Rims won't fit on rear with drums.

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TotalyHucked

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I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

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Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

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If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
 
mlsceo

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TotalyHucked said:
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
Click to expand...
That's not the issue at all.
 
mlsceo

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TotalyHucked said:
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
Click to expand...
Look at the pic in post#76. The wheel is 2 parts welded together, the barrel of the wheel and the wheel center. There are 4 welds that join the center to the barrel. In between the welds there are open areas. The wheel center on his new wheel is shaped a little differently than the center on a factory wheel. The factory wheel center fades away between the welds, the new one does not. See the small paint nicks about 3/8" from the end of each weld? Cutting back the raised portion of the lip between the welds provides the needed clearance. I bought the same wheels and made that simple mod, easy. Funny thing is at the time I thought about posting the issue and fix just in case anyone else ran into the same thing, I didn't, and BAM! Here we are.
 
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TotalyHucked

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mlsceo said:
Look at the pic in post#76. The wheel is 2 parts welded together, the barrel of the wheel and the wheel center. There are 4 welds that join the center to the barrel. In between the welds there are open areas. The wheel center on his new wheel is shaped a little differently than the center on a factory wheel. The factory wheel center fades away between the welds, the new one does not. See the small paint nicks about 3/8" from the end of each weld? Cutting back the raised portion of the lip between the welds provides the needed clearance. I bought the same wheels and made that simple mod, easy. Funny thing is at the time I thought about posting the issue and fix just in case anyone else ran into the same thing, I didn't, and BAM! Here we are.
Click to expand...
Ohhhhhhhhhhh I see. Yeah that would be tedious but not terrible to remedy. It also looks like it hit the barrel of the wheel, hopefully that was just dropping it coming off or on at some point. If it's hitting the main barrel, that's a bigger problem
 
squaredeal91

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TotalyHucked said:
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
Click to expand...
I was confused for a bit myself lol
 
mlsceo

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TotalyHucked said:
Ohhhhhhhhhhh I see. Yeah that would be tedious but not terrible to remedy. It also looks like it hit the barrel of the wheel, hopefully that was just dropping it coming off or on at some point. If it's hitting the main barrel, that's a bigger problem
Click to expand...
No, it won't hit the barrel. And the mod isn't visible from the outside of the wheel either. Small cutting wheel on an angle grinder is the best bet. then just a little clean up. In my introductory post someone asked about my 15x10s, and I noted the mod but didn't describe it at any length.
 
Redfish

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Cyrillious said:
As it is a spacer would not work as the rim cannot get the studs through to have any threads to use.
Click to expand...
I don't think you understand how the spacer is built. The spacer would have its own studs. The existing wheel studs use conventional lug nuts to hold the spacer onto the drum. The spacer has its own studs that you then use as you normally would.

I do not advocate using spacers when you could easily and cheaply just grind out the inner part of the new wheel. I confess that I do not understand how you have the energy to post your complaint but have no interest in using a grinder to just fix the issue with the wheels as @mlsceo has repeatedly stated will work.

We are all sorry that you paid for something that didn't fit correctly and we all want your problem fixed. This forum is very helpful and useful and you have been given some good and easy options.
 
Grit dog

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Redfish said:
I don't think you understand how the spacer is built. The spacer would have its own studs. The existing wheel studs use conventional lug nuts to hold the spacer onto the drum. The spacer has its own studs that you then use as you normally would.

I do not advocate using spacers when you could easily and cheaply just grind out the inner part of the new wheel. I confess that I do not understand how you have the energy to post your complaint but have no interest in using a grinder to just fix the issue with the wheels as @mlsceo has repeatedly stated will work.

We are all sorry that you paid for something that didn't fit correctly and we all want your problem fixed. This forum is very helpful and useful and you have been given some good and easy options.
Click to expand...
Not sure if he knows the difference between the 2 types of spacers I and others think, recommended.
Believing he does, I presume his response to spacers not working was for a thin slip over spacer not leaving enough threads to get proper engagement on the lugs. It would certainly get “some” threads as it engages at least 1/2” with no spacer.
But I also am not sure 1/4” would fix it as he never really helped with details.
Actual bolt on spacers would be fine and also safe but I think the OP wasn’t looking for solutions but rather just venting.
 
mlsceo

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idahovette said:
Kind of a bullsh!t remedy after spending how much on the wheels that were "supposed" to fit?????
Click to expand...
It's the aftermarket. Stuff happens in the aftermarket. If he had test fit the wheels before painting them, as would be normal procedure for most folks, he would've caught the issue and had the option of returning them. Case closed. Now, it's time to make the simple mod I have described. Not the end of the world.
 
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OK just went thru the whole thread and @misceo ,Manuel, had the problem solved on the first page?? Why did the OP NOT go back to Summit when he found a problem....paint or no paint they should have done something about this problem? I can't find anywhere that says he has contacted them? It's STILL a bullsh!t solution to grind on new wheels when they were SUPPOSED to fit!!! It could possibly decrease the integrity of the wheel
 
Cyrillious

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Redfish said:
I don't think you understand how the spacer is built. The spacer would have its own studs. The existing wheel studs use conventional lug nuts to hold the spacer onto the drum. The spacer has its own studs that you then use as you normally would.

I do not advocate using spacers when you could easily and cheaply just grind out the inner part of the new wheel. I confess that I do not understand how you have the energy to post your complaint but have no interest in using a grinder to just fix the issue with the wheels as @mlsceo has repeatedly stated will work.

We are all sorry that you paid for something that didn't fit correctly and we all want your problem fixed. This forum is very helpful and useful and you have been given some good and easy options.
Click to expand...
I have other repairs that needs addressing for me to get working to drive on the road. I have alternative wheels on that I can test drive and enjoy my project for now. When I feel the urge and motivation to machine down the inner lips interfering with the fit and I get it on I will post on here.

Yes I forgot about those spacers with the built-in studs. I am not a fan of the wide stance spacers and rather keep my tires in tight unless its a minimal lug_shim 1/4"? I do not know if such a thing exists. This is my first project which happens to be a truck, 1980 GMC Suburban. I have my method of madness working on this thing. So yes this is my first rodeo, err trying to get there. It's my way of keep momentum going like a squirrel, all over the place. I hope you understand my thought process. I apologize for rambling here.
 
Cyrillious

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TotalyHucked said:
I just read through the whole thread, started out as understanding the issue (or so I thought) and then just got confused lol. So lemme see if I'm understanding this right. Are you saying that the center bore of your new wheels...

You must be registered for see images attach



Won't go over the center hub of the rear drum?

You must be registered for see images attach



If that's the case, that's an easy enough fix. Just need to open up the center bore of the wheel a touch or turn down the center hub of the brake drum.
Click to expand...
It's not even touching the housing. I was conversing with @mlsceo on the mod that needs to be done. One of them is machining down the outer lip with GM stamping of the brake drum because the inner rim is interfering it. It will clear the hub but it has clear the studs.
 
Cyrillious

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after ruminating on this conversation I feel I have no choice but to help calm people's anxiousness, I decided to post a pic what it will pretty much look like on the road (minus the paper bags and green tape). I'm about 95% done. Yes this is my Frankenstein Monster of a mess with the alternative wheels I mentioned. Rough looking but it got the job done and it's back on the ground.
 
mlsceo

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idahovette said:
OK just went thru the whole thread and @misceo ,Manuel, had the problem solved on the first page?? Why did the OP NOT go back to Summit when he found a problem....paint or no paint they should have done something about this problem? I can't find anywhere that says he has contacted them? It's STILL a bullsh!t solution to grind on new wheels when they were SUPPOSED to fit!!! It could possibly decrease the integrity of the wheel
Click to expand...
Wil not hurt the wheel. it is a MINOR modification.
You guys are gonna make me go pull a wheel off my truck when it's totally unnecessary for me to do that. Again, it's a SIMPLE solution. Good golly. Yes, it SHOULD'VE fit. But it doesn't, It's the aftermarket! I fixed mine without any drama, he can too if he so chooses.
 
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