Wheel spacers done right.

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T-roy K10

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At least that’s my opinion. I know, some are gonna say “never use spacers period!” But I think in this case it will be fine. I had them made hub centric on axle and wheel. These wheel hit my tie rods so I had to either buy other wheels or use spacers.
I have new retro style slot wheels made by U.S. mags Which are never intended to be hub centric due to the center cap design. These wheels use the old style center caps that slid into the center bore from the inside which leaves space between the wheel and center cap, so even if the cap fit tightly on the hub it still has slop.
so, I had Bora spacers custom made by Motorsports-Tech. The inner bore the stock 90mm but this is how I made the spacer to wheel a tight fit. The bore on these wheels are 4.252”. The center cap metal is .031 thick. Subtract .031 x 2 = .062. So the male shoulder on the outside of the spacer was made 4.190. Actually 4.188 to be safe. the center Cap is still going to have space between it and the wheel bore UNLESS you do this. I used a thin cut-off wheel to make slits in the center cap to allow it to expand where it will now fit tightly between the spacer and wheel.
now I have spacers that are hub centric from hub to spacer and spacer to wheel.
spacial thanks to the guys at motor sports tech For making custom these bad boys!


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Last edited:

bucket

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At least that’s my opinion. I know, some are gonna say “never use spacers period!” But I think in this case it will be fine. I had them made hub centric on axle and wheel. These wheel hit my tie rods so I had to either buy other wheels or use spacers.
I have new retro style slot wheels made by U.S. mags Which are never intended to be hub centric due to the center cap design. These wheels use the old style center caps that slid into the center bore from the inside which leaves space between the wheel and center cap, so even if the cap fit tightly on the hub it still has slop.
so, I had Bora spacers custom made by Motorsports-Tech. The inner bore the stock 90mm but this is how I made the spacer to wheel a tight fit. The bore on these wheels are 4.252”. The center cap metal is .031 thick. Subtract .031 x 2 = .062. So the male shoulder on the outside of the spacer was made 4.190. Actually 4.188 to be safe. the center Cap is still going to have space between it and the wheel bore UNLESS you do this. I used a thin cut-off wheel to make slits in the center cap to allow it to expand where it will now fit tightly between the spacer and wheel.
now I have spacers that are hub centric from hub to spacer and spacer to wheel.
spacial thanks to the guys at motor sports tech For making custom these bad boys!


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Looks fantastic and I agree that it's done very well.

But someone I'm sure will hassle you over them being aluminum and not steel, lol.
 

Scott91370

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I also use BORA spacers. Then anf Fred Geoersectichers (can't remember how to spell the last name) are the only two brands I would trust to put on any vehicle.

Front I run 1.5" and rear are 2".
 

T-roy K10

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I also use BORA spacers. Then anf Fred Geoersectichers (can't remember how to spell the last name) are the only two brands I would trust to put on any vehicle.

Front I run 1.5" and rear are 2".

I put the minimum on the front (3/4) because I don’t want clearance issues with the fenders, But went with 1 3/4 in the rear to get them close in width.
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Nasty-LSX

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Are the wheels 15x10? that looks killer
 

Buicknut

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A couple more pics
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What size tire and wheel are you running?
 

T-roy K10

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Troy
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K10
Engine Size
350
Are the wheels 15x10? that looks killer
15x9. I was afraid to go with the 10s because of the likelihood of the tires hitting the fenders, but I screwed up by not noticing the 4.5“ backspacing that caused the wheels to hit the tie rods.
 

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