big block starter replacement

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496bb

496bb

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So, need to replace starter on my 87 454. Don't trust the usual auto parts stores remans, maybe the Napa with lifetime warranty. Not a terribly hard job but don't care to lay on the ground and do it over again cause of a crappy part.

Is there any advantage to the mini starters? Engine is stock, will get a mild cam eventually but not headers

Also, is there an easy place to get to under dash or hood so I can test the continuity of the purple wire that goes to solenoid? I know it goes through firewall with others but not sure if there's a spot easy to connect to without piercing wire jackets. And also the two orange wire attached to big lug on solenoid?
 
bucket

bucket

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Just test for power at the purple wire at the starter connection, while someone turns the key.

Use a '95+ Chevy truck starter, along with the shorter bolts that it uses. Not only does it crank the engine over easier, but it's lighter weight, smaller and easier to install.
 
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Ricko1966

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Why do you suspect no continuity on solenoid wire? First thing I do on no crank no start is,make sure that battery is charged,then short the solenoid. If it doesnt start then I check battery cables if gooid,clean and tight at both ends then I replace the starter,if it does start I start checking ignition switch and neutral safety switch.
 
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CountKrunk

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my starter did the no start deal once so has me on edge haha.
 
496bb

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Rick - already did all the tests and diagnosed the starter. Simply want to test the 37 year old wires while its easy and just confirm while they are disconnected and I can manipulate them a bit.
 
bucket

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Ricko1966

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496bb said:
Rick - already did all the tests and diagnosed the starter. Simply want to test the 37 year old wires while its easy and just confirm while they are disconnected and I can manipulate them a bit.
Click to expand...
If you are testing the wires integrity,continuity isn't enough,it can read 0 ohms and only have 2 strands of wire,test it with a load,an old sealed beam headlight makes a good load and you can see it shine wherever it's pointed when you turn the key. Same with testing fuel pump leads,they can light up an led test all day and not be able to carry enough amperage to run a fuel pump,and like I already said you don't have to have a friend to see if the light lights. Saying this for everyone that reads this,not questioning what you've done or know.
 
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Robert Bare

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What bucket said. Any chance you can use the mini, go for it, unless like me, is just an old plow truck,lol. More power, better cranking hot AND cold. There is a reason they cost 3 times as much.
GM's rarely have the corrosion problem growing up inside the wires, like chryslers do. For a real test you would have to do voltage drop tests.
Best rule of thumb, if there is corrosion right at, or right below the terminal, cut back a bit and replace.
Just because it is tight and looks clean means nothing. Have taken many batt. wires off of starters, that were tight, only to find signs of arcing. "Clean" is not wiping with a cloth, you must sand/wire brush, scrape the metal.
 
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77Dmax

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I have mine rebuilt. Usually costs around 50 bucks and done by the afternoon.
 
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I just went with what the auto parts store had available on the shelf - it wasn't hard to do and since my original one was beyond dead anything that turned was better. Amazed the old one worked at all when I pulled it off, all the plastic around the solenoid was shattered, bare conductors visible in there, a true mess.

I'm rather envious of people who live in areas where they can get stuff rebuilt. We have almost no real industry around this place, its all tech/service work. The local welding gas/supplies shop is one of the last holdouts - now their neighbors on either side are upscale cocktail bars and mid-rise 7 figure condo buildings. Wonder how much longer they will be able to hold out...
 
496bb

496bb

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Bucket,

The linked newer truck version has a slightly different solenoid setup - looks like a large lug connecting to motor and another large lug below it. Assuming the one small terminal is the 'S' terminal. Connect battery wire to the bottom one that is opposite of the motor connection? Sorry if that's a dumb question
 
bucket

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496bb said:
Bucket,

The linked newer truck version has a slightly different solenoid setup - looks like a large lug connecting to motor and another large lug below it. Assuming the one small terminal is the 'S' terminal. Connect battery wire to the bottom one that is opposite of the motor connection? Sorry if that's a dumb question
Click to expand...

Correct. The little terminal is for starting. The large stud (that's not wired to starter motor) is what the battery cable attaches to.
 
JD Miller

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I would Not get a starter from Napa. Napa sells junk now days

I actually have a starter from Autozone on my 81 , probably 15 years old , plus it has a lifetime warrenty
 
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I installed a starter on my 454 (early 70s LS5) with a Delco Delphi one for a 99 Suburban from Oreilly. Also used the slightly shorter mounting bolts. Starter P/N R613326B. Dorman P/N for bolts was 678-107. Everything bolted right up and works beautifully. Starter is a small permanent magnet gear reduction unit
 
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