What have you done to your square lately??

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HotWheelsBurban

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Houston, Texas
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Carol
Truck Year
1990
Truck Model
R2500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
New coolant hose for the 82 and the 84 on ramps to get a new starter. Maybe do it tomorrow as I'm waiting on the engine to cool down. I'm getting thirsty. Lol

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That upper hose shouldn't be twisted and kinked like that at the bend by the radiator end....I remember their were some applications that you had to trim that end a bit. Gates #20827, back when they were new...#20843 was the lower on a small block. Yup I sold a bunch of them, to remember the part numbers this many years later.....those numbers have probably been superseded by now.
 

Tinker

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LI, NY
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Greg
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1975
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C15
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350
Glass beaded and phosphate coated my jack hold down hardware. Wheel wells going out for powder coat in 2 weeks.
 

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82sbshortbed

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Doug
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1982, 1984
Truck Model
1500 shortbed, 1500 longbed
Engine Size
454, 305
That upper hose shouldn't be twisted and kinked like that at the bend by the radiator end....I remember their were some applications that you had to trim that end a bit. Gates #20827, back when they were new...#20843 was the lower on a small block. Yup I sold a bunch of them, to remember the part numbers this many years later.....those numbers have probably been superseded by now.

That's with me cutting 3/4" off the radiator end. Lol

It's not kinked bad at all. Maybe could adjust it some more on the ends.
 

PrairieDrifter

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Mason
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84,79,77,76,70,48
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Suburban k10, bonanza k10, k30, k20, c10, gmc 1/2ton
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350, 350, 350, 350, 350, 350
That's with me cutting 3/4" off the radiator end. Lol

It's not kinked bad at all. Maybe could adjust it some more on the ends.
I just swapped to a 70's non a/c hose. I believe it's full diameter and not just a smaller hose with flared ends. It's also basically a straight shot unlike the a/c hose, which I see you don't have a/c so no need for an a/c hose.
 

82sbshortbed

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I just swapped to a 70's non a/c hose. I believe it's full diameter and not just a smaller hose with flared ends. It's also basically a straight shot unlike the a/c hose, which I see you don't have a/c so no need for an a/c hose.

No ac on the 82
 

Redfish

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1987
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V1500
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350/5.7
I drove The '87 to a car show in Hammond Lousiana. It was a mediocre show, it rained a couple of times but I did get a couple of decent pics.

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ChuckN

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1981
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C10
Engine Size
350
This week’s update. Spent a day cutting the last coil and disassembling the passenger side.
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After sending back the OER tubular control arms, the CPP items arrived. So I bolted them up a couple days ago, and started reassembling the driver side.
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I quickly discovered that the wheel weights were interfering with the lower control arm ball joint area and also the tie rod part of the lowering spindle.
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Going to stick on weights is the obvious solution. Every shop so far have refused to do it- “they won’t stick”. I’ve talked to multiple people in the meantime that have done it without issue.

So- plan “A”, stick on weights, plan “B” is clearancing everything with an angle grinder with discretion and care.

When talking to a local shop, Heavy Metal Customs, the owner Paul chatted me up about the prior OER control arm issue. A nice guy and has a square himself. I forgot to grab a picture of his so I robbed one off his Facebook page. I’m going to see if he can do the wheel weights for me this week.
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I ordered a set of wheel spacers in the meantime as a backup plan “C” but hoping not to use them.

Edit: much thanks and respect to @bluex for helping me through this project and for always responding quickly to questions.
 
Last edited:

89Suburban

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5.3, 4WD
This week’s update. Spent a day cutting the last coil and disassembling the passenger side.
You must be registered for see images attach


After sending back the OER tubular control arms, the CPP items arrived. So I bolted them up a couple days ago, and started reassembling the driver side.
You must be registered for see images attach


I quickly discovered that the wheel weights were interfering with the lower control arm ball joint area and also the tie rod part of the lowering spindle.
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Going to stick on weights is the obvious solution. Every shop so far have refused to do it- “they won’t stick”. I’ve talked to multiple people in the meantime that have done it without issue.

So- plan “A”, stick on weights, plan “B” is clearancing everything with an angle grinder with discretion and care.

When talking to a local shop, Heavy Metal Customs, the owner Paul chatted me up about the prior OER control arm issue. A nice guy and has a square himself. I forgot to grab a picture of his so I robbed one off his Facebook page. I’m going to see if he can do the wheel weights for me this week.
You must be registered for see images attach

I ordered a set of wheel spacers in the meantime as a backup plan “C” but hoping not to use them.

Edit: much thanks and respect to @bluex for helping me through this project and for always responding quickly to questions.


Love that Blue one there. Looks like NASCAR truck. :)
 

Camar068

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K10/LM7 5.3/4L60e/np208/3.73/32"
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10 yrs Air Force
Cleaned the trim on the camper shell and the wheels. The front wheels were so bad u couldn't see aluminum.

Purple power aluminum brightener and 10 minutes of elbow grease with green scotch brite made a diff.

Still needs work but almost there
 

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ChuckN

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Bellinham, WA
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Chad
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C10
Engine Size
350
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The falcon has landed @bluex - alignment scheduled for Thursday. The garage is getting hot, I’m calling it a day.
 

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