Yet Another Powerless Truck Question

[TX87R10]

'87 R10 305 automatic tranny.

Lately I've noticed it was *slightly* more difficult to physically turn over the ignition but not had any problems.

This morning ran fine. Got in to grab some lunch heard the lightest click as if it was going to do something and then nothing. No interior nor headlights, etc...

Tested battery with a multimeter and it looked good. Then the batteries in my multimeter appear to have died and do not have a way to replace them (awesome!)

I have a voltage tester but I am no electrician so not sure if it would actually work in this case to test power. Going to run to the store and buy a better multimeter in a second so wanted to post this first to see if anyone could help a newb.


1. Is the proper way to check for voltage to connect an alligator clip to the negative terminal on the battery and run it to the black probe, and then use the red probe to touch where power is expected? My alligator clip / wire is way to short to reach the other side of the truck so any problem with daisy chaining them?

2. Can anyone give me an idea on how to test the fusible links? I have found plenty of other threads on here identifying where they are but I am trying to be extra careful and not blow anything up or end up in the hospital.

3. Anything else to test besides the fusible links? I checked fuses inside the cab under the steering wheel and everything looked good there.

Sorry I know these questions probably have been answered 100x but I am trying to be extra careful.

 

[AuroraGirl]

'87 R10 305 automatic tranny.

Lately I've noticed it was *slightly* more difficult to physically turn over the ignition but not had any problems.

This morning ran fine. Got in to grab some lunch heard the lightest click as if it was going to do something and then nothing. No interior nor headlights, etc...

Tested battery with a multimeter and it looked good. Then the batteries in my multimeter appear to have died and do not have a way to replace them (awesome!)

I have a voltage tester but I am no electrician so not sure if it would actually work in this case to test power. Going to run to the store and buy a better multimeter in a second so wanted to post this first to see if anyone could help a newb.


1. Is the proper way to check for voltage to connect an alligator clip to the negative terminal on the battery and run it to the black probe, and then use the red probe to touch where power is expected? My alligator clip / wire is way to short to reach the other side of the truck so any problem with daisy chaining them?

2. Can anyone give me an idea on how to test the fusible links? I have found plenty of other threads on here identifying where they are but I am trying to be extra careful and not blow anything up or end up in the hospital.

3. Anything else to test besides the fusible links? I checked fuses inside the cab under the steering wheel and everything looked good there.

Sorry I know these questions probably have been answered 100x but I am trying to be extra careful.

the problem with daisy chaining is youre going to have some voltage drop your meter wont account for and your Only way to read that would be another tester pretty sure because Ideally you would have the battery being tested and then use a another to test from the one end to the other of the single lead string to determine the voltage drop and then other.. or.. wait..

Im gonna say you should not do that.

Whats your meter look like? your meter should have a black lead and a red lead and plug in on the bottom or soemwhere, and it may even indicate that one port is red that your plugged into, and another that has a warning but is also red, then a black plugin spot.
If you Have the two leads connected, turn to the voltage scale and go to 20 if it doesnt autorange (would have less V options prob) and do black to black, red to red on battery. that will show voltage at the battery at that moment. Not very very helpful but its a start.

ALSO if you want a decent multi meter wit hsome cool features go to your harbor freight right now. and get the grey automotive "Testing machine thing"

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

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It has a lot of helpful features. the impedence isnt to the spec gm says your mutli meter should have but... I found that most consumer ones arent anyway so spoiled milk I guess. That has a temp probe, a tachometer function, a Dwell meter, and the traditional functions I mentioned.

found this on an LS thread:
With the engine off and the battery cables connected, if the link is open circuit, when you measure ohms across the wire from the alternator output to the positive terminal of the battery, there will be 12v across your ohmeter. Depending on your ohmeter you will get some unfunny readings. If the fusible link is ok, your ohmeter should read the same as when you touch the two test probes from your ohmeter together. If you get funny readings, disconnect the negative cable from your battery and test the alternator output wire.

Sounds legit to me. Your fusible link still passes current, its just the wire is the limiting device by design I believe they have a heat or be made to a very predictable failure window which is good, fuses arent as that I believe. BBut you should have low resistance before and after and if it has voltage on it and its live(truck running?) you can d oa voltage drop test and it shouldnt be vast different

 

[TX87R10]

the problem with daisy chaining is youre going to have some voltage drop your meter wont account for and your Only way to read that would be another tester pretty sure because Ideally you would have the battery being tested and then use a another to test from the one end to the other of the single lead string to determine the voltage drop and then other.. or.. wait..

Im gonna say you should not do that.

Whats your meter look like? your meter should have a black lead and a red lead and plug in on the bottom or soemwhere, and it may even indicate that one port is red that your plugged into, and another that has a warning but is also red, then a black plugin spot.
If you Have the two leads connected, turn to the voltage scale and go to 20 if it doesnt autorange (would have less V options prob) and do black to black, red to red on battery. that will show voltage at the battery at that moment. Not very very helpful but its a start.

ALSO if you want a decent multi meter wit hsome cool features go to your harbor freight right now. and get the grey automotive "Testing machine thing"

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

You must be registered for see images attach

It has a lot of helpful features. the impedence isnt to the spec gm says your mutli meter should have but... I found that most consumer ones arent anyway so spoiled milk I guess. That has a temp probe, a tachometer function, a Dwell meter, and the traditional functions I mentioned.

found this on an LS thread:
With the engine off and the battery cables connected, if the link is open circuit, when you measure ohms across the wire from the alternator output to the positive terminal of the battery, there will be 12v across your ohmeter. Depending on your ohmeter you will get some unfunny readings. If the fusible link is ok, your ohmeter should read the same as when you touch the two test probes from your ohmeter together. If you get funny readings, disconnect the negative cable from your battery and test the alternator output wire.

Sounds legit to me. Your fusible link still passes current, its just the wire is the limiting device by design I believe they have a heat or be made to a very predictable failure window which is good, fuses arent as that I believe. BBut you should have low resistance before and after and if it has voltage on it and its live(truck running?) you can d oa voltage drop test and it shouldnt be vast different

Yeah I tested the battery that way and it was fine. The problem is wanting to test something under the truck like the alternator where the lead on the alligator clip won't reach the negative terminal.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Yeah I tested the battery that way and it was fine. The problem is wanting to test something under the truck like the alternator where the lead on the alligator clip won't reach the negative terminal.

so if you want to measure out put at the post on the back of the alternator, you can put your positive on it(I would wipe with a rag if oily etc) and then take your other lead and touch any good ground on the engine block, accessories. if you have the ground cable on the bracket, you could hit that. there is a ground on the frame on that side too.

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I believe my big tester takes a 9 volt, but ive seen a 2032 in an array before


also your alternator may be a cs130 instead but it wil have a power stud on the back and that is where power can be measured off the thing, then verify same after the cable run(to the dist block i think?)
anyway, there is something else though. I think you may be dealing with anotehr issue.

You got a battery charger? is yours charged 100%
Think it is ? Go to autozone or the like and have a battery load test and charging system test. See what they say. A battery can have a very good looking voltage and actually be pretty darn useless especially if its older and maybe not like its youth days
wjat was reading on batt

 

[TX87R10]

Yep just took it to AutoZone battery 100% charged

 

[TX87R10]

Lol noticed a little battery acid build up on the terminal of the battery, cleaned it out and it started right up that's grand.

 

[75gmck25]

Based on my experience, the end of the positive battery cable where it connects to the starter is always one of the first places to check, assuming you know the cable is connected tightly to the battery. I doubt anyone regularly crawls under the truck and checks the connection at the starter, and its always exposed to mud and dirt.

 

[DoubleDingo]

At least it started and you may have fixed the problem. I have had batteries go bad before for no reason whatsoever. Started fine to leave for work, go to leave at lunch and it wouldn't crank. Take the battery home (via ride from coworker) and charge it up. Bring it back and same thing, no start. Cranking amps gone, but battery at full charge. Makes no sense to me, but then take it to a battery shop, and they test it, and sure enough the battery is no good but has full charge. Out the door with a fresh one, and no more no-start-issue. I have had this happen twice.

 

[Salty Crusty]

I recently spent about $50 for a battery testing device. It tests voltage, CCA and charging system. I got tired of letting the battery store guy or O'Reilly's check 'em for me.
A regular multimeter can't test CCA, that puts a big load on the battery that a multimeter can't. I can't test 'em more than 1 about every 3-4 minutes because the tester gets hot. No matter, it beats hell out of loading 'em up to haul 'em to get tested.