V2500 frame compatibility and advice.

[Ricko1966]

Front driver shackle was twisted and after jacking it up on the body mount the frame twists and it flexes the shackle back to almost normal. Previous owner welded a plate on the top frame rail behind the shock mount so this is already tricky. Seems the frame is bent and it twists/flexes. Thinking of replacing the front section of frame, from the bumper to past driver door. Please share your thoughts on this. Does anyone know what other frames would work? This is 89 v2500, it is very difficult to get solid answers on this. Thanks!

There's a guy just posted as an introduction. He has a 1990 v2500 that needs to be sold for parts or parted out. See what you guys can work out.

 

[Strick]

I have a very good 91 V1500 Sub body & chassis if you're interested. There should be no frame difference between the 1500 & 2500 & if so it's minimal.

HS

 

[Ricko1966]

I have a very good 91 V1500 Sub body & chassis if you're interested. There should be no frame difference between the 1500 & 2500 & if so it's minimal.

HS

There's a fairly significant difference in frame rail thickness,that's why I didn't suggest a V1500 to the O.P. earlier.Since he already had a problem,I didn't think he'd like the idea of a thinner frame. The guy with the burnt V2500 might be a player. I'll see if I can find frame specs. I've got them somewhere,just a matter of finding then. Found it,it's 1/64th difference in thickness.

 

[Strick]

Yeah, if I were changing out an entire frame I'd want an upgrade instead of downgrade. Thanks for the chart info.

HS

 

[Ricko1966]

Yeah, if I were changing out an entire frame I'd want an upgrade instead of downgrade. Thanks for the chart info.

HS

Still that guy in the intro section,that has a burnt v2500. Maybe a player on a decent body and interior.

 

[Strick]

The OP sure lost out with the fire for sure. Maybe they'll get together like you said & get one working truck out of the mess.

HS

 

[Grit dog]

Yeah, if I were changing out an entire frame I'd want an upgrade instead of downgrade. Thanks for the chart info.

HS

Agreed, but unless the OP is making a wheeler or planning on hauling really heavy cargo loads frequently, a solid 1/2 ton frame will serve the same purpose. Give. The choice apples to apples yes, upgrade.
Long distance purchase or have to do a bunch more work on the donor I wouldn’t be afraid to use a 1/2 ton frame in the name of saving a bunch of time and or money. They worked fine for millions of half ton squares. And my 77 C10 spent most of its former life with a sizable truck camper in it and purportedly most of its road miles were with the camper.
OP, I have not done a frame swap, but I would consider it in the right scenario. IMO, if you can cut and splice a frame or R&R an engine, a frame swap is doable. Having the room to do it and having a solid jacking and cribbing plan are the 2 big precursors to making it work.
The rest is keep removing stuff until one part is free from the other.
Organization of hardware and labeling is key.
While I didn’t remove the cab on the 86, when I tore it down for paint, I bagged and tagged all the hardware removed. Took a couple three dozen sandwich bags but re-assembling a year later was a piece of cake.

 

[Strick]

I'm putting my 76 High Sierra 15 back together again. I thought about using a CUCV frame that I have but after a bit of thought I realized what kind of punishment & abuse the 76 endured as a plain ole half ton. I'm keeping it Dana44 & 12bolt half ton but swapping in the beloved SM465 and NP205 instead of the TH350 and NP203. That should hold up for me until one of the Grand or Great-Grands decide they want it.

HS