Best way to transport 19 55 gallon barrels?

DC-3

Forgot to update. I had an OK trip, but I am really lucky because the rust on my gmt800 factory hitch was fatal and i just made it home before it failed completely. The thing about it is that the chain hooks are attached to the same point, it would have been a runaway trailer!

Im not too worried, but i am bummed. Im just glad it happened with the least dangerous/nothing to lose load possible, and it wasnt stressed on the road because of weight. The bumper I knew was getting bad, it was squishy to step on, but the trailer hitch was hidden just behind it

I am going to replace the bumper and the hitch, curt and others make solid square tubing aftermarket ones, the oem one is defintiely a weight reduction type situation but if i found a good one from gmt800-900 i could use it. I also could use a gmt800-900 bumper Im pretty sure.
when I do that, Im gonna do the rear cross member which is large but its sold new and its the spare tire crossmember AND it contains the driver side shock-mount
TO do so requires lifting the bed up, but thats a good time to stop rust on the frame and the springs and axle, gonna shoot for next summer to do this

AuroraGirl said:

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Forgot to update. I had an OK trip, but I am really lucky because the rust on my gmt800 factory hitch was fatal and i just made it home before it failed completely. The thing about it is that the chain hooks are attached to the same point, it would have been a runaway trailer!

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Im not too worried, but i am bummed. Im just glad it happened with the least dangerous/nothing to lose load possible, and it wasnt stressed on the road because of weight. The bumper I knew was getting bad, it was squishy to step on, but the trailer hitch was hidden just behind it

I am going to replace the bumper and the hitch, curt and others make solid square tubing aftermarket ones, the oem one is defintiely a weight reduction type situation but if i found a good one from gmt800-900 i could use it. I also could use a gmt800-900 bumper Im pretty sure.
when I do that, Im gonna do the rear cross member which is large but its sold new and its the spare tire crossmember AND it contains the driver side shock-mount
TO do so requires lifting the bed up, but thats a good time to stop rust on the frame and the springs and axle, gonna shoot for next summer to do this

Click to expand...

Wow that brings back memories of my childhood, when on a quiet night, you could hear the cars rusting where they were parked!
Thank god more people don’t come out west to buy used cars, because it’s worth it! But there would be no used cars left for us locals here!

Thank god, from the other thread, you have liability insurance if you’re towing with Bluetooth structural components!

Grit dog said:

Wow that brings back memories of my childhood, when on a quiet night, you could hear the cars rusting where they were parked!
Thank god more people don’t come out west to buy used cars, because it’s worth it! But there would be no used cars left for us locals here!

Click to expand...

it would be kinda wasteful to go bring one of those here
it would be murder ;(
Unlesss you kept up on it, Wintertime its truly not hard to keep vehicles clean here you jsut gotta use a car wash at least weekly

AuroraGirl said:

it would be kinda wasteful to go bring one of those here
it would be murder ;(
Unlesss you kept up on it, Wintertime its truly not hard to keep vehicles clean here you jsut gotta use a car wash at least weekly

Click to expand...

You have waste oil, get a hudson sprayer and coat the undercarriage

DoubleDingo said:

You have waste oil, get a hudson sprayer and coat the undercarriage

Click to expand...

yes, ive been thinking of that. is that something youd want to cut it with anything or just straight out of the barrel?
also spraying on the rust thats there wouldnt be bad, right?

POR 15?

AuroraGirl said:

You must be registered for see images attach

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Forgot to update. I had an OK trip, but I am really lucky because the rust on my gmt800 factory hitch was fatal and i just made it home before it failed completely. The thing about it is that the chain hooks are attached to the same point, it would have been a runaway trailer!

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Im not too worried, but i am bummed. Im just glad it happened with the least dangerous/nothing to lose load possible, and it wasnt stressed on the road because of weight. The bumper I knew was getting bad, it was squishy to step on, but the trailer hitch was hidden just behind it

I am going to replace the bumper and the hitch, curt and others make solid square tubing aftermarket ones, the oem one is defintiely a weight reduction type situation but if i found a good one from gmt800-900 i could use it. I also could use a gmt800-900 bumper Im pretty sure.
when I do that, Im gonna do the rear cross member which is large but its sold new and its the spare tire crossmember AND it contains the driver side shock-mount
TO do so requires lifting the bed up, but thats a good time to stop rust on the frame and the springs and axle, gonna shoot for next summer to do this

Click to expand...

FYI you are supposed to crisscross the safety chains,under tge trailer tongue. Trailer right side chain to vehicle left side and vice versa. 2 things going on there, if the hitch comes off the ball the trailer tongue will land in the X of the chains instead of on the highway, and when you turn the chains stay more equidistant to the truck.

Glad you made it to safety prior to the rust monster attacking. In my youth we cut waste oil with any solvent handy. Diesel, gas, kerosene, fuel oil, or whatever. If you can get it out of a nozzle to apply, you win. when fighting the rust monster.
Eric

Ricko1966 said:

FYI you are supposed to crisscross the safety chains trailer right side chain to vehicle left side and vice versa. 2 things going on there, if the hitch comes off the ball the trailer tongue will land in the X of the chains instead of on the highway, and when you turn the chains stay more equidistant to the truck.

Click to expand...

I had issues with the chains binding on the ball hitch when crossed (I do know that, thank you) the chains were adjusted to my f150 which has the hooks in a different spot, I Need to give it slack for this setup, I just didnt have the time. But if I had used a less of a drop hitch (but would have slanted my trailer way too much upwardss) it would have worked

If I get a factory receiver ill adjust to the proper length, or ill use safety chains with hooks on both ends to set a custom length for the application if it needs it

I also would Like to put hooks on the chains which have safety-catches so that the chains couldnt slip off easily

Radiohead said:

POR 15?

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For when I do things proper yeah that would be good

I also noticed that the trailer wiring or my truck have issues, if I use the turn signal after braking, the turn signal would stop and just stay lit , but if I turn signal ,then brake, then it would blink. Ive not had that with my other trailer, but I thought this was weird. one 1157 bulb added to each side shouldnt cause that much resistance to be wacky, youd think

Esp sine the truck has a module that handles the brake lights not just straight off the switch, but the turn signals i think are off a electronic flasher module, but I could be wrong.
I did modify the headlights to no longer switch back to the sidemarker, because the circuit for the sidemarker had voltage on both sides of the 194. I think, based on my diagnosis, the culprit was the mulifunction switch (on the column), but I dont have a spare unless I hack up my park avenue column, and I Dont want to do that, and its costly enough I decided to just run a permanent ground to the "switchback" side of the bulb, so that they light up in the front without flashing with the turns. The rear sidemarkers dont have this function so they were left alone. The reason I suspect the MFS is the voltage was about 3v and it was not caused by any wire near the others, and pulling the turn signal LEFT or RIGHT fuse would remove the suspect voltage.

I doubt that effects the brakes/turns for the trailer, esp since the feed for the turns is split, but maybe its pointing to an internally defective MFS

Or maybe the ground of the trailer is poor?