Who's worked with lead vs bondo?

[Grit dog]

Getting ready to do the bodywork, truck is about stripped and sanded down.
All the little "dings" are going to get bondo. Got some good quality Evercoat Rage something or other.

BUT, I've decided against cutting out all the bad stuff on the windshield frame, only the worst spot is going to get replaced, as after wire wheeling the snot out of the other bad spots, it's pin holes.
Also have all the visor mount holes to fill on the roof. Aside from the absolute outrageous time it would take to cut out 5 different areas of skin around the windshield, I want to minimize the welding it do on the cab. More disassembly, spot weld drilling, potential to burn ****, etc.
Plan on doing rust converter paint with the little hose nozzle around the inside the windshield frame. And on the outside where the 3 layers are pinch welded together. There's enough holes already to reach it all I'm pretty sure.
The pin hole areas are pretty damn solid directly adjacent to the holes. But I'm considering using lead vs bondo filler. Why? I'm not sure. Seems easy enough, seems "better", I saw it on Youtube?

Question is who's done this before and am I barking up the wrong tree?
Also seems if I eff it up, it should be easy enough to heat up and wipe it out.

Here's what I'm dealing with. I've since cleaned up the areas and its not totally rotten.

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[Grit dog]

Ok, the pics aren't very good, but the big hole in the 2nd pic, there's about 9 of them to fill and the rust holes are all smaller, even after opening them up.

 

[bucket]

I've not ever worked with lead, although it's something I would really like to master some day. Does that count? Lol

I believe Evercoat or USC make a metal filler of some kind. I don't recall what it is composed of. But that may be worth a try.

 

[waterpirate]

While I was a wayward apprentice at a body shop circa 1985, we had a guy that did lead work for the purest of the car resto guys. It is a true art form. I tried it, I sucked. I would suggest practicing on some holes not on your truck first. Also filing and sanding lead needs respirator protection for the craftsman. The old guy in my shop never wore a mask and smoked 2 packs of pall malls in a shift. Did not seem to bother him???
Eric

 

[82sbshortbed]

JBWeld?

 

[78C10BigTen]

Makin the ol square a lead sled eh!? Lol

 

[Snoots]

With the right tools and prep (and a plan), it's not that hard. Don't use the 'lead-free' type unless you have lots and lots of elbow grease.
You'll need lots of types of files and a file cleaner.
Tallow really smells.
I use a small propane torch and a solid iron that I bought used from a radiator shop.

NOTE: You can only wet sand lead. Never dry sand it. That dust is an absolute killer.

 

[bucket]

With the right tools and prep (and a plan), it's not that hard. Don't use the 'lead-free' type unless you have lots and lots of elbow grease.
You'll need lots of types of files and a file cleaner.
Tallow really smells.
I use a small propane torch and a solid iron that I bought used from a radiator shop.

NOTE: You can only wet sand lead. Never dry sand it. That dust is an absolute killer.

Ah, so you have experience. Next time I'm down that way, I'll bring some practice sheetmetal and you can teach me the basics

 

[Dave M]

No matter which way you want to finally finish it, the metal has to be perfectly cleaned and prepped. For me, l would prefer to mig weld up the holes. "Bog" as we call it is not always the best fix. If moisture can get behind the filler over a rust hole, then it's eventually going to break out with rust again.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Why would you use lead? It's heavy, it's poison and it rusts. That's what sticks out to me but, I've never seen it before do what do know. Lol

 

[AuroraGirl]

My shop is full of lead body work tools from the 60s and I don’t know what any of them do, but I hear it’s a real expert level craft. My gpa saved old wheel weights for his lead and melted it down but definitely consider respirators because poisonous

I think for someome who doesn’t do body work bondo would be easier but it’s gonna be less permanent or maybe won’t be as durable(I have no idea) but if you could practice lead work and get it right it would prob be worth it or if you found someome.

 

[Snoots]

Ah, so you have experience. Next time I'm down that way, I'll bring some practice sheetmetal and you can teach me the basics

Come to the South, We have beer!

 

[Snoots]

Why would you use lead? It's heavy, it's poison and it rusts. That's what sticks out to me but, I've never seen it before do what do know. Lol

It's lighter than metal, it's poison only if you ingest/inhale it and, it doesn't rust.

 

[Snoots]

It's got a bad rep because of, well, IT'S LEAD! Ahhhhhhh!!!! Run Away!!!

It's not nearly as easy as bondo but in the end it's better because it's stronger and won't crack or absorb moisture.

Look at it this way; if you can solder a great electrical connection, you already have the basics.

Clean, clean, clean
Use rosin (tallow)
Use heat (you have to use the same careful heat on your metal as usual; i.e.: welding)
Tallow cleans and preps the surface to accept the lead and keeps it from severely burning your paddle.

 

[idahovette]

I HATE it when I burn my paddle!!!!