What have you done to your square lately??

[Blue Ox]

Don't go side terminal, you'll regret it. If you have it in the tray an properly secured, it will be fine. They sell rubber covers for top post terminals as well. Many racing sanctioning bodies require them.

Second that. Having side terminals, I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way to convert to top post, but I wouldn't go the other way in a million years.

 

[bucket]

What is everyone's hatred for side terminal batteries? I've owned some 60 vehicles, most of them with side terminals. No gripes here at all.

 

[bluex]

What is everyone's hatred for side terminal batteries? I've owned some 60 vehicles, most of them with side terminals. No gripes here at all.

When it strips out, your screwed. Hard to clean corrosion off, hard to add circuits too an keep it clean looking, they never seem to stay tight. I'm sure there's more but that's what I got right now...

My main hatred for them is from GMT400 trucks and the dual cable positive they had. Those are where I've mostly had issues. I generally swap the ends to ring terminals an get a stud conversion thing but I still don't like it lol

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

When it strips out, your screwed. Hard to clean corrosion off, hard to add circuits too an keep it clean looking, they never seem to stay tight. I'm sure there's more but that's what I got right now...

My main hatred for them is from GMT400 trucks and the dual cable positive they had. Those are where I've mostly had issues. I generally swap the ends to ring terminals an get a stud conversion thing but I still don't like it lol

Dad did a bolt and jam nut setup on the positive cable on our OBS Burb. I need to do that with the crew cab, it's tried to strand us yesterday cause it was loose. I keep a 5/16" gear wrench in the passenger side door pocket for that purpose!

 

[Blue Ox]

What is everyone's hatred for side terminal batteries? I've owned some 60 vehicles, most of them with side terminals. No gripes here at all.

They have a significant tendency to loosen, and they are very hard to clean if they get the creeping green. IMHO they do that more often because they are not at the highest point on the battery.

I know the hardware is $#itty to save the battery at the expense of the bolts, but does it have to be THAT $#itty? I use a torque wrench on them all nowadays, and they still strip.

They're not the worst thing ever, but I have a lot less problems with posts.

 

[Rustisbest]

Got my x-pipe fixed last week so its off the driveshaft, drove it a few times to break in the gears. Couldn't resist testing the duragrip today....tires sure don't put much rubber down. Got my 6.5 rally mounted up and washed off some dirt....and some more rusty sheet metal

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[WFarm]

Went ahead and dyed the door pockets; figured they wouldn’t be used much at all so color may hold up. Also installed my new steering wheel. Never liked the rubber and aluminum one much. Love the new one!

Before:

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After:

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[ChuckN]

Got my x-pipe fixed last week so its off the driveshaft, drove it a few times to break in the gears. Couldn't resist testing the duragrip today....tires sure don't put much rubber down. Got my 6.5 rally mounted up and washed off some dirt....and some more rusty sheet metal

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Man she’s gorgeous!

 

[Rustisbest]

Man she’s gorgeous!

Thanks buddy

 

[bucket]

When it strips out, your screwed. Hard to clean corrosion off, hard to add circuits too an keep it clean looking, they never seem to stay tight. I'm sure there's more but that's what I got right now...

My main hatred for them is from GMT400 trucks and the dual cable positive they had. Those are where I've mostly had issues. I generally swap the ends to ring terminals an get a stud conversion thing but I still don't like it lol

Dad did a bolt and jam nut setup on the positive cable on our OBS Burb. I need to do that with the crew cab, it's tried to strand us yesterday cause it was loose. I keep a 5/16" gear wrench in the passenger side door pocket for that purpose!

They have a significant tendency to loosen, and they are very hard to clean if they get the creeping green. IMHO they do that more often because they are not at the highest point on the battery.

I know the hardware is $#itty to save the battery at the expense of the bolts, but does it have to be THAT $#itty? I use a torque wrench on them all nowadays, and they still strip.

They're not the worst thing ever, but I have a lot less problems with posts.

On my personal vehicles, I've never had issues with corrosion or loosening. Now, I do tend to use the bolt and jamb nut method. The biggest reason is to easily add circuits and also very easy to hook up a battery charger. An added side benefit is being able to tighten them down without any friction on the terminal threads. But many of mine have had the stock terminals and bolts.

On customer vehicles, there didn't seem to be much of a problem either. Yeah, there was the occasional green one that needed cleaned and also the occasional one that an owner had cross threaded and stripped out, but there were always top post terminals with the same types of issues. Actually, top post issues were much more common, but I figured that was due to the fact that top post batteries were more common.

However, I do agree that the double cable ones with the longer bolt really did suck. Lots and lots of issues with those. I remember them mostly on the fwd Cadillacs and stuff.

 

[ChuckN]

First drive, flawless. Glad I did those inner fenders, not a single rub.

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[JamesSam]

First drive, flawless. Glad I did those inner fenders, not a single rub.

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Wow.

 

[Ricko1966]

The wife's square, her big Burb. It's been shedding clear and paint like crazy, so we finally decided to do something about it, since it lives outside. I WAS hoping to have paint on it before I might have to leave town next week, but OF COURSE my brand new 60gal Grizzly compressor went kaput. If I'm lucky, and take my time, I can at least get the epoxy sealer coat on with my little 33gal Craftsman. That's gonna suck. lol Old guy at the local autobody supply kinda cringed when I showed him pics. Said he's seen the original E-coat primers lift sometimes, when exposed to the new epoxy solvents? It was peeling worse on the left side, but since the silver was on top of the red on the right side, pretty sure that side has been resprayed before. Sooooo.... getting as close to bare metal as my sanity can handle.

At this point, I'll just be happy to get it in primer, even if I do have to sand and re-shoot later. Been roughing the paint off with one of the Harbor Freight surface conditioning drum sanders, and with the compressor down..... cleaning it up with electric orbitals. Blah. Still, not too shabby for a couple afternoons of making a mess.

Don't know if it's too late but run an air hose from the craftsman to the grizzly tank,run your tools,paint gun off the grizzly tank. Recovery time will be big but your spray time will increase a ton.

 

[JamesSam]

Somebody help me figure this out guys, a few things going on in here:
So, yesterday, I went back into the drivers door and got all the wires spliced and crimped. Hooked the battery back up and tested to see if the job worked and both windows moved. I did not go all the way down with the drivers(problematic side) because I had to clean up fast and be somewhere. I was excited that I had power with the new switch capacitor wired in. I was also excited because I got this 2nd new regulator(Dorman) in solid and the rollers worked great in the tracks. Today I go back to put the door card back on and button it up but decided to make sure there were no snags... passenger side seems to work fine. Drivers side will go down all the way then has trouble on the way up at about 2/3. Randomly power will not go through. Waiting a little bit seems to help. Also it seems like I will need to suture the capacitor to the switch inside the door before I put it back as it may slip out. I had to help the window up before calling it quits for today, it's going to rain for another 5 or so days soon. I also found this plug with nothing in it hanging down as if had come loose. What is it? Appears to have been mounted where the 2 holes above it are in the dash. It's to the right of the E break lever.

Is the window intermittent and not going up all the way because of my splicing/crimping hack job? Is it felt related? Have I mounted the motor wrong. All things seemed to check out while doing the job.

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Does this plug I just found need something I am missing? I have not noticed it before today ever since owning the truck.

 

[Ricko1966]

Somebody help me figure this out guys, a few things going on in here:
So, yesterday, I went back into the drivers door and got all the wires spliced and crimped. Hooked the battery back up and tested to see if the job worked and both windows moved. I did not go all the way down with the drivers(problematic side) because I had to clean up fast and be somewhere. I was excited that I had power with the new switch capacitor wired in. I was also excited because I got this 2nd new regulator(Dorman) in solid and the rollers worked great in the tracks. Today I go back to put the door card back on and button it up but decided to make sure there were no snags... passenger side seems to work fine. Drivers side will go down all the way then has trouble on the way up at about 2/3. Randomly power will not go through. Waiting a little bit seems to help. Also it seems like I will need to suture the capacitor to the switch inside the door before I put it back as it may slip out. I had to help the window up before calling it quits for today, it's going to rain for another 5 or so days soon. I also found this plug with nothing in it hanging down as if had come loose. What is it? Appears to have been mounted where the 2 holes above it are in the dash. It's to the right of the E break lever.

Is the window intermittent and not going up all the way because of my splicing/crimping hack job? Is it felt related? Have I mounted the motor wrong. All things seemed to check out while doing the job.

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Does this plug I just found need something I am missing? I have not noticed it before today ever since owning the truck.

That plug is ALDL nothing to do with windows,I would check my tracks,felts,everything mechanical. Make sure the window can go up and down freely without hanging up. I think maybe the window is struggling mechanically and overloading the motor.