Terrible gap

Here's some pics of the gap on passenger side between the hood and fender on my 79. I'm thinking the passenger fender has been bent out but wanted opinions from others so I'm not missing something. I was getting frustrated trying to make the gaps all over look a little better and noticed this. I know I need paint but i'm broke so it's baby steps for now.

Last one, driver side

You need to make sure everything is square on the front starting with the core support, from there match up the other panels. Be sure to have body shims to make slight adjustments, take your time and take a break if you get frustrated. Square it up by confirming the corner to corner measurements are nearly identical.

Are there any body shims you can pull out? I built my truck with panels from the parts bin. I had to get creative with body shims to get somewhat close gaps.

Areas in the rear upper corners of the fenders, pry bar, hammer and block of wood are your friend.

Are all the shims out at the rear upper mounting? There shouldn't be any shims where the core support meets the fender but if there's no shims to take out in the rear adding some shims to the front will get it closer.

I haven't installed any aftermarket fenders in a while but fit used to be an issue. Do you know if these are all GM parts?

I'm pretty sure they are the original fenders, I see areas of red that match the areas of red on the cab. I ended up putting a long (about 4 foot) level on the upper edge of both fenders and there is a big difference... the level actually rocks in the passenger fender and lays pretty flat on drivers fender. By the way there are only shims at the upper mount that hides behind the door, without them the panel sits too deep and does not match the door at all.

Keep in mind good panel fit at GM was a suggestion. Compared to today's vehicles it was horrible. Have to bend, shim, and accept lesser of the evils. No 2 panels were ever the same. Fenders are wider in back shims need to come out. A pry bar will work to modify the rear upper fender corner. That would be less noticeable than a bad hood fit.

Any offshore parts........... good luck.

Regardless of how panel gaps on these trucks are rarely “perfect”, that truck is not normal. Stuff is racked, bowed, and/or crooked.

I agree with grit dog, my truck has been molested. I'm finding a lot of things were done poorly. Thanks for the replies everyone

After looking at it closer I think the top of the passenger fender was "rolled out" for lack of better words. I think the previous owner didn't realize it or didn't care and left it with that gap.

Looking at your pictures, it definitely looks like your pass fender needs to come in toward the hood and maybe down just a hair. You'll likely need to adjust your door inward to match

Shorty81 said:

Are there any body shims you can pull out? I built my truck with panels from the parts bin. I had to get creative with body shims to get somewhat close gaps.

Click to expand...

There should be shims here, here and here.

K

fast 99 said:

Keep in mind good panel fit at GM was a suggestion. Compared to today's vehicles it was horrible. Have to bend, shim, and accept lesser of the evils. No 2 panels were ever the same. Fenders are wider in back shims need to come out. A pry bar will work to modify the rear upper fender corner. That would be less noticeable than a bad hood fit.

Any offshore parts........... good luck.

Click to expand...

Here's how we did it:

"Quote=Keith Seymore

What we used to do for fender shims is tape a packet together, like 3 shims, and we would run those all day whether the truck we were currently building needed it or not.

Eventually the final repair supervisor would call back and say something encouraging, like "SEYMORE!! YOU IDIOT!! WTH ARE YOU THINKING?!?! ALL THESE FENDERS ARE RUNNING HIGH!! ARE YOU EVEN LOOKING AT THESE TRUCKS?!? TAKE A SHIM OUT BEFORE I COME BACK THERE AND SHOW YOU HOW TO DO THIS!!" I can just imagine the spittle flying into the phone mouthpiece.

So we would start running a new shim pack, like 2 shims, until he called again with his latest observation.

Basically it was to address "macro trends". You had about 45 seconds to complete the truck in front of you and move to the next one; that's not enough time to fit and re-fit each individual truck."

Also -

"This technique would get you close on the majority of vehicles.

There was a repair station at the end of my area. There was also a short moving repair line (two, actually) at the end of final line. If they could fix them there while on the move then they would; otherwise it would be out to a stationary repair stall in "heavy repair" for the really bad ones.

I should add that some of the repairs did not consist of removing the bolt or adding/deleting shims. Often the repair consisted of bending, twisting or hammering while the line was moving."

K

Keith, I love reading your posts about real life on the line! Thank you for taking the time to write these! If you ever write a book…….

curse said:

After looking at it closer I think the top of the passenger fender was "rolled out" for lack of better words. I think the previous owner didn't realize it or didn't care and left it with that gap.

Click to expand...

From your comment about the level on the pass fender and the weird shaped “shine” in the gap2 photo, truck looks like it may have taken a front end hit, worse on the right(passenger) side.
Thst passenger fender appears to have a smile (or frown) in it where it should be straight faced.