What have you done to your square lately??

[Ajax19]

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[Grit dog]

Something makes me think this could be it. This video randomly popped in to my Y Toob feed and it seems likely what my truck has going on. It's just a guy talking but what he shows you is what I will be looking for when I finally do swap out tank and fuel pumps.https://youtu.be/a8ksy3kEaHs?si=qmm8FBnwPoFBKqJV

To @bucket reasoning, I haven’t run a TBI Chevy for almost 30 years and never lost a fuel pump in any TBI I had or in the fleet. But post TBI era I’ve experienced several high pressure gas fuel pump failures. Vehicle and boats. Mostly GM. And the common theme was they all failed suddenly and completely. So I’d trust his experience over mine.

 

[Grit dog]

Bought a fuel filter to see which attachments I could use on the truck with the pressure tester guage I borrowed: a Betooll 0-140 psi kit. Nothing fits GM TBI from it. Does anyone have an affordable, or reliable definite go to kit they recommend that has an attachment to test GM TBI?

I don’t. And per my previous post it’s been a long time since I’ve laid eyes on a TBI. Is there no Schrader valve to connect to?

 

[Ricko1966]

I don’t. And per my previous post it’s been a long time since I’ve laid eyes on a TBI. Is there no Schrader valve to connect to?

No Schrader on tbi,you have to add a fitting before the throttle body or at or instead of the fuel filter.

 

[JamesSam]

I don’t. And per my previous post it’s been a long time since I’ve laid eyes on a TBI. Is there no Schrader valve to connect to?

There are many different Schrader valves but none are a direct fit to the fuel pump. I think I can pull off a test with a T fitting, some clamps and hose from this kit.

 

[JamesSam]

There are many different Schrader valves but none are a direct fit to the fuel pump. I think I can pull off a test with a T fitting, some clamps and hose from this kit.

Like @Ricko1966 mentioned.

 

[geolee]

I am kind of aggravated, I had to replace my alternator. About 2 years and less then 5K miles ago I installed a (supposed to be) brand new, AC Delco alternator. From day one I thought it had bad bearings and over time it got worse and worse. Was squalling like hell at the end. Went back with the O'Reilly's junk alternator. I guess I will wait and see what happens.

Also irritated that on both alternators I had to grind down the housing to make the spacer at the bottom fit.

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The quality of parts suck these days

 

[legopnuematic]

Truck looks good in my book!!! ALOT better then mine!!

Thank you, it manages to hide most of the ugly pretty well. Really the main problem is the front cab mounts are basically completely gone, passenger side is barely intact and the drivers side is gone to the point the body mount bolt is pushing on the floor.

Which it had these issues back when I got the truck in 2016, when I did it up I kind of ignored them and patched up what I could. It has been patched up a lot before I got it, and I just patched over those lol.

My thoughts are to do the engine reseal, fix the steering column (ignition rack has been broken), leave it as is for now, focus on the 79, maybe get the 79 to point of driving and then focus on the 76. I don’t really want to restore it, but it is mighty nice starting with a clean frame freshly painted and such. But unlike the 79 I already know that everything in the 76 functions, so it negates some of the having to treat everything as bad. The big plus though, is now I think every piece is available for these trucks, I believe one can assemble a cab from all new metal. Really the big one is the availability of full complete floors. That alone is a big time saver.

 

[WFarm]

Gutted the dash in preparation for new dashpad, instrument bezel, radio, dash-mounted speaker and heater/AC controls. Took all the ductwork out and added some sticky-back felt where the registers rotate to tighten them up. Registers themselves look good and will go back in.

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[Grit dog]

Gutted the dash in preparation for new dashpad, instrument bezel, radio, dash-mounted speaker and heater/AC controls. Took all the ductwork out and added some sticky-back felt where the registers rotate to tighten them up. Registers themselves look good and will go back in.

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O rings work great for tightening up the vent rotation as well.

 

[WFarm]

O rings work great for tightening up the vent rotation as well.

Got a bunch of misc o-rings so will try that. That way wife won’t end up with all her crafty felt missing.

Thanks!

 

[Grit dog]

There are many different Schrader valves but none are a direct fit to the fuel pump. I think I can pull off a test with a T fitting, some clamps and hose from this kit.

So answered my own question with google I think. There is NOT a Schrader valve on the TBI system for fuel pressure testing. Is this correct?
Also since it’s low pressure, cobbling in a tee is pretty safe.
Although long term and considering you’re unsure of and fiddling with both tanks and pumps it may make sense to just splice in a tee with a Schrader valve on it for a more permanent setup to easily check fuel pressure and disconnect the gauge easily with no leak concerns.

 

[gmbellew]

So answered my own question with google I think. There is NOT a Schrader valve on the TBI system for fuel pressure testing. Is this correct?
Also since it’s low pressure, cobbling in a tee is pretty safe.
Although long term and considering you’re unsure of and fiddling with both tanks and pumps it may make sense to just splice in a tee with a Schrader valve on it for a more permanent setup to easily check fuel pressure and disconnect the gauge easily with no leak concerns.

I added a test port valve (Actron brand) just after the fuel filter, in between the filter and the flex line. The flex line allows it to stay in place without any modifications. I put a cap on it to keep it clean and just left it in place. That way it is always there to use if I need to check the fuel pressure.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Thank you, it manages to hide most of the ugly pretty well. Really the main problem is the front cab mounts are basically completely gone, passenger side is barely intact and the drivers side is gone to the point the body mount bolt is pushing on the floor.

Which it had these issues back when I got the truck in 2016, when I did it up I kind of ignored them and patched up what I could. It has been patched up a lot before I got it, and I just patched over those lol.

My thoughts are to do the engine reseal, fix the steering column (ignition rack has been broken), leave it as is for now, focus on the 79, maybe get the 79 to point of driving and then focus on the 76. I don’t really want to restore it, but it is mighty nice starting with a clean frame freshly painted and such. But unlike the 79 I already know that everything in the 76 functions, so it negates some of the having to treat everything as bad. The big plus though, is now I think every piece is available for these trucks, I believe one can assemble a cab from all new metal. Really the big one is the availability of full complete floors. That alone is a big time saver.

I have a matching set of complete doors in pretty good shape hidin out.

 

[Strick]

The quality of parts suck these days

The '76 Camaro that I sold a few years back came back to me with a starter issue. The new owner had replaced the starter a total of 3 times since buying the car a couple years back. I inspected the install, removed it and checked the flexplate to see if the center was cracked or broken out and also checked the ring gear teeth; they all checked out fine. I put the starter back up without shims and it made the same evil noise as before. I removed the starter and Gary told me that AZ would not replace it again as they had already replaced it twice before.
I had a couple used starters at school but was not going to drive over and get them. Instead I walked out to the field edge where I'd torn down a C10 a couple years back. After fishing through old corn stalks and weeds I finally found it. I carried inside and aired it out with the compressor. I shot the drive with some WD40 and hooked the booster pack to it. It came immediately to life and worked flawlessly.
I looked at Gary and he back to me and said "put it on the car, man"! I installed on the car with no shim and let the car down almost to the floor. I reached in and just bumped the ignition cylinder and the Camaro roared to life. Gary had a big smile but a look of disbelief as well. "I can't believe that came out of the junkyard...even the field" he said. I had a big ole grin myself and my SIL came over and popped the top on a Miller High Life and told me that I had deserved it.
I sold parts for 20 years of my life as well as working in garages and shops. I was really let down by the "new" parts not being worth a crap. I would be absolutely embarrassed to sell junk when a fella could walk into the field and pull out a better part.
Gary still comes by the house with the car...and it still starts and runs. The "new" starter is on the workbench still.

HS