What have you done to your square lately??

[Turbo4whl]

Sure, I'm interested.

I'd guess so that the front and rear wheels aren't riding in the same rut, gives a chance for the wheels to touch a little bit of fresh ground. Am I close?

Yes you are close. I'll let these 2 engineers help explain:

Braja Narayan Panda

Mechanical Engineer

Why do cars have a wider front track width compared to rear track width?

While cornering and braking weight transfer takes place diagonally that is from rear right to front left or vice versa. Larger front track width decreases this weight transfer.
Rear wheels closer helps in attaining traction. Front tire wider than rear also helps in steering (decreases turning radius.)
And weight transfer is inversely proportional to track width.
P.S This answer is written based on the assumption that the reader knows the basics of vehicle dynamics ,and has idea about castor, camber ,toe and turning radius


Sudhan

Automobile Engineer

Why do 4 wheel drive vehicles have a wider front track width compared to rear track width?

As you may know wheel track is the center to center distance between the wheels, while looking at the vehicle in front view.

The reason for using a setup wherein the front track is bigger than rear, is to provide easy maneuverability in turns.

This setup will enable the driver to take a turn with keeping in mind the front distance of the vehicle. As the front track is bigger the driver need not worry about vahicle’s rear end hitting anything.

Imagine a situation where the front track is smaller, then driver will have to take turns more cautiously because the rear track being larger will have a greater chance of hitting other objects.

 

[mikeoverland]

I was up late last night and the basket case (1981 C10) now has a new fuel pump and the broken front brake line is now brand new. I hope to have all of the soft brake lines replaced by the end of the weekend. Next up is to rebuild the 2bbl carb. I think that it is full of junk and the acclerator pump could stand to be replaced.

 

[Camar068]

I was up late last night and the basket case (1981 C10) now has a new fuel pump and the broken front brake line is now brand new. I hope to have all of the soft brake lines replaced by the end of the weekend. Next up is to rebuild the 2bbl carb. I think that it is full of junk and the acclerator pump could stand to be replaced.

good job! Do one, do all.....brake issues on the road aren't fun....all you can do is down shift, sh!t, steer and pray!

 

[mikeoverland]

good job! Do one, do all.....brake issues on the road aren't fun....all you can do is down shift, sh!t, steer and pray!

the one brake line that i replced was an original from 1981. i think somone got their money out of those lines..... I should have the other ones replaced tomorrow then i can see if the master is worth anything (right now i'm thinking no but with shot lines...)

 

[Grumpy]

There was something special from Santa!
Got up at four AM to swap it in.

Went from 3.23 Open Differential to 4.10 Limited Slip.
(Insert Tim the Toolman grunt here.)

 

[Goldie Driver]

Simple stuff - changed the brake booster check valve and grommet, lubed the front driveshaft, exercised the 4wd on the street, some simple green cleaning action and some fluid top offs.

 

[Camar068]

installed harness today. Below is before and after numbers I took about 6" from the bulb. This is the highest/steady number I could get on each. Yes I've a light meter. Need to replace the passenger side Hi beam (lower bulb). These are Sylvania Xtravision bulbs. No output measured before.....forgot to use marker lol.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Moved it. Put some sand in the rear so it gets traction in 2wd decently. Its ready to plow straight through a snow bank when it gets plowed up in front of it by the neighbor

also pulled the battery to charge and its also a marine battery so i probably should put a regular one in there anyway

 

[AuroraGirl]

Simple stuff - changed the brake booster check valve and grommet, lubed the front driveshaft, exercised the 4wd on the street, some simple green cleaning action and some fluid top offs.

did you change the charcoal/carbon filter thing too

 

[80BrownK10]

Well I'm going to do this to my square next week when I get back home. I have the oil draining now so it can drip most of it out by the time I start. I'm going to roll in new mains and put new rod bearings in. Mine are worn on the mains when I had it apart last year doing work. When I swapped oil sending units I realized I had 15lbs less oil pressure than I thought I had. A faulty sending units was masking this issue, I replaced it cause it was twitching, didn't realize it was also 15# higher than actual. I have confirmed the lower pressure with 2 sending units and also resistance between old and new is different accounting for the difference.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Oh I also had to climb in the damn engine bay to move the damn dipstick tube, it turned down and got behind a spark plug wire and i couldnt spear it with the dipstick so I was pissed at that. It was cold

Also I have a Lot of gas dilution in my oil

be curious to know if thats from fuel pressure, rich running, timing, or wear.
Could do an oil change soon

 

[Goldie Driver]

did you change the charcoal/carbon filter thing too

I changed the filter a while back.

This is a cheap attempt at a solution- somehow, someway, when it is wet outside the brakes have more boost.

At least at first.

So, I figured if maybe that check valve or grommet had a pinhole leak.

Dunno. Almost seemed a little more boosted afterwards, but that could be an optimistic imagination.

Strange.

 

[80BrownK10]

Oh I also had to climb in the damn engine bay to move the damn dipstick tube, it turned down and got behind a spark plug wire and i couldnt spear it with the dipstick so I was pissed at that. It was cold

Also I have a Lot of gas dilution in my oil

be curious to know if thats from fuel pressure, rich running, timing, or wear.
Could do an oil change soon

It could be from a leaking diaphragm in your fuel pump, running rich and a worn engine.

 

[AuroraGirl]

It could be from a leaking diaphragm in your fuel pump, running rich and a worn engine.

OH I Bet you thats it. It had drainback problems before. I am gonna do a fuel pump. I remember reading about that after my TH350 modulator failure research from the buick lol. Good call thank you

 

[Curt]

I have a new starter,alternator,blower fan and power steering pump headed my way.I got roughly 8 years out of all those components,except the hvac fan (original).The rest was remans from oreilly’s! I installed when I put in crate engine.Not bad.They’ll all be returned for spares (lifetime warranty)

I went with new USA made components.The first issue I had was my alternator took a dump.Switched it out already and the reman replacement lasted a week.It gave up on 2nd to last day of deer hunt.So now I have another reman.It’s pretty much giving me the evil eye on start up,then mellows out.And the starter is sounding like a garbage disposal for a second after starting up.

So all new headed my way.PowerMaster.We’ll see.

Anyway,I had a clanking coming from my front passenger side when going over bumps,rocks.Determined the noise was coming from the shocks.What it was,is the inner sleeves was to small for the factory bolt.So I didn’t use them.This was causing pre mature wear of the bushings.Installed new bushings and made sleeves from leaf spring sleeves.Fixed the issue.Does anyone know if the spacer on the upper shock mount goes against the frame or does the shock bushing go against the frame?Was looking at the angle and it seems like it would be better for the shock to be against the frame?