What to keep? Sbc questions

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AuroraGirl

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'94 Blazer will have a good shortblock that is roller cam ready. 2 bolt or 4 bolt doesn't matter to most. The heads aren't worth any money, but the shortblock is very useful if it's not hurt.
its not likely roller cam factory, but when you say ready what do you mean? If it came from a GM tbi car like a caprice it would most likely be roller cam lol.
 

AuroraGirl

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The interior of this is absolutely trashed. Judging from the condition of the seats, door panels, and the fact that both “Oh ****!” handles are torn out of the roof, I would not be the least bit surprised if the previous owner weighed 450 plus pounds. I have never seen a seat a broken down and cracked seat frame as this one.

Not to mention it’s clearly had an abused life. I have found a broken driven shaft yoke, along with the rear output shaft flange from the transfer case under the seat. That explains the beat up floorboard!! The existing driveshaft and transfer case are intact.
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notice how the driver seat is twisted looking? The past owner who died (his widow is the one who sold it to me) was morbidly obese and would push into the seat to try and get out i presume, and managed to break the seat frames ability to recline. if i recline the seat the left side moves independent of the right, which is broken and stays there exactly. the heated seat element was ripped from its wiring and the cushion was in rough shape
 

bucket

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its not likely roller cam factory, but when you say ready what do you mean? If it came from a GM tbi car like a caprice it would most likely be roller cam lol.

A large majority of the 90's truck blocks were machined for the roller cam hardware like the cars used.
 

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Yeah, a mechanical pump is WORTHLESS without the push rod! :laughing1:
Not entirely true. If you can bolt a 3 port pump to the block,you can use it as a junction.Use an electric pump by or in the tank to push through a 3 port pump,now your bypass works,keeping your electric pump happy,the factory steel line for your carbureator still works,and the pressure relief on the three port pump keeps the needle and seat from blowing open on heat soak with a qjet. That how my trucks plumbed,and it works very well. I had the aforementioned problems until I went this route.
 
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Turbo4whl

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Not entirely true. If you can bolt a 3 port pump to the block,you can use it as a junction.Use an electric pump by or in the tank to push through a 3 port pump,now your bypass works,keeping your electric pump happy,the factory steel line for your carbureator still works,and the pressure relief on the three poet pump keeps the needle and seat from blowing open on heat soak with a qjet. That how my trucks plumbed,and it works very well. I had the aforementioned problems until I went this route.
Interesting! Thanks for the idea. With that you could hang the pump on any block with the fuel pump boss, just cut the lever flat. Could make a real clean install in place of a by-pass regulator.
 

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There is a plate bolted to the block where a mechanical pump would normally go. I assume this means one could unbolt the plate and install the parts for a conventional pump?
The casting number on the back of the block will tell you if it is a roller cam or not. Not sure when they started (mid 90's), but the 10243880 was a popular choice for builds.
All were rough casted with the provision for a mechanical pump but not all were finished. Just a plug up in the pushrod hole on the later ones. The fact yours has a cover, would lead me to believe yours may be. It does not necessarily mean you will have a lobe on the cam for the pump though.
There is also a large 880 casted into the sides of those blocks.
@Ricko1966 mentioned problems with cracks on the 4 bolts. I have heard that a lot of the speed guys actually prefer the 2's due to them being stronger in their webs because of the fewer holes drilled into them.
 

Ricko1966

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Interesting! Thanks for the idea. With that you could hang the pump on any block with the fuel pump boss, just cut the lever flat. Could make a real clean install in place of a by-pass regulator.
Didn't want to get to far into it but since you mentioned,bypass regulator. That is exactly how I use mine. I have a fuel shutoff valve for a lawn tractor in the return line at the pump. I open or shut the valve more or less. The more restricted the return line the more fuel pressure. I used to do the same thing with a tee in the line. Straight shot to carb,dogleg side to return line with a drilled brass restrictor in the hose.But a pump and a fuel valve is so much cleaner using all factory lines and connections. The fuel valve was @buckets idea when I was looking for a fuel safe ball valve for a restrictor.
 
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AuroraGirl

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Not entirely true. If you can bolt a 3 port pump to the block,you can use it as a junction.Use an electric pump by or in the tank to push through a 3 port pump,now your bypass works,keeping your electric pump happy,the factory steel line for your carbureator still works,and the pressure relief on the three port pump keeps the needle and seat from blowing open on heat soak with a qjet. That how my trucks plumbed,and it works very well. I had the aforementioned problems until I went this route.
How long have you used it?
and genius! I may have to do this some day. One could use an edelbrock fuel pump to regulate the pressure to edelbrocks specifications and still keep it looking proper.
 

AuroraGirl

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Have you ever used Fastenal for shipping??? Strap it to a pallet & they'll ship very reasonable from store to store if you want to ship the block..
can anyone do that? if they dont sell to people on the street in their store(have to be a commercial business), then why would they do that? Unless fastenal is different where you come from?
 

AuroraGirl

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The casting number on the back of the block will tell you if it is a roller cam or not. Not sure when they started (mid 90's), but the 10243880 was a popular choice for builds.
All were rough casted with the provision for a mechanical pump but not all were finished. Just a plug up in the pushrod hole on the later ones. The fact yours has a cover, would lead me to believe yours may be. It does not necessarily mean you will have a lobe on the cam for the pump though.
There is also a large 880 casted into the sides of those blocks.
@Ricko1966 mentioned problems with cracks on the 4 bolts. I have heard that a lot of the speed guys actually prefer the 2's due to them being stronger in their webs because of the fewer holes drilled into them.
to my understanding all the small block SERTAs of the last few years of them being new and aftermarket GM castings sold new today are the same block and they are all 4 bolts and those have more material in the block by the mains because of that issue. I dont know if that means that years block would have that or not
 

Ricko1966

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How long have you used it?
and genius! I may have to do this some day. One could use an edelbrock fuel pump to regulate the pressure to edelbrocks specifications and still keep it looking proper.
Started in the 80s,at work. It wasn't my idea. Using a pump was my idea which I did a year or 2 ago. But back in the 80's when people were removing fuel injection,not adding it, the shop I was at was using a tee and a restrictor to regulate pressure. All the cheap parts we have now,loke bypass regulators weren't available then. Strokers you ground your own,searched catalogs for suitable pistons and if you had too you reworked rods from a different engine ,turbos were mostly home brew,cheap long rods, you reworked rods from other engines. Etc. Etc.
 
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bucket

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can anyone do that? if they dont sell to people on the street in their store(have to be a commercial business), then why would they do that? Unless fastenal is different where you come from?

It all depends on the Fastenall. The Fastenall in Washington Courthouse lets customers come in and buy/order stuff without having a commercial account. I know that many other stores do not operate that way anymore.
 

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can anyone do that? if they dont sell to people on the street in their store(have to be a commercial business), then why would they do that? Unless fastenal is different where you come from?
Yes, their freight company is called Blue Lane Freight. I had my tailgate shipped up from CA for like $125
 

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