idahovette
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2016
- Posts
- 7,269
- Reaction score
- 15,872
- Location
- Weiser Idaho
- First Name
- Perry
- Truck Year
- 1975-1979
- Truck Model
- K20-K10
- Engine Size
- 350
Wasn't that the objective????
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Only way to get fatter is with what I used to run. Goodyear 31x16.0 slicks. 19.6 sectional & 16.1 tread width. Fills the tubs out just right, but I'm not going that route again. No more bias tires. Can get scary quick with any kind of moisture on the street.Wasn't that the objective????
LMC and different vendors have rear wall carpet that attaches with Velcro, has a bound edge and is a perfect match to the floor carpet. Good sound insulation as well.Today:
Put the new door seals in.
Put the old headliner back in................. a little bit of a challenge by one's self. Cleaned it, looks better outside the cab
Added some of the newly painted trim parts.
Cleaned, painted and reinstalled the rear speaker brackets & speakers.
(I'll have to take them out again when I decide what I'll cover the insulation with, the cardboard tray was a mess)
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Thanks for the info. I'll check that out !LMC and different vendors have rear wall carpet that attaches with Velcro, has a bound edge and is a perfect match to the floor carpet. Good sound insulation as well.You must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attach
Pretty sad when a 2000 4 Runner with a 3.4 V6 has got more oomph than a 350 V8, but proper gears (4:30 from Toyota) and fool injection plus 20 more years of knowledge on how to balance power with emmissions explains a lot of it.
if You find the rotational speed of vehicle based on wheel and engine e rpm etc and the found the hz of the issue it may turn out to be related to power balance in the engine which you can get a good idea on with compression test and I believe watching the head with valve cover off you could check valve train like a weak or sticking maybe inconsistent pushrods etc. But you dec want to determine the fuel is fine first. Could be a simple starts to barely starve , make sure it’s venting right. Does it decrease if you are under less load or increase load? Like in the throttle up a hill vs down the hill at the same speed you definitely want to rule the actual speed of the truck out because chuggle has many reasons but it’s often mistaken. Not often those old of trucks, but one less variable righr.Had a stumble/jerk at highway speeds last week, so I parked her Wednesday night while I got parts. Got plugs, and ordered a fuel filter- that was not in stock.
PS plugs replaced Thursday evening- that's the motors bad side. Also picked up the fuel filter.
Sprayed carb cleaner down the bore while there - can't hurt. Wait - why is there now a puddle on the intake manifold, drivers side, below the carb ?
Dammit.
Nobody stocks a carb gasket- ordered them Friday.
Could not do anything Monday as had to pick the Camaro up from the body shop - hood clear coat bit the dust.
Carb gaskets came in, though, so last night I changed it out via the I am a lazy POS method.
Which means I only disconnected 1 vaccuum line and the fuel line and after taking the mounting bolts out raised the carb just enough to get the old gasket out and the new one on.
There with the fuel line so a new filter went in, too.
Not a scientific method as I did test drive it after the plugs - helped, but did not solve it- and did 2 things at the same time last night.
Oh, well- in her today.
Pretty sad when a 2000 4 Runner with a 3.4 V6 has got more oomph than a 350 V8, but proper gears (4:30 from Toyota) and fool injection plus 20 more years of knowledge on how to balance power with emmissions explains a lot of it.
I think they should! On the truck side, no need to share the other!These just arrived. Hauled butt home to beat the porch pirates. Hope these don't make my rear look fat.
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I still have my 350 long block 73 with all the brackets sitting in the barn! Thinking one day I tear it apart, but why?Think about dropping an LS in there (carbed or stay stock). World of difference from a stock 350. After I did the swap, I kept the old engine/trans incase something happened to the LS. After 6 months, I realized that it would be more work to drop the 350 back in after all the work I did (I stayed stock fuel injection with a 2006 5.3 w/4l60e). I ended up selling for that reason and to get it out of my way.
If I ever get the 'burb or 3+3 I want, I'll do it all over again....that much of a difference.
Something to think about.
Ig
if You find the rotational speed of vehicle based on wheel and engine e rpm etc and the found the hz of the issue it may tu iuirn out to be related to power balance in the engine which you can get a good idea on with compression test and I believe watching the head with valve cover off you could check valve train like a weak or sticking maybe inconsistent pushrods etc. But you dec want to determine the fuel is fine first. Could be a simple starts to barely starve , make sure it’s venting right. Does it decrease if you are under less load or increase load? Like in the throttle up a hill vs down the hill at the same speed you definitely want to rule the actual speed of the truck out because chuggle has many reasons but it’s often mistaken. Not often those old of trucks, but one less variable righr.
Also, you have auto? Torque converter high mileage? Not locking right?
Also make sure your coil is good maybe it’s getting hard to spark at load, speed of engine. Maybe that puppy is tired. Plugs pulled out had no carbon tracking right?
Think about dropping an LS in there (carbed or stay stock). World of difference from a stock 350. After I did the swap, I kept the old engine/trans incase something happened to the LS. After 6 months, I realized that it would be more work to drop the 350 back in after all the work I did (I stayed stock fuel injection with a 2006 5.3 w/4l60e). I ended up selling for that reason and to get it out of my way.
If I ever get the 'burb or 3+3 I want, I'll do it all over again....that much of a difference.
Something to think about.
How much did you order to do all this? Did it come with the tape as well?Doesn't look like a lot, but it's several hours work for me. At least I'm putting something "back in" instead of taking it out/off.
Have some sheets left over, so the vulnerable area like the back panel will get 2 layers.
Definitely does make a difference.
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agree.....thats one thing I have to keep in mind when I get parts.I like the idea of old school staying old school, and think that I can get what I want out of a carbed 350 or 383 stroker.
Dont get me wrong- I have a LS1 in my Camaro SS and for a 146K motor it runs well, but is starting to show its age.
They are a great powerplant, but they are also circa late 90s and Goldie is circa 1980, so for me the classic small block is what belongs in there.
Plus, I can go to the parts store and let the goombas look up the parts and be pretty sure I will get the right one as opposed to the, Oh, God, here we go again- it's a 99 5.3 LS in a 80 truck with a carb- yeah, I know, they did not build it like that scenario.