What to keep? Sbc questions

[Matt69olds]

Number one son bought a 94 blazer for cheap. It’s been seriously abused and beat, but has some neat parts/options that will eventually find its way onto his Yukon.

I’m not very fluent in sbc stuff. Are any of the later model pass side dipstick blocks desirable? Are any 4 bolt mains? If I remember correctly, the pass side dipstick also means one piece rear main seal? What/where are the casting numbers?

While the engine does turn over, the previous owner started tearing it apart for some reason. The oil appears clean, unfortunately the oil filter is gone or I’d cut it apart for inspection.

What’s a sbc core worth? I’m guessing with the popularity of the LS swap the old stuff isn’t nearly as desirable as it once was.

If it’s worth 200-200 bucks, I might pull it. If not, it’s going to that big scrapyard in the sky with the rest of the truck.

 

[Ricko1966]

How much of the tbi stuff is still there?

 

[RustyPile]

Matt, speaking as a potential buyer, there is still some interest in the SBC blocks.. Unless the block is destined for some serious displacement mods, there's not much difference between a 2 bolt and 4 bolt block other than "bragging rights".. I've built 2 bolt blocks for racing applications that lived everyday above 7500 RPM.. The main thing I'd be looking for when shopping for an SBC block is the later versions set up for roller lifters... I'd never give thought to which side the dip stick is located nor to the rear seal configuration, but I'd sure be looking at the current bore (over bore) size...

SBC casting numbers are on the bell housing flange directly behind the #7 cylinder (driver's side)...

 

[Ricko1966]

I so agree with what rusty said. I normally don't say it because it just starts controversy. But I wouldn't be any more partial for a 2 bolt or a 4 bolt. They both have good qualities and bad, but I know when we were running an asphalt modified the 4 bolt blocks would crack with sustained high rpm but the 2 bolts didn't. We theorized it was due to a difference in rigidity. The 2 bolts would flex,the 4 bolts would crack. And I can't remember how many rpm was the magic number on the oldsmobile rods.

 

[bucket]

'94 Blazer will have a good shortblock that is roller cam ready. 2 bolt or 4 bolt doesn't matter to most. The heads aren't worth any money, but the shortblock is very useful if it's not hurt.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

My biggest issue would be no mechanical fuel pump provision. Unless doing a nice sniper setup or similar, I prefer a mechanical pump. Depends on fuel delivery options. Small block Chevy is king in my opinion

 

[GTX63]

What’s a sbc core worth? I’m guessing with the popularity of the LS swap the old stuff isn’t nearly as desirable as it once was.

If it’s worth 200-200 bucks, I might pull it. If not, it’s going to that big scrapyard in the sky with the rest of the truck.

I've used a half dozen 350s from 89-95 for projects meant as drivers/working trucks and flips. I've spent anywhere from $300-$700 for used running motors. They ran just as well and strong as 70s era small blocks but I was only after driveability and dependability. A $200 shortblock that sits in the corner of your shop is about the same as putting $200 in a jar on the shelf and forgetting about it for 6 months. List it on marketplace and forget about it.

 

[GTX63]

I know this is not practical for everyone, especially in urban areas, HOAs, etc, but a donor truck is worth its weight in gold. I cannot recall the number of times I have walked away from a squarebody I was working on and out behind my barn to retrieve bolts, trim, brackets, hubs, pullies, etc and finished the job in short order, rather than trying to hunt down and pay for something to be shipped.
I just trailered home a 1976 K10. I paid 1k for a rolling frame with a good non smoking 350, a good turbo 350 with a working 203 transfer case, the driveshafts, steering box, axles, core support, springs, good hood, wiring, radiator, etc. That breaks down to a pretty good deal for 1K vs buying it all used and separate. Now, when I am done, I'll have either a bare 4x4 frame for sale to recoup some of the money or I'll use it to swap a 1970 C10 into a 4x4.
My point is that if it is at all possible, hang on to that stuff. What you think is junk now might be needed and handy someday.

 

[Matt69olds]

How much of the tbi stuff is still there?

I haven’t found the intake, looks like everything under the hood including the throttle body is there.

 

[Matt69olds]

My biggest issue would be no mechanical fuel pump provision. Unless doing a nice sniper setup or similar, I prefer a mechanical pump. Depends on fuel delivery options. Small block Chevy is king in my opinion

There is a plate bolted to the block where a mechanical pump would normally go. I assume this means one could unbolt the plate and install the parts for a conventional pump?

 

[Matt69olds]

I know this is not practical for everyone, especially in urban areas, HOAs, etc, but a donor truck is worth its weight in gold. I cannot recall the number of times I have walked away from a squarebody I was working on and out behind my barn to retrieve bolts, trim, brackets, hubs, pullies, etc and finished the job in short order, rather than trying to hunt down and pay for something to be shipped.
I just trailered home a 1976 K10. I paid 1k for a rolling frame with a good non smoking 350, a good turbo 350 with a working 203 transfer case, the driveshafts, steering box, axles, core support, springs, good hood, wiring, radiator, etc. That breaks down to a pretty good deal for 1K vs buying it all used and separate. Now, when I am done, I'll have either a bare 4x4 frame for sale to recoup some of the money or I'll use it to swap a 1970 C10 into a 4x4.
My point is that if it is at all possible, hang on to that stuff. What you think is junk now might be needed and handy someday.

The interior of this is absolutely trashed. Judging from the condition of the seats, door panels, and the fact that both “Oh ****!” handles are torn out of the roof, I would not be the least bit surprised if the previous owner weighed 450 plus pounds. I have never seen a seat a broken down and cracked seat frame as this one.

Not to mention it’s clearly had an abused life. I have found a broken driven shaft yoke, along with the rear output shaft flange from the transfer case under the seat. That explains the beat up floorboard!! The existing driveshaft and transfer case are intact.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

There is a plate bolted to the block where a mechanical pump would normally go. I assume this means one could unbolt the plate and install the parts for a conventional pump?

Yep, as long as the hole for the fuel pump pushrod is machined in the block. Not all of them have the provision.

 

[Ricko1966]

I haven’t found the intake, looks like everything under the hood including the throttle body is there.

There is a plate bolted to the block where a mechanical pump would normally go. I assume this means one could unbolt the plate and install the parts for a conventional pump?

Fuel pump is a crap shoot not all are drilled for the pushrod the tbi stuff that could ship 1/2 way reasonable I'd be very interested in. Distributor,wiring and ecm. P. M. me if you want to work something out. Thanks

 

[mtbadbob]

Yep, as long as the hole for the fuel pump pushrod is machined in the block. Not all of them have the provision.

Yeah, a mechanical pump is WORTHLESS without the push rod!

 

[mtbadbob]

Fuel pump is a crap shoot not all are drilled for the pushrod the tbi stuff that could ship 1/2 way reasonable I'd be very interested in. Distributor,wiring and ecm. P. M. me if you want to work something out. Thanks

Have you ever used Fastenal for shipping??? Strap it to a pallet & they'll ship very reasonable from store to store if you want to ship the block..