Would you bore this 350 again or scrap it?

[mtnmankev]

Had no clue the supposed "rebuilt and running" 350 engine I got for a hundred bucks was left out in the rain and snow and water got into it.
Upon disassembly, I found it is .030 over, no big deal.
No ridge at the top of the cylinders, and the crank bearings show almost zero wear.
However, the rust has eaten into a couple cylinders, and I don't know how deep it went, and I suspect it will require being bored .040 to .060 oversized to bring it back to usable.
Then I will need to worry about it running warmer than usual (possibly too hot) due to the thinner cylinder walls ....
I am open to all ideas, opinions, and suggestions ..........
It's a vintage early 70's block and it would be cool to be able to save it from the scrap pile.

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[AZ-520]

Run it, I have a .060 hi-build in Tucson summers. 454 radiator and no problem

 

[Blue Ox]

Ultrasonic testing will tell you what's left and if there are any core shifts or other issues that will keep you from saving it.

Your intended use will have a lot to do with how much you can tolerate. If you're driving vs. racing you can accept a lot more.

 

[nabeshin]

Would a simple hone take care of surface rust like this? Worth a try.

 

[legopnuematic]

My 76 has a .040 over 350, I've run it hard for the over three years of owning it. Towing, tapping the rev limiter, 2 stepping, general hauling. Good brass radiator and has never overheated or had any vapor locking problems.

 

[bucket]

I'd hit that rust with penetrating oil and a scotch brite pad. Water damage can sometimes look worse than it actually is.

 

[QBuff02]

Run a ball hone through the cylinders and that will be a good indication if the rust is bad enough to warrant further. Some minimal pitting is nothing to worry about but if the cylinders show deep markings then it will likely need bored/cleaned up. 95% of the early blocks have no issues going to .060 overbore.

 

[Bennyt]

As others have suggested, I'd ball hone it to start. If it does need to be bored, it will probably have to go to .060 as its hard to clean up with only a .010 overbore. I always tell people to bore blocks .020/.040/.060 so they get one more life out of them. Not sure why everyone jumps to .030 when other sizes of Pistons have been available for 40 years.

Maybe 7/8 will clean up great and you can sleeve the one bad cylinder. When I was a teenager and worked at PAW and cores started getting harder to get, we started offering a remanufactured block and would sleeve all 8. Thicker and stronger.

I wouldn't worry about it running warmer. Doubtful if it does, but would only be 1-2 degrees. Not going to see a 50 degree increase.

As a side note, for years, everyone in the industry called a ball hone, a "dingleberry" hone and no one ever used the term "ball hone" About 5 years ago, I went to buy a dingleberry hone and none of the millennial generation had a clue knew what I was asking for. Older guy at the machine shop was laughing his ass off that they had no idea. He than had to explain what a dingleberry was.

 

[80BrownK10]

As others have suggested, I'd ball hone it to start. If it does need to be bored, it will probably have to go to .060 as its hard to clean up with only a .010 overbore. I always tell people to bore blocks .020/.040/.060 so they get one more life out of them. Not sure why everyone jumps to .030 when other sizes of Pistons have been available for 40 years.

Maybe 7/8 will clean up great and you can sleeve the one bad cylinder. When I was a teenager and worked at PAW and cores started getting harder to get, we started offering a remanufactured block and would sleeve all 8. Thicker and stronger.

I wouldn't worry about it running warmer. Doubtful if it does, but would only be 1-2 degrees. Not going to see a 50 degree increase.

As a side note, for years, everyone in the industry called a ball hone, a "dingleberry" hone and no one ever used the term "ball hone" About 5 years ago, I went to buy a dingleberry hone and none of the millennial generation had a clue knew what I was asking for. Older guy at the machine shop was laughing his ass off that they had no idea. He than had to explain what a dingleberry was.

I am a millineal by definition of the years born. I am 38, born in 1982 or the first year of the generation. I am more like the generation before me though. Anyway, I know what a dingleberry hone is. I have called them both. BUT I am older than most of those kids now a days and I did work in the parts industry 20 years ago.

 

[78C10BigTen]

I am a millineal by definition of the years born. I am 38, born in 1982 or the first year of the generation. I am more like the generation before me though. Anyway, I know what a dingleberry hone is. I have called them both. BUT I am older than most of those kids now a days and I did work in the parts industry 20 years ago.

So your 6 years older then me and your a millenial???? Ive also hear both terms on the hone. Honestly its the only one ive known for so long. My uncle used to build his own dirt track engines so ive been exposed to such tools.

 

[80BrownK10]

So your 6 years older then me and your a millenial???? Ive also hear both terms on the hone. Honestly its the only one ive known for so long. My uncle used to build his own dirt track engines so ive been exposed to such tools.

Depends on who's definition you go by. But the widely accepted start year for the millineal generation is 1982. If you look it up in Wikipedia that's the year it lists. I think it goes all the way down to people in their early twenties or mid twenties.

 

[Salty Crusty]

What are the numbers on the main caps?
If it's a 4-bolt block and has "2482" on the center 3 caps, those are nodular. These were used for HD (1-ton trucks) and LT1 engines.

 

[Salty Crusty]

Sorry, double post

 

[MikeB]

I always tell people to bore blocks .020/.040/.060 so they get one more life out of them. Not sure why everyone jumps to .030 when other sizes of Pistons have been available for 40 years.

I agree. Back in the early 2000s, I worked Saturdays at a shop that specialized in 383s. Wasn't uncommon to see later model 1-piece main seal blocks clean up at +.010 or less, but the boss always liked to take them out to around .029, and then power hone to .031. The extra .001 was for a safety margin. He did stock several styles of +.030 pistons and ring sets, so not doing +.020" bores cut back on his inventory.

 

[mtnmankev]

Now I'm thinking this block might be a worthy candidate to build me another 383 stroker ............