What have you done to your square lately??

[Powerhouse Ranch]

Say would anyone have a rear end pinion yoke for a 10 bolt, 30 spline with like a 1.96" cup seat i believe? What happened was the previous owner swapped from an automatic to manual (poorly) and swapped to a manual driveshaft for the rear. the rear end cup size on the drive shaft was just barely too big for the 10 bolt yoke and he stripped the yoke, and half-assed that connection, later resulting in the driveshaft to snap. To resolve this, does anyone have or know of where i can get the yoke described above? Is it possible he stole the driveshaft from a 14-bolt manual? Would a 14-bolt 30 spline yoke work on my 10 bolt?

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Vbb199]

Say would anyone have a rear end pinion yoke for a 10 bolt, 30 spline with like a 1.96" cup seat i believe? What happened was the previous owner swapped from an automatic to manual (poorly) and swapped to a manual driveshaft for the rear. the rear end cup size on the drive shaft was just barely too big for the 10 bolt yoke and he stripped the yoke, and half-assed that connection, later resulting in the driveshaft to snap. To resolve this, does anyone have or know of where i can get the yoke described above?

You must be registered for see images attach

Spicer

 

[Blue Ox]

I measured 6.1 from the end of the shaft to the bearing on both but, new one wasn't all the way down. That's why I thought I may have forgotten a shim.

The old one

You must be registered for see images attach

New

You must be registered for see images attach

I think it's the bottom left shim I forgot to put on first.

You must be registered for see images attach

So I think I need to get the bearing off and put shim on first then seat bearing again against the shim. That's what I mean by getting ahead of myself. I'd rather have to buy a new bearing than put it in and destroy more than that. I have a good feeling that's what I'll have to do.

Quick performance gave me a number to call. I'll ask them tomorrow to make sure. Shouldn't have put the bearing on until I was sure about it.

This isn't easy over the internet. Do you have a shim dimension to start with? The photos aren't 100% clear as to what shims are in the new pinion, but regardless, the bearing has to be positively seated. The shims control pinion depth, can you measure pinion depth, or do you have a way to translate between the old gearset and the new?

 

[Danderson]

Spent way too much time this afternoon chasing down an electrical gremlin.

I was driving along and the radio suddenly went dead. Checked the fuse block and found a blown fuse, so I replaced it and all was well.......for about ten miles and the radio went dead again. Same fuse blown.

The radio is an aftermarket Retrosound which I installed about a year ago and has always been problem free. It has two power leads, one switched power which I have plugged in to the IGN terminal on the fuse block, and one constant power which I have plugged in to the fused battery terminal on the fuse block. It was the battery terminal fuse that blew.

I suspected a short somewhere in the radio wiring so I unplugged the radio from the fuse block and replaced the fuse, which restored power to the battery terminal, and began tracing the radio power leads all the way from the fuse block to the radio. No problems anywhere that I could see. I left the radio unplugged and drove the truck down the road a bit then checked the fuse. It was blown. Hmmmm......time to break out the wiring diagram.

The wiring diagram showed that the cigarette lighter was fed from the back side of the terminal that I had powering the radio so I traced the cigarette lighter power wire from the fuse block all the way to the plug on the back of the lighter. No problems that I could see.

I removed the fuse and attached an ohmmeter from the fused side of the terminal to ground. It initially read open which was as it should be, so I began jiggling the cigarette lighter power wire starting at the fuse block and proceeding every few inches to the lighter receptacle, keeping one eye on the meter. As I jiggled the wire at the attachment point on the back of the lighter, the meter went intermittently from open (good) to a dead short (very bad). I had found the problem, or so I thought. There must be an issue with the insulation at the back of the receptacle.

I went through the way too complicated pain in the a$$ process of removing the receptacle so I could get a good look at it. No obvious problem. Hooked the ohmmeter to it and could not recreate the problem on the bench. Everything was tight and checked out electrically so I reinstalled it in the truck. Put the ohmmeter back on it in the truck and still could not recreate the problem. WTH? I took a deep breath and asked myself what was different and it dawned on me that during initial testing I had the lighter element in the receptacle but it was not in there now.

I picked up the actual lighter off the floorboard to look at it and....TADA....the issue was immediately apparent. The end of the element (the part that gets hot) had come unscrewed a bit from the knob and was able to bounce around and hit the shield which created an intermittent dead short to ground.

So......after two hours of troubleshooting the actual fix was spending approximately 15 seconds putting a drop of locktite on the heater element screw and screwing it tightly back into the knob. Everything works as it should again, and I'm glad my beloved K10 is no longer sick, but I do feel like an idiot for taking so much time to find the actual problem. I should have broken out the wiring diagram right away and maybe that would have led me to start with the lighter circuit first instead of immediately assuming it had to be the radio side. Lesson learned.

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

Spent way too much time this afternoon chasing down an electrical gremlin.

I was driving along and the radio suddenly went dead. Checked the fuse block and found a blown fuse, so I replaced it and all was well.......for about ten miles and the radio went dead again. Same fuse blown.

The radio is an aftermarket Retrosound which I installed about a year ago and has always been problem free. It has two power leads, one switched power which I have plugged in to the IGN terminal on the fuse block, and one constant power which I have plugged in to the fused battery terminal on the fuse block. It was the battery terminal fuse that blew.

I suspected a short somewhere in the radio wiring so I unplugged the radio from the fuse block and replaced the fuse, which restored power to the battery terminal, and began tracing the radio power leads all the way from the fuse block to the radio. No problems anywhere that I could see. I left the radio unplugged and drove the truck down the road a bit then checked the fuse. It was blown. Hmmmm......time to break out the wiring diagram.

The wiring diagram showed that the cigarette lighter was fed from the back side of the terminal that I had powering the radio so I traced the cigarette lighter power wire from the fuse block all the way to the plug on the back of the lighter. No problems that I could see.

I removed the fuse and attached an ohmmeter from the fused side of the terminal to ground. It initially read open which was as it should be, so I began jiggling the cigarette lighter power wire starting at the fuse block and proceeding every few inches to the lighter receptacle, keeping one eye on the meter. As I jiggled the wire at the attachment point on the back of the lighter, the meter went intermittently from open (good) to a dead short (very bad). I had found the problem, or so I thought. There must be an issue with the insulation at the back of the receptacle.

I went through the way too complicated pain in the a$$ process of removing the receptacle so I could get a good look at it. No obvious problem. Hooked the ohmmeter to it and could not recreate the problem on the bench. Everything was tight and checked out electrically so I reinstalled it in the truck. Put the ohmmeter back on it in the truck and still could not recreate the problem. WTH? I took a deep breath and asked myself what was different and it dawned on me that during initial testing I had the lighter element in the receptacle but it was not in there now.

I picked up the actual lighter off the floorboard to look at it and....TADA....the issue was immediately apparent. The end of the element (the part that gets hot) had come unscrewed a bit from the knob and was able to bounce around and hit the shield which created an intermittent dead short to ground.

So......after two hours of troubleshooting the actual fix was spending approximately 15 seconds putting a drop of locktite on the heater element screw and screwing it tightly back into the knob. Everything works as it should again, and I'm glad my beloved K10 is no longer sick, but I do feel like an idiot for taking so much time to find the actual problem. I should have broken out the wiring diagram right away and maybe that would have led me to start with the lighter circuit first instead of immediately assuming it had to be the radio side. Lesson learned.

power to ya for sticking it out and finding the problem

 

[Bextreme04]

How far to press it on? All the way, my friend, all the way. If not, the truck will press it the rest of the way and you'll destroy the bearings.

No shims in that collection of parts? Have you measured pinion depth?

That’s what I was about to say too... shouldn’t he have pulled the old bearing off and started with the old shim that is behind that bearing. Then, If the pattern doesn’t look good at the end you can adjust the shims to get correct pinion depth?

 

[Bextreme04]

Got the rebuilt 14BFF, now Yukon Grizzly equipped, installed back in the truck with the shackle flip, 60” 97 K2500 springs, and ORD Kevlar greasable bushings. I still need to clean and prep the rest of the frame and paint everything once I get the front fuel tank crossmember fabbed in and the blazer tank mounted. Had to get it rolling so I can clear room in the shop to regear our

You must be registered for see images attach

2011 Suburban in time for a family trip down into California.

 

[Blue Ox]

That’s what I was about to say too... shouldn’t he have pulled the old bearing off and started with the old shim that is behind that bearing. Then, If the pattern doesn’t look good at the end you can adjust the shims to get correct pinion depth?

Correct. If you don't have the tools to measure pinion depth that is a good place to start. From there you'll have to use the contact pattern to make adjustments.

 

[80BrownK10]

thank you!

Crap, I was busy working on things yesterday. It popped into my head and I obviously forgot when I stopped the next time. I meant to go look in my truck shed and my workshop/storage shed for it. I'm thinking it was coming apart when I removed it and it was junk so I tossed it but I can't say for sure. I'll try to remember to check when I get home this afternoon.

 

[SK 99]

Original ‘85 grille and lights would take it to the next level.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Thanks!

Switching to the '85 grille/lights will definitely be considered in the future.

 

[Camar068]

pic will follow when it's done. I forgot to put anti-seize on 3 bolts on the bumper 3 years ago. Well I've picked up a CUCV type brush guard and went to take the bolts off. Grrrr.....soaking in PB blaster now. Last time it took heat and a 3 foot breaker bar to break them and replace.

Guess what....3 of 4 I need off to install this damn thing lol.

 

[Itali83]

Thanks!

Switching to the '85 grille/lights will definitely be considered in the future.

can someone show me what an 85 GMC grill looks like? 85-87+88 k5’s and suburbans are all the same as far as I’ve seen.

Ben

 

[82sbshortbed]

Pouring down rain here so nothing.

So it's good time to clean up the garage.

 

[Goldie Driver]

Pouring down rain here so nothing.

So it's good time to clean up the garage.

Yup - I sat in this crap for an hour and 40 minute ride home in Goldie.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[SK 99]

can someone show me what an 85 GMC grill looks like? 85-87+88 k5’s and suburbans are all the same as far as I’ve seen.

Ben

There are pictures in his post.....

Original ‘85 grille and lights would take it to the next level.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach