YakkoWarner
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 29, 2024
- Posts
- 191
- Reaction score
- 265
- Location
- Central Texas
- First Name
- Wolf
- Truck Year
- 1989
- Truck Model
- R2500 Suburban
- Engine Size
- 454
You have a k20? 1974 would be a full float 14 bolt. 12/10 bolts came in half tons.
Inboard rotors/drums are not as convenient as if they were outboard, but not really a big deal overall.
Buy the correct socket for the axle/spindle nuts.
If drum needs to be removed to be changed or turned, it will require pounding all the lug studs out and reinstalling them (personally I’d replace them).
Technically, on a drum brake full floater, you don’t even have to take the wheel off to pull the hub/drum, if you were only needing to change a wheel cylinder and no work needed on drum itself. Pull axle shaft (make sure you have enough room to slide the shaft out), spindle nut(s) off and slide assembly off.
Not something most do on smaller trucks, but class 8 and medium duty’s that pretty normal to pull the hub, drum, wheels as an assembly.
Other than that they are not really any different than any other self adjusting drum brake setup.
Also, I’d replace the rubber soft lines, if they have not been replaced in your ownership or a known date of if/when they were replaced. One of those fairly cheap parts that get overlooked and can cause plenty of headaches.
Don't you have to remove something from inside the center section to enable the axle shaft to slide out???