Zero Rates on the Front Axle

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Grit dog

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For anyone wondering, 35-12.50s on a 9” wide wheel with a 3.5” backspace don’t fit on a K20 with a 4” lift….lol.
I knew it would be close and the type of tires didn’t help but the additional neg offset of about 1.5” compared to the 8” wide 4” bs wheels killed it. Only took one full lock right turn to rip the fender well trim off!
So, not interested in going 6” lift, for reasons. Cost and won’t fit in the attached garage being the 2 deal killers.
So I’m gonna get an ORD 1” zero rate. It obviously won’t provide enough clearance for any real wheelin. But will make it daily drive-able and preserve enough of the rake that it doesn’t look low in back. And I bought the shocks long enough to accommodate already when those went on.
No real questions.
More of a PSA on “what doesn’t fit on what.”

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And hindsight being 20/20, I fixed both bottom corners on the front fenders from previous tire damage. And I really considered clearancing the back corners when I was doing the bodywork. But lack of time persuaded me to just make them straight and factory again.
 

TotalyHucked

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Whoopsie lol. Hopefully all it did was rip the trim off. The zero-rate basically moved the front axle forward a touch, correct?
 

Grit dog

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No damage. Coincidentally the passenger side is about 1/4” closer to the fender than the drivers side.
It adds an inch of lift and bolts into the leaf pack. Can set it up to move axle forward as well 1” or 1.5”.
 

Bennyt

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Loving the truck with those wheels!

I put the zerorates on my K5 when I had it. I liked that it had a larger contact surface then the leaf spring alone on the pad on the pumpkin. Without them, on some springs, there is very, very small gap at the front and rear edge of the pad that is eliminated with the zero's which prevents any rocking of the housing, if that makes sense.
 

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Maybe its just me, but I see these everyday on my drive home, usually from behind doing 5 mpg on a two lane road flinging mud to hell and back.
 

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Grit dog

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Maybe its just me, but I see these everyday on my drive home, usually from behind doing 5 mpg on a two lane road flinging mud to hell and back.
Well that was my goal….
Also keep it upright in a tornado since they’re also obnoxiously heavy.
Glad you like ‘em!
 

77 K20

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I thought moving the axle forward doesn't allow you to run a sway bar... or did you already remove yours?
 

Grit dog

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I thought moving the axle forward doesn't allow you to run a sway bar... or did you already remove yours?
Correct, the sway bar would not bolt up if the axle was relocated.
At this time I think I just want to go straight up with it and not offset it. If I move it forward an inch it helps the problem but makes it worse on the front lips of the fenders.
It looks like I could fab some offset sway bar mounts fairly easily though if I needed to.
I still have the sway bar and although would maybe like to disconnect it with the stiff springs I got, that too defeats my minimalist plan to just make it daily driveable.
I considered new shackles and an axle offset plate which would give 1/2” lift and could move axle 1/2” or 1” (or 1.5”) forward. And would also get my springs off of binding on the frame under flex, but the “right” bulletproof solution and the “good enough” solution are a ways apart in effort and $.
 

wlwarnke

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I’m running a 4” lift, with 35x12.5x20 on 20x10 -24.

I used 1/4” zero rates and moved the axle 1” forward. I did have to do very minor “persuasion” of the lower front fenders. No more rubbing even while off-roading.

Someone makes sway bar end links. Maybe ORD.

With lifted springs, I’d either use links or remove the sway bar all together. Mine, like most peoples, has been removed.

Due to the way the axle tracks with arched springs (moves front to back during compression) a sway bar without end links make the truck ride way stiffer.

I also removed the bottom leaf while adding the zero rates which softened up the ride even more.
 

Craig 85

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If you still want to run the sway bar I an vouch for the ORD sway bar disconnects. I've run them on the last two trucks. Definitely lefts the bar work separate from the spring.

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Grit dog

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Yeah I like the disconnects.
Not sure what @wlwarnke you mean by end links unless the disconnects.
I went w/ 1” honestly, because it already has about a 3” rake higher in the rear and I can either keep centered or move it forward as well for a little more clearance without having to buy different parts.
Good to know the relocate makes as much difference as claimed.
Plus yes I could easily remove a leaf for less than 1” and softer spring rate.
Still plan on driving it with no sway bar to see how much it improves.
$100 for zero rates and new u bolts and it provides a bunch of options to fine tune with the same basic parts.

And it was the plan all along. Just thought could get by with the new wheels if careful but it’ll hit pretty easy right now. And I’m being a little b!tch about doing any clearancing in the fenders because it’s too new and shiny now. I really should have don’t it before I painted it….
I even bought the shocks a bit on the long side in prep for a little more lift.
And I don’t really want to mess with caster angle at all. Even though new shackles would help the suspension and provide a tiny bit of height. Caster is perfect. Tracks straight but not heavy at all. Steering returns to center very nicely and 90mph is honestly 1 finger driving other than the steering box is a little loosey. Doesn’t want or need more or less caster.
 
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Grit dog

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Are you saying the ORD disconnects/end links will pivot or rotate enough to use the sway bar with axle pushed forward 1” without offsetting the frame mounts forward for the sway bar?
 

Grit dog

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@wlwarnke
If I calculate right, 20x9 3.5 BS is theoretically a -25mm offset. So my Wheels theoretically stick out 1/2” less from the hub. Or 1/2” better in the will it hit the fender category than yours.
Good to know what works on your setup. Thanks!
 

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