What have you done to your square lately??

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jjester6000

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1974
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C1500
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Took out the rear main? How did that happen? Did you wet the rear main seal with oil before rolling it in the slot between the crank and block? Were you careful to not let the block tear the seal as you rolled it in? A rear main should last for decades, not days. Did you add some black or grey silicone where where the pan gaskets meet the front and rear gaskets at the edges? Not a ton of silicone, but a dollop to seal any imperfections or gaps at the separate gasket surfaces?
I installed it properly, it just started leaking again
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This should explain why the seal went out. The rear main bearing looked just as bad, so I should have gotten one of those offset high mileage seals to compensate for the wear.

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Bextreme04

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I installed it properly, it just started leaking again
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This should explain why the seal went out. The rear main bearing looked just as bad, so I should have gotten one of those offset high mileage seals to compensate for the wear.

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I mean... it doesn't really explain it. If you pulled the caps enough to see that, why not just drop $30 in new main bearings and $20 in rod bearing in there before installing the offset seal. If you slapped the motor back together with bearings looking like that, I wouldn't have even attempted to change anything else... that motors going to go kablooie very soon.
 

jjester6000

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I mean... it doesn't really explain it. If you pulled the caps enough to see that, why not just drop $30 in new main bearings and $20 in rod bearing in there before installing the offset seal. If you slapped the motor back together with bearings looking like that, I wouldn't have even attempted to change anything else... that motors going to go kablooie very soon.
It was like -5F out when I dropped the oil pan to fix this, so I didn't feel like doing more than replace 2 rod bearings that were physically loose.

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jjester6000

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Jack
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1974
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C1500
Engine Size
250
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When I said that this thing is about 60% bondo, I wasn't joking.
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It's got even more bondo than the '74 had when I bought it.
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And rust in a lot of weird places.
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I'm still not quite sure if I want to embark on a project like this since it pretty much needs a new body.
 

Shorty81

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When I said that this thing is about 60% bondo, I wasn't joking.
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It's got even more bondo than the '74 had when I bought it.
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And rust in a lot of weird places.
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I'm still not quite sure if I want to embark on a project like this since it pretty much needs a new body.
Run man...run
 

bucket

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When I said that this thing is about 60% bondo, I wasn't joking.
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It's got even more bondo than the '74 had when I bought it.
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And rust in a lot of weird places.
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I'm still not quite sure if I want to embark on a project like this since it pretty much needs a new body.

I love Burbs, but that looks like a parts truck.
 

gotyourgoat

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gotyourgoat
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smokin' 305
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When I said that this thing is about 60% bondo, I wasn't joking.
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It's got even more bondo than the '74 had when I bought it.
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And rust in a lot of weird places.
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I'm still not quite sure if I want to embark on a project like this since it pretty much needs a new body.
How many spare road signs do you have??o_O
 

Camar068

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10 yrs Air Force
I actually enjoy wiring. Was thinking of grabbing a donor harness and removing a large enough section to splice in so I can have enough extra room to mount all the ecu/computer stuff under the dash instead of in the engine bay

with the stock harness you should be able to mount it there, may have to extend a few though. Would be nice and clean though.

Another tip, hope you don't mind. Once you have everything together take 10 minutes and ohm from every ground pin (on the ECM/PCM connector) to chassis ground to make sure you got them all. Could save hours.
 

Grit dog

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When I said that this thing is about 60% bondo, I wasn't joking.
You must be registered for see images attach

It's got even more bondo than the '74 had when I bought it.
You must be registered for see images attach

And rust in a lot of weird places.
You must be registered for see images attach

I'm still not quite sure if I want to embark on a project like this since it pretty much needs a new body.


If that truck came with $2500 cash in the glovebox, it would be worth about $3.50!
 

80BrownK10

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I was having intermittent charging issues with my truck, so I replaced the alternator with an Advance Auto reman'd unit. It seemed to have fixed the problem for about a week or so until it stopped charging completely. So I took it back to Advance and exchanged it for yet another alternator, and it wouldn't charge either.

At that point, I figured the problem had to lie elsewhere. The plug looked like hell, so I figured that might be the problem.....

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I cut it off and soldered a new plug on, and it didn't make a difference. Well long story short, I replaced the alternator today with a new one from NAPA and so far, so good!

A word of advice, don't buy alternators from Advance. I should have gone to NAPA to begin with.
Or buy a new one or a better quality brand from Rock Auto for cheaper than both those places.
 

Vbb199

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When I said that this thing is about 60% bondo, I wasn't joking.
You must be registered for see images attach

It's got even more bondo than the '74 had when I bought it.
You must be registered for see images attach

And rust in a lot of weird places.
You must be registered for see images attach

I'm still not quite sure if I want to embark on a project like this since it pretty much needs a new body.


I'll probably eat my words later when you post a new thread about the truck you bought.... but that thing is awful. Just part the plastic stuff out, toss the rest lol

If the body is that bad, the frame has to be structurally unsound and really unsafe to drive


If you're wanting yourself a burb for a couple grand, i can look around on my local listings and fwd whatever i find to you, just tell me what you're looking for in a suburban... and..... it'll be 95% clean steel, 0% bondo, 5% rust
 
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80BrownK10

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I recently got a job at my local Maaco, and now I might be buying another square.
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This is what it looked like about 15 years ago.
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This is what it looks like now
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It's more bondo than truck.
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Though it's got a few things going for it like 114k actual miles, an aftermarket A/C system that works, and a motor that runs like brand new.

I still don't know, on one hand I've been wanting a square Burb for a while now, but I'm not one for lowered trucks, so I'd have to bring it back to stock.

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Yep pull all that low riding crap out 9f it and put it back on a stock suspension. Maybe you can get it off one of these lowered truck guys who trashes their stuff. Or can get something off a rotted mess in a tree row
 

Bextreme04

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Eric
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1980
Truck Model
K25
Engine Size
350-4bbl
You must be registered for see images attach

When I said that this thing is about 60% bondo, I wasn't joking.
You must be registered for see images attach

It's got even more bondo than the '74 had when I bought it.
You must be registered for see images attach

And rust in a lot of weird places.
You must be registered for see images attach

I'm still not quite sure if I want to embark on a project like this since it pretty much needs a new body.

I think that thing embodies everything Maaco is all in one vehicle... lol. If they GAVE you that thing, it still wouldn't be a good deal.
 

Ethan Keuning

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Michigan
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R10
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350
Well, what HAVENT I done. Just finished most of my major projects, on to some of the smaller stuff. Has a fresh 350, bored .30 over with ~415 hp. Fully rebuilt 200-4r trans with a shift kit. New brakes all around, 4 inch lowering kit (shocks, springs, bushings, etc.) Keep in mind, this has all been done in about 3 months! Now just gotta put a posi in her. Oh! And a new stereo.
 

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