What have you done to your square lately??

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DoubleDingo

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Bagoomba
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1981
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81-C20 Silverado Camper Special-TH400-4.10s
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Carb'ed Vortec 350
@JamesSam this is a ridiculously easy radiator to replace. I had no idea how bad mine was until I actually pulled it out. It was leaking from several places.
And they still make quality copper brass units that are a direct fit and NO modifications required
 
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Oldbear42

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350
I loaded all the scarp mower parts for a run to the dump this weekend. We have built a few racing mowers in my shop, and I needed to clean up the failure pile before it got in the way of winter snow clearing.
 

Normmus

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Norm
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K10
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Loaded up the K10 with scrap metal today. I've been having issues with the divorced choke, not opening all the way. So I disconnected it and it ran way better on the highway, and used less fuel. I am going to try one of those electric conversions
 

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carfanatic63

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Austin
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1976
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C15 SWB
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454
Been working on converting my GMC to actually have GMC badging.

Picked up a grille and clean tailgate panel for $130 from a swap meet and restored the grille.

Workong on restoring the tailgate panel right now too but no pictures of it
 

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Ajax19

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Ajax
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1983
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K3500
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454
Been working on converting my GMC to actually have GMC badging.

Picked up a grille and clean tailgate panel for $130 from a swap meet and restored the grille.

Workong on restoring the tailgate panel right now too but no pictures of it
Dude score that's a hard to find grill
 

Ajax19

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What year is it exactly? '84?

I'm just curious since I've got a 76 with an 80s front clip. Figured this would hold me over until I do a front end swap in the future.
83-84 there is one on eBay looks in worse shape for 400 right now so I think you got a deal
 

Goldie Driver

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GMC K1500 Suburban
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350
Noticed my turn signal/cruise stalk was loose. Looking thru old pics and noticed that there is a cut out in the lockplate that accepts a round tab from the plastic lock plate cover. Hmmm...

Looks big enough to get to the screw without taking the lockplate off.

Yup ! Still had to take the wheel off.

Dunno if it will hurt since the turn signal lever screw goes in to plastic but I put some blue loctite on it.

Bonus pics of horn spring, horn button (metal) and the plastic retainer, and the line up marks on the steering wheel and steering shaft.
 

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TotalyHucked

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Been working on converting my GMC to actually have GMC badging.

Picked up a grille and clean tailgate panel for $130 from a swap meet and restored the grille.

Workong on restoring the tailgate panel right now too but no pictures of it
Dude you stole that grille! Looks like it's got a couple broken slats but if repaired and fully restored, I've seen those go for $500-$1500
 

carfanatic63

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Austin
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1976
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C15 SWB
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454
Dude you stole that grille! Looks like it's got a couple broken slats but if repaired and fully restored, I've seen those go for $500-$1500
That's cool! Whenever I swap to the 70s front end, guess this could help fund it.

I'll post a pick this afternoon of it on the truck. Got it mounted yesterday but it's in the garage so I couldn't get a good picture
 

GoingCustom

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Travis
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1983
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C30
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6.2 LSA
Got the gooseneck hitch removed and holes cut where the down bars for the roll cage will get welded to
 

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carfanatic63

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1976
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C15 SWB
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454
Got the grille, hood emblem, and tailgate panel on.

Now on to the wheel caps and fender badges. Then interior badges
 

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JamesSam

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Coolant spots on the cardboard under the truck in different places so I crawled under to see. Maybe leaking from the water pump and running down the lower hose. Maybe just leaking from the lower hose clamp and needs a re-do. Pics show both sides of the pump. In the middle pic you can see where the coolant begins to leak down the lower rad hose. Under the petcock/release plug where I have noticed coolant trickling before it was completely dry today. I was thinking about picking up a UV glasses and dye kit to try and find leaks that aren't already obvious. Anyone had luck with one of those?
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bucket

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Coolant spots on the cardboard under the truck in different places so I crawled under to see. Maybe leaking from the water pump and running down the lower hose. Maybe just leaking from the lower hose clamp and needs a re-do. Pics show both sides of the pump. In the middle pic you can see where the coolant begins to leak down the lower rad hose. Under the petcock/release plug where I have noticed coolant trickling before it was completely dry today. I was thinking about picking up a UV glasses and die kit to try and find leaks that aren't already obvious. Anyone had luck with one of those?
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The problem with dye is that it won't really show you much more than what you already know. You have already witnessed the places coolant has been leaking.

The Harbor Freight coolant pressure test kit is pretty good for the money. With a pressure tester, you can simulate the higher pressure scenarios when coolant leaks tend to happen. Then you can determine where all the leaks are and how bad they actually are.
 

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