TotalyHucked
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2020
- Posts
- 3,573
- Reaction score
- 11,489
- Location
- Auburn, Georgia
- First Name
- Zach
- Truck Year
- 1985
- Truck Model
- Sierra 1500
- Engine Size
- 5.3
You've got this!
What have you done to your square lately??
- Thread starter Old77
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
DoubleDingo
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2012
- Posts
- 11,217
- Reaction score
- 17,045
- Location
- Right where I am
- First Name
- Bagoomba
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- 81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s
- Engine Size
- Carb'ed Vortec 350
Tic-toc-tic-toc-tic-toc
1976dully
Junior Member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2023
- Posts
- 15
- Reaction score
- 48
- Location
- Kansas City MO
- First Name
- Eric
- Truck Year
- 1976
- Truck Model
- C30
- Engine Size
- 5.3
Pulled the door panel on the driver's side, cleaned the gunk out, lubed the regulator, latch, and everything else. Installed new key cylinder and armrest pad. Works like a new one.
Replaced the fuel pump, filter, and regulator. Hopefully the dam thing will drive, so I can get on with everything else.
Oh, and found a fixable set of rear dually fenders, then last week found an almost perfect set and got them too. Had a good road trip and got my father in law to ride along. Great day, and got a good line for more parts if I need them.
Replaced the fuel pump, filter, and regulator. Hopefully the dam thing will drive, so I can get on with everything else.
Oh, and found a fixable set of rear dually fenders, then last week found an almost perfect set and got them too. Had a good road trip and got my father in law to ride along. Great day, and got a good line for more parts if I need them.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2020
- Posts
- 327
- Reaction score
- 718
- Location
- Easley sc
- First Name
- Jeff
- Truck Year
- 1985
- Truck Model
- K10
- Engine Size
- 350
Grit dog
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2020
- Posts
- 6,911
- Reaction score
- 12,114
- Location
- Auburn, Washington
- First Name
- Todd
- Truck Year
- 1986, 1977
- Truck Model
- K20, C10
- Engine Size
- 454, 350
Ouch!You must be registered for see images attachLatest thing I did to my truck
Not on purpose of course! Too much birch firewood on a rather “rough” forestry road and this is what you get I guess.
Wish me luck on getting the bolt out of the leaf eye!!
Codfish
Well it looks well undercoated and protected. Hopefully you’re pleasantly surprised.
Barring an easy removal, it may be easier to just unhook the whole leaf pack and shackle as you can drive the bottom shackle bolt out.
ChuckN
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2022
- Posts
- 1,290
- Reaction score
- 3,895
- Location
- Bellinham, WA
- First Name
- Chad
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 350
Put a new set of Cooper Cobras on the rear (bald) and had the wheels powder coated but lost the receipts…nope, just a quick spray of Argent Silver before throwing it back together.
You must be registered for see images attach
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2010
- Posts
- 10,297
- Reaction score
- 10,077
- Location
- North East Texas
- First Name
- Shawn
- Truck Year
- 1982 & 1985
- Truck Model
- K10 Extra Cab w/ Proper SWB, & 85 K5 Blazer
- Engine Size
- 454 BBC, & 383 Stroker
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2010
- Posts
- 30,376
- Reaction score
- 28,108
- Location
- Usually not in Ohio
- First Name
- Andy
- Truck Year
- '77, '78, '79, '84, '88
- Truck Model
- K5 thru K30
- Engine Size
- 350-454
Just the rear was bald, eh? That means you drive the truck in a proper fashion.
williestreet
Junior Member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2023
- Posts
- 17
- Reaction score
- 83
- Location
- Halifax, Nova Scotia
- First Name
- John
- Truck Year
- 1980
- Truck Model
- 1500
- Engine Size
- 305
When I bought this truck it had a bit of a stinkbug stance. Over the winter it got new rear leaf springs which didn't help the situation.
Tonight I finished putting some longer shackles to help reduce the gap in the rear wheel wells and level the truck out.
The shackles on the truck were 3-1/2 inches which I question if they were the correct length. The new shackles are 6-5/8" centre to centre.
This resulted in a 1-1/4" drop at the wheel wells and 1-7/8" drop at the trailer hitch.
Not a huge difference in measurement but that little change really looks better to me.
I have a set of the heavier 454 front coils sitting on the shelf that I need to get on at some point. I figure it will be pretty level at that point.
Before and after pics.
Tonight I finished putting some longer shackles to help reduce the gap in the rear wheel wells and level the truck out.
The shackles on the truck were 3-1/2 inches which I question if they were the correct length. The new shackles are 6-5/8" centre to centre.
This resulted in a 1-1/4" drop at the wheel wells and 1-7/8" drop at the trailer hitch.
Not a huge difference in measurement but that little change really looks better to me.
I have a set of the heavier 454 front coils sitting on the shelf that I need to get on at some point. I figure it will be pretty level at that point.
Before and after pics.
Attachments
shelly
Junior Member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2024
- Posts
- 14
- Reaction score
- 30
- Location
- Missouri, USA
- First Name
- Jonathan
- Truck Year
- 87
- Truck Model
- R30 crew cab single wheel
- Engine Size
- TBI 350
Goldie Driver
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2018
- Posts
- 4,037
- Reaction score
- 6,620
- Location
- Houston, Texas
- First Name
- Britt
- Truck Year
- 1980
- Truck Model
- GMC K1500 Suburban
- Engine Size
- 350
Compliments of a tech at my work, we evacuated and recharged the ac in Goldie. Crazy, but only pulled like 2.5 lbs out and put in 4.5 of the same R134.
R12 sticker called for 5.25 lbs.
Funny thing is that I can't tell it blows any colder ...
High side around 250, low around 70.
I don't get it.
Bad condenser, maybe ?
Receiver sweats a lot more now.
R12 sticker called for 5.25 lbs.
Funny thing is that I can't tell it blows any colder ...
High side around 250, low around 70.
I don't get it.
Bad condenser, maybe ?
Receiver sweats a lot more now.
- Joined
- Nov 8, 2023
- Posts
- 113
- Reaction score
- 459
- Location
- Kalispell, Montana
- First Name
- Larry
- Truck Year
- 1981
- Truck Model
- C10
- Engine Size
- 250 6 cylinder
I installed the LMC headlight relay kit today in my '81 C10 6 cylinder. I spent about 5 hours working without hurrying, pretty easy job. And best of all, it actually worked correctly as intended with no troubles on the first try!
What this accomplishes is to remove the electrical load (current draw) of the low/high beam headlights from the headlight switch and low/high beam foot switch. These stock items become the control system selector devices for two 30-amp power relays mounted on the inner fender. These relays send direct battery power to the low/high headlamps when activated. This system will have less voltage drop to the headlights, making them brighter. Also the dash switch will now have much less current passing through its headlight contacts.
Quality seems to be good, and I am satisfied. Notes: You can install the relays on drivers or passengers side, but passengers side is probably easiest if you only have the stock battery. You can remove the entire stock headlight wiring from the split loom that goes between both headlight and stuff in the new harness wires if desired. But I decided it was too much work and zip tied the new harness alongside the stock split loom.
The wiring diagram on the package:
Since my headlight sockets were brittle and crumbling, I spliced two rubber covered 90-degree headlight connectors onto the LMC harness, I like these alot despite the wire color mismatch with the harness:
I also deleted the LMC harness headlight male plug and butt spliced the low beam and high beam signal wires directly to the appropriate relay control wire. Everything gets hidden in front of my dual batteries and the two relays are mounted to the inner fender next to the stock battery, no clearance issues.
Drivers side:
Passengers side where most of the wiring is performed:
The two red wires on the right are the main power wires that go to the battery. I did attach them directly to the battery positive post temporarily while I get the auxiliary fuse block installed. The aux fuse block will be used for low beams, high beams, fog lights, bed light etc.
On to the next project.
What this accomplishes is to remove the electrical load (current draw) of the low/high beam headlights from the headlight switch and low/high beam foot switch. These stock items become the control system selector devices for two 30-amp power relays mounted on the inner fender. These relays send direct battery power to the low/high headlamps when activated. This system will have less voltage drop to the headlights, making them brighter. Also the dash switch will now have much less current passing through its headlight contacts.
Quality seems to be good, and I am satisfied. Notes: You can install the relays on drivers or passengers side, but passengers side is probably easiest if you only have the stock battery. You can remove the entire stock headlight wiring from the split loom that goes between both headlight and stuff in the new harness wires if desired. But I decided it was too much work and zip tied the new harness alongside the stock split loom.
You must be registered for see images attach
The wiring diagram on the package:
You must be registered for see images attach
Since my headlight sockets were brittle and crumbling, I spliced two rubber covered 90-degree headlight connectors onto the LMC harness, I like these alot despite the wire color mismatch with the harness:
You must be registered for see images attach
I also deleted the LMC harness headlight male plug and butt spliced the low beam and high beam signal wires directly to the appropriate relay control wire. Everything gets hidden in front of my dual batteries and the two relays are mounted to the inner fender next to the stock battery, no clearance issues.
Drivers side:
You must be registered for see images attach
Passengers side where most of the wiring is performed:
You must be registered for see images attach
The two red wires on the right are the main power wires that go to the battery. I did attach them directly to the battery positive post temporarily while I get the auxiliary fuse block installed. The aux fuse block will be used for low beams, high beams, fog lights, bed light etc.
On to the next project.
Grit dog
Full Access Member
- Joined
- May 18, 2020
- Posts
- 6,911
- Reaction score
- 12,114
- Location
- Auburn, Washington
- First Name
- Todd
- Truck Year
- 1986, 1977
- Truck Model
- K20, C10
- Engine Size
- 454, 350
Awesome.
Cooper Cobras bring back high school hot rod memories. Lol
Had a set of 275 60 15s on my Impala.
And a set of 33 12.50 Cooper Discoverers on my Blazer plow truck!
A long long time ago
mlsceo
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2022
- Posts
- 385
- Reaction score
- 1,145
- Location
- Kingsburg California
- First Name
- Manuel
- Truck Year
- 1977
- Truck Model
- c10
- Engine Size
- 350
New a/c compressor and discharge line. Icy cold now. New plug wires, u joints. Re-installed Q-jet after rebuild. New tranny vacuum modulator, dist. cap and rotor.
New belts and hoses. Bob is all freshened up and running like a champ.
New belts and hoses. Bob is all freshened up and running like a champ.
Last edited:
Similar threads
