Best way to run power from truck battery to trailer winch. Quick disconnect ends.

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Nasty-LSX

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Or would this be a bad idea because of current drop being the cables would be so long?

Old pic, but so you get the idea. what is the best way to run cables from the battery in the truck all the way to the trailer winch?
I keep a battery in the storage box but they dont last like they used to. Once you let them run down a few times, they dont hold a charge afterwards. I would also like to use the quick disconnect connectors. What cables to use. Thanks all!
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Radiohead

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Nasty-LSX said:
Does this seem like the right kit? or should I build my own?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P2H6VCQ/
Click to expand...
Without knowing pricing for the necessary materials, that may be a good price. I run something just like it only smaller, called Anderson Power Pole for my bacon radio. It is very similar to the connector for an electric forklift battery. Like what you have here. Just keep it tight up and away from heat and spinny things under there and you should be ok. I consider an electric outlet in the rear to hook up to a winch mounted to a 2" tow stinger a nifty idea. Especially if you have a 2" receiver up front too, with another socket for the winch pigtail to go to just like out back. Oooh, ideas....
 
Nasty-LSX

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Radiohead said:
Without knowing pricing for the necessary materials, that may be a good price. I run something just like it only smaller, called Anderson Power Pole for my bacon radio. It is very similar to the connector for an electric forklift battery. Like what you have here. Just keep it tight up and away from heat and spinny things under there and you should be ok. I consider an electric outlet in the rear to hook up to a winch mounted to a 2" tow stinger a nifty idea. Especially if you have a 2" receiver up front too, with another socket for the winch pigtail to go to just like out back. Oooh, ideas....
Click to expand...
Exactly. Im not looking for a BUDGET set up. I want it with all the right parts and wire gauge and quick disconnects in the rear!! :happy160:
 
Radiohead

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While what's in the ad is shiny purty I notice they are quick to call out feet length but quiet about AWG of said length wire. If I wanted indestructible, I would find an unwanted welders lead or cable of that quality and go buy me the forklift plug-ins at probably any electrical supply or auto parts maybe. An Internet query should net the proper sized unit in short order and the rest is stuff found in most hardware/auto stores. That's the tack I would take
 
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I think I used batterycables.com. I'll have to check. Good quality true gauge. No copper coated aluminum or any of that crap. You should use Anderson quick connects is what you want, which that website also has, their 3m cable heat shrink is fantastic stuff.

It may not be correct but I'm going to run 2/0 for my quick connect, like the rest of my charging system, but I have lights and sounds system and whatnot. I have the same plan for a receiver hitch winch that will also go on the trailer.

A winch is a SUPER bad power draw. An alt upgrade may be somewhat necessary.
 
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Rickf said:
I put a separate battery on the trailer for the winch and an isolator off of the truck's battery to keep it charged.
Click to expand...
This is the way to do it.
They have two different dump bed trailers where I work, the dump beds are hydraulic pump powered. There is a big group 31 deep cycle battery and small battery charger/tender mounted along side the hydraulic pump. It’s a very nice setup, it isn’t home made. You just have to keep it plugged in periodically.
 
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Something like this and byor (buy your own wire).

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There’s pre-made winch cable kits as well. Presumably rated for the amp draw.
While it’s advisable to have the source nearer the load, ie, battery(s) on the trailer, for a seldom used device I can see the value of not having to maintain the extra battery(s) on the trailer.
Wish you were closer, I’d give you a new isolator and all the wiring for a 2nd under hood battery.
PO of the ‘77 C10 spent stupid $ to get it setup to power the old truck camper that his grampa originally had on the truck,just a couple years ago during Covid.
And then they used the camper like twice. He could rented a little tow behind for less money than he dumped into upgrades to the truck.
Anyway, I’d strongly consider an extra battery under hood whether you wire it up as a house only or added start battery.
You can calc the wire size needed for the winch. Look up the amp draw of the winch and use a wire size calculator. It’ll be substantial and the wire won’t be cheap. Likely 1/0 wire give r take a size.
 
Nasty-LSX

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Rickf said:
I put a separate battery on the trailer for the winch and an isolator off of the truck's battery to keep it charged.
Click to expand...
Ok stupid question. What do you mean by isolator off the trucks battery? Thanks.
 
Nasty-LSX

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Grit dog said:
Something like this and byor (buy your own wire).

You must be registered for see images attach

There’s pre-made winch cable kits as well. Presumably rated for the amp draw.
While it’s advisable to have the source nearer the load, ie, battery(s) on the trailer, for a seldom used device I can see the value of not having to maintain the extra battery(s) on the trailer.
Wish you were closer, I’d give you a new isolator and all the wiring for a 2nd under hood battery.
PO of the ‘77 C10 spent stupid $ to get it setup to power the old truck camper that his grampa originally had on the truck,just a couple years ago during Covid.
And then they used the camper like twice. He could rented a little tow behind for less money than he dumped into upgrades to the truck.
Anyway, I’d strongly consider an extra battery under hood whether you wire it up as a house only or added start battery.
You can calc the wire size needed for the winch. Look up the amp draw of the winch and use a wire size calculator. It’ll be substantial and the wire won’t be cheap. Likely 1/0 wire give r take a size.
Click to expand...
Thanks grit dog!!
 
Grit dog

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Nasty-LSX said:
Ok stupid question. What do you mean by isolator off the trucks battery? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Look up battery isolator or charging relay. There are many different types. Basic function is to allow the vehicle to charge the aux/house battery but not let the house/aux load discharge your start battery.
 
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If you want to wire a separate charge controller for a separate battery let me know it's stupid easy and about 10.00 in parts. Same thing I told @wanderinthru through how to do a couple of years back. As for running power to the rear of the vehicle,you actually only need to run 1 wire a 12v to the truck battery. Make sure the truck battery is grounded to the frame. Pickup the ground for the winch at the rear of the truck frame. The truck frame can carry,way more amperage than the wires you are looking at buying. And it saves the expense of the second wire. Those are the reasons the auto manufacturers use the frame/body as ground instead of homerun everything to the battery, cheaper,lighter,easier,and can pull more amperage.
If you are using standard automotive batteries,not deep cycles on the trailer,that is why they are not lasting.
 
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Nasty-LSX

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Ricko1966 said:
If you want to wire a separate charge controller for a separate battery let me know it's stupid easy and about 10.00 8n parts. Same thing I told @wanderinthru through how to do a couple of years back. As for running power to the rear if the vehicle,you actually only need to run 1 wire a 12v to the truck battery. Make sure the truck battery is grounded to the frame. Pickup the ground for the winch at the rear of the truck frame. The truck frame can carry,way more amperage than the wires you are looking at buying. And it saves the expense of the second wire. Those are the reasons the auto manufacturers use the frame/body as ground instead of homerun everything to the battery, cheaper,lighter,easier,and can pull more amperage.
If you are using standard automotive batteries,not deep cycles on the trailer,that is why they are not lasting.
Click to expand...
Great info! :happy160: yea, I was not buying deep cycle. I really dont have a way to keep the battery charged
on the trailer either. I use it maybe a couple times a year. Thats why I thought this would be a good idea.
I bought a WARN 12k winch for it. Its awesome.
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How often do you pull the trailer,vs. how often do you use the winch. This is important, if you pull the trailer often but use the winch rarely a cheap charge control relay, 2 wires to the trailer and it will charge the trailer battery at approx. 15A when the truck is running. If you use the winch seldom,this would be a good option 10 trips charging the battery 1 trip draining the battery,I'd still want deep cycle. Otherwise I'd just buy a deep cycle and a battery charger. You don't want to drain the truck battery working the winch or kill your alternator working the winch.
 
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