What oil should I use?

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Cuba

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Just because you don't visibly see the leak doesn't mean it isn't evaporating out some or only leaks while driving. Idle running isn't enough to test the cap, usually. The only real way to test the cap is with a pressure tester.

As far as the rad, they're almost all aluminum anymore. What you want is more rows. You may have 2 rows of core, then go for 4... IF it'll fit. You can always add an inline trans cooler to run in series with the rad OE version. HotRodPC mentioned that one with 4 rows above for $200. AGAIN... only if you have to take that route. VERIFY the cap 1st.
 

HotRodPC

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Okay, my friend came over and we found the radiator almost empty. We then bought some stop leak to provide a temporary fix. I will be looking for a new radiator. I ran the engine for 30+ minutes and did not see any fluid coming out from the cap. Everything was dry.

Do on to the next question: The truck has a transmission cooler and secondary fan in front of the existing radiator. He suggested an aluminum radiator because this truck tows my 5000 pound camper and my bass boat. What should I look for in a new radiator?

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What I posted already up there.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-ROW-ALUMI...id=100005&rk=4&rkt=6&mehot=lo&sd=151566212594

Yep, a little late for the stop leak now. I avoid it like the plague. If you're lucky you might have a heater core that will allow coolant to pass through come this winter or a thermostat that does get sealed off or stuck open or .... Aluma seal or the powdered shavings is the most you'd want to put in a cooling system. Stop leak is for a vehicle you're trying to sale and trying to milsead a buyer which I've never bring myself able to do.
 

HotRodPC

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Many times when going to an aluminum radiator, you don't need as many cores. Aluminum discipates the heat quicker and the aluminum radiators have the tubes closer together so there is actually more capacity in a 3 core than the old 4 cores. 4 cores is better though, especially if you're going to be towing.
 

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Many times when going to an aluminum radiator, you don't need as many cores. Aluminum discipates the heat quicker and the aluminum radiators have the tubes closer together so there is actually more capacity in a 3 core than the old 4 cores. 4 cores is better though, especially if you're going to be towing.
Mine is 2 row.....but the tubes are 1.25" wide and it's got 3" tanks. Yes it's aluminum.
 

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Thanks for the info in Chattanooga. The stop leak was a total disaster. I now have more problems than ever! Hopefully I can get this done quickly

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Cuba

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Flush it all out.... use straight water, drive around for 20 mns, & re flush it. Keep doing that until you get most of it out.

Hopefully it's just a lesson learned with that stop leak crap. Do not use anything that has a stop leak in it in the future. This goes for oils, a/c freon, tires, etc. Usually does more harm than good & then mechanics don't want to touch it after.
 

coachdtierney54

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Gotcha. It should be called make a leak. Thermostat gasket is shot

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Ordered the new radiator t stat today. I am assuming that I still need to flush out as much **** as I can. Is that right?

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Cuba

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Ordered the new radiator t stat today. I am assuming that I still need to flush out as much **** as I can. Is that right?

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This is correct. This way it doesn't contaminate the new parts.
 

coachdtierney54

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After one flush...
You must be registered for see images attach


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HotRodPC

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That's not a favorable color. Case and point, the flush needed done. Looks a little rusty. And a rusty cooling system holds heat and doesn't discipate heat like it's designed to do. This could be why you are running warm, and me too come to think of it since my fan clutch is in good shape.
 

coachdtierney54

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Second flush was better, but still nasty...

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Honky Kong jr

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Keep diggin. I've used distilled vinegar in mine it's cheap and works on rust. 2 or 3 gallons run it to temp and let it sit over night rinse and repeat as needed.
 

coachdtierney54

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Do I dilute the vinegar?

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