put a new switch and tank valve in and hopefully that fixes the problem.
 

danzey

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
23
Location
Kansas
First Name
Danzey
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
I ended up putting in a new switch just to eliminate that possibility. I chose to put in a 1987 switch that isn’t momentary. I also installed a new fuel valve and bingo the problem is fixed. Now the biggest challenge will be how to get the heat shield back in place to protect the new valve from the exhaust heat.
 

Sgt Gus

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2023
Posts
318
Reaction score
474
Location
Texas
First Name
Mark
Truck Year
87
Truck Model
R20 3/4 ton
Engine Size
454ci/7.4L
Sounds like alot of work. I have to dig into passenger, aux tank and figure out why that side causes it to die. I was thinking fuel pump, but guess I should ck voltage of wires at valve 1st. Not looking forward to it.
Good job.
 

danzey

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2024
Posts
18
Reaction score
23
Location
Kansas
First Name
Danzey
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
I just replaced the valve and switch for my 86 k10. Both tanks new and new sending units. All is now working perfect.

The problem - after replacing the valve I have a slight hesitation at 1600 rpm that wasn’t there before. I have a new fuel filter in place.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,415
Posts
957,106
Members
36,750
Latest member
jdishman2355
Top