Would you bore this 350 again or scrap it?

[bucket]

What are the numbers on the main caps?
If it's a 4-bolt block and has "2482" on the center 3 caps, those are nodular. These were used for HD (1-ton trucks) and LT1 engines.

You sure have a lot of numbers stored in your head

 

[broketiredugly]

bore it. it has been honed again after the first 030 bore. look at those hone marks...junk work. look at the area above the ridge, its slick. no bore leAVes that slick and it has no hone marks. engine never rebuilt right. i bet you got egged cylinders.

those are cheap pistons and the rings are no good. as said above, the metalurgy testing will tell rest of story. .060 wont make engine run hot, poor engine building will!

you have a boat anchor, that can be built right for around the price of a mass production reman.

 

[mtnmankev]

I need to make sure the machine shop is still open during these trying times of so many closures, and figure out the budget to make the engine right.
THANK YOU guys for all the info, tips and advice.
And the main caps have 3412 cast into them, not sure if they are anything special or just good enough.
It is a 4 bolt main, so even at a mild build will be more than plenty strong enough.
20 years ago, I built my first 383 stroker using a 2 bolt main early 70's vintage block, many guys told me I needed to use a 4 bolt in order for it to hold up and last.
Well, 20 years and over 100K HARD USAGE miles later, it still runs good, a bit tired from compression loss and perhaps needing head/valve work by now, but it doesn't knock or make any funny noises, and oil pressure is still at 60 psi at idle..
Here's a pic of the block in question, maybe you can read the numbers cast into the main caps,

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[broketiredugly]

for street and a light vehicle , 2 bolt is fine. think overloaded dump truck, 5500 rpm all day eveyday and you may want a 4bolt. 2 bolts will turn 10,000 rpm on a light vehicle and not constant duty. its overated. if the block will line bore....dont worry about it.