What have you done to your square lately??

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Grit dog

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Looks like the front side of the drivers windowpane is totally outside the felt track. I would say that is likely what is stopping it from gliding all the way up. I suppose it has been that way the whole time I have owned it and I didn't realize. Does anyone have a trick to get the felt on to the outside of the glass? Or, I guess, has this happened to any of you all? @Rustisbest I have put lithium grease on the tracks, rollers and moving parts on the regulator. I need to get something for the felt track. I may be getting the Du Pont chain lube you reccomend or some type of air spray lube I have seen before.
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That’d definitely make the winders harder to roll up I think.
I don’t have much experience but when I redid the blue truck and installed new window channel felt I threaded it in down the track with the window mostly down as I recall. I did run the window up n down as I was installing it to be able to get it in. (I never removed the windows or regulators from the truck when I painted it.)
Lots of silicone spray lube was used between the track and felt and the window and felt. I wouldn’t use anything petroleum based. There’s tons of different brand products out there.
Are your window felts old and crusty at all? $60 gets you new felt surrounds and the inside and outside rubber squeegees at the bottom of the window openings. I’d consider replacing if they look anywhere near being original. Mine came out in 69 small pieces even. Yours may not hold up to much pulling and bending etc.
 

JamesSam

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That’d definitely make the winders harder to roll up I think.
I don’t have much experience but when I redid the blue truck and installed new window channel felt I threaded it in down the track with the window mostly down as I recall. I did run the window up n down as I was installing it to be able to get it in. (I never removed the windows or regulators from the truck when I painted it.)
Lots of silicone spray lube was used between the track and felt and the window and felt. I wouldn’t use anything petroleum based. There’s tons of different brand products out there.
Are your window felts old and crusty at all? $60 gets you new felt surrounds and the inside and outside rubber squeegees at the bottom of the window openings. I’d consider replacing if they look anywhere near being original. Mine came out in 69 small pieces even. Yours may not hold up to much pulling and bending etc.
@Grit dog where did you get your window felt kit?
 

Grit dog

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@Grit dog where did you get your window felt kit?
I got all the trim stuff thru The Truck Shop (Car and Truck Shop?). Seemed to be the best deal at the time when I was ordering a bunch of stuff. But there are a bunch of suppliers. All the usual places like LMC and some other parts houses.
 

JamesSam

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I got all the trim stuff thru The Truck Shop (Car and Truck Shop?). Seemed to be the best deal at the time when I was ordering a bunch of stuff. But there are a bunch of suppliers. All the usual places like LMC and some other parts houses.
I have ordered through both. I will see what's what.
 

ChuckN

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@JamesSam, @Soundmound mentioned this guy in another thread a while back. I met him in person at the C10s On the Capital show- nice guy. You could send him a message if you’re on the Facespace, apparently he deals in Precision felts which is supposed to be good stuff and it’s who I’m going through when I do mine.
 

bucket

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I am definitely going to take a look next time I'm in there but I think my tracks are pretty steady. I'm scouring the interweb and trying to brainstom what plastic wedge like tool or plier I could use to get the felt over the side of the window edge and not scratch the glass.

You will need to pull the door panel back off, with the window lowered down all the way. Then remove the bolt that holds the lower rear window track in place. Then you can slide the glass rearward enough to get it wiggled back into the felt on the front track. Then reinstall the rearward track, making sure it is adjusted forward enough that the window can't come back out of the front track.

Basically, the window is supposed to be trapped between the front and rear track. The front one is just where it is, while the rear one is removable and adjustable too. Also, that rear track is known to have the lower mounting bracket break off of it. It is possible to repair it without welding. Just careful placement of a couple 1/8" holes and a couple #8 philips screws can put it back together.
 

Goldie Driver

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Did an accidental battery test as I went out this morning and noticed the dome light was on. From ... last... night ....when I fired her up in the driveway. :eek:

Started right up this morning, though, so I guess it passed the test!
 
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JamesSam

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Last night I picked up a plastic wedge set for trim from O'REILLY's. Today I pulled the tarp back enough to check out the door. The tracks are all solid in place. I pulled out one of the plastic wedge/pry bars and pushed down and around on the front felt/track and got a little lip of it over the other side of the glass. I pushed the switch and the window went all the way up easily now that it was in the track. I rolled it up and down several times to make sure it stayed in place, then dry lubed both window channels. I feel like the dad in Christmas Story when he got his major award delivered. Too bad it's raining here for the rest of the week.

Thanks all for talking me through my tears. Next I am talking to my garage about the AC compressor.
 

Grit dog

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@JamesSam, @Soundmound mentioned this guy in another thread a while back. I met him in person at the C10s On the Capital show- nice guy. You could send him a message if you’re on the Facespace, apparently he deals in Precision felts which is supposed to be good stuff and it’s who I’m going through when I do mine.
Ordered wing window gaskets from him. Competitive price and quick shipping. And supporting a local guy.
 

Oldbear42

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I finished installing my vintage auction find, an original bush guard. It required fabbing a new mount as one was poorly repaired years ago. The grill guard has signs of a tough life.
 

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WFarm

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Removed, disassembled and refinished the center console. Never paid much attention to it and was surprised to learn that the lid, cup holder and about half the body is cast metal and has some heft to it. The very bottom piece that bolts to the floor brackets is fiberglass.

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Ajax19

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Finally getting around to doing the rear u joints and carrier bearing first off one of the 1350x joints I ordered was wrong and I tried to modify a 3 jaw puller but it didn't work so I just overnighted a bearing splitter to hopefully save my self from having to cut the old bearing off lol
 

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justhorns

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Fixed my brakes without actually touching them. I had a problem with High speed braking (in rush hour traffic that jams up suddenly. Hit the brakes and the rear end would try to come around. My truck is a 250-6 manual with manual not assisted brakes. Long bed, and usually empty.

I had a slightly bent rear axle (from an accident in 2005, by previous owner). When I replaced it... I pulled the axle out of the brakes, replaced bearing and seal, and slid new axle in. Only had to slide the drum off, and then reinstall. Never touched the brakes.

Now, Braking is solid and truck responds amazingly well considering how light the tail is under braking.
That little bit of wobble in the axle was pushing the brake pads on the one side back in. So when I hit brakes suddenly, the left would grab first..
 

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WFarm

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Removed the inner fenders for cleanup and detailing. Also provides access to rust-prone areas. Didn’t find rust but applied some POR15 in spots. Also replaced spark plugs as they were super easy to get to with inner fenders off.

Not real happy with the inner fender appearance even after sand blasting but I’ll live with it. For a while......

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