What have you done to your square lately??

[Vbb199]

If you already getting the driveshaft lengthened, you can just get a 1350 to 1310 adapter u-joint to replace the one on there currently. That 12 bolt is a factory G80 like your suburban, right? I'd just drive it like that until it goes boom and then drop a new yukon in it like you did to the burb.

Thats just it, i dont even think that 12B yoke is even 1310.... its dinky compared to a 1350...

I dont wanna run adapters tho, worried i'll just shatter the damn thing "if" i actually get traction

 

[Bextreme04]

Thats just it, i dont even think that 12B yoke is even 1310.... its dinky compared to a 1350...

I dont wanna run adapters tho, worried i'll just shatter the damn thing "if" i actually get traction

So you'll just put a 1350 yoke on the 12 bolt? What are the odds you'll actually get traction?!?!?!

 

[Vbb199]

So you'll just put a 1350 yoke on the 12 bolt? What are the odds you'll actually get traction?!?!?!

Yes, i can pickup a 1350 yoke for 100-150$ with straps.

As far as traction, i need some meaty tires.

 

[Camar068]

-73 C20- cleanin up under the hood so I can drop a 5.3 / 4l60e in there next week...also tore the column down to the firewall, cleaned it, replaced some stuff with nos parts, new turn signal switch, greased the bearing, new ignition housing and ignition cylinder too, basically a new column with an original 73-76 wheel. Before the new engine/trans goes in, gonna pull the front clip, clean/scuff/shoot the core, paint the new inner fenders, pressure wash the firewall and try to get some shine to it. Keepin the body’s ‘super shitbox’ look but going for a brand-new, show truck look for the engine bay

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take the front end off so you don't have **** in the way. I think I had fenders, bumpers and all off in about 2 hours. Makes life so much easier dropping it in. Then you can clean up/paint your frame.

Just a thought.

 

[John Nes]

take the front end off so you don't have **** in the way. I think I had fenders, bumpers and all off in about 2 hours. Makes life so much easier dropping it in. Then you can clean up/paint your frame.

Just a thought.

Yep! Had planned on doing it just like that

 

[Vbb199]

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I'm not going to let this catastrophic oil consumption beat me, so nothing but the best for 'Ol Yeller (You don't need none of those damn fancy detergents).

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$1.39 a quart at my local gas station, I bought them out of the ****. The truck has to last me just a couple more weeks until I have the time to drop in the new motor.a

Maybe im a bit behind on updates regarding your....
....inline 6?
But with the theme you already have of just kinda patching it up to work (ive done it too many times), why not just spend a day re-ringing it?

 

[Camar068]

Yep! Had planned on doing it just like that

Awesome, you'll love it when it comes to wiring. Another tip, put a positive and negative block on the firewall for any power you need. Get a battery that has both top and side posts. Have the truck run on one set, then the "swap" run on the other on the blocks at the firewall. Probably looking at $80 in cables and blocks, but you've got an easy to reach ground for those you missed/or needed, and a positive as well.

After doing the harness myself, I found out quickly that I had 4-6 ground wires that weren't connected.

Again, Just a thought.

 

[jjester6000]

I recently got a job at my local Maaco, and now I might be buying another square.

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This is what it looked like about 15 years ago.

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This is what it looks like now

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It's more bondo than truck.

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Though it's got a few things going for it like 114k actual miles, an aftermarket A/C system that works, and a motor that runs like brand new.

I still don't know, on one hand I've been wanting a square Burb for a while now, but I'm not one for lowered trucks, so I'd have to bring it back to stock.

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[jjester6000]

Maybe im a bit behind on updates regarding your....
....inline 6?
But with the theme you already have of just kinda patching it up to work (ive done it too many times), why not just spend a day re-ringing it?

Well, most of the oil loss if from the oil leak the oil pan as well as the rear main (I wish they made 1 piece oil pan gaskets for I6's. Replaced both the rear main and oil pan gasket like 4 months ago, and it lasted like a week before it took out the rear main).

 

[Vbb199]

Well, most of the oil loss if from the oil leak the oil pan as well as the rear main (I wish they made 1 piece oil pan gaskets for I6's. Replaced both the rear main and oil pan gasket like 4 months ago, and it lasted like a week before it took out the rear main).

Oh... you said consumption

 

[jjester6000]

Oh... you said consumption

Yea before the leak it would only burn like 1 quart a week.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Well, most of the oil loss if from the oil leak the oil pan as well as the rear main (I wish they made 1 piece oil pan gaskets for I6's. Replaced both the rear main and oil pan gasket like 4 months ago, and it lasted like a week before it took out the rear main).

Took out the rear main? How did that happen? Did you wet the rear main seal with oil before rolling it in the slot between the crank and block? Were you careful to not let the block tear the seal as you rolled it in? A rear main should last for decades, not days. Did you add some black or grey silicone where where the pan gaskets meet the front and rear gaskets at the edges? Not a ton of silicone, but a dollop to seal any imperfections or gaps at the separate gasket surfaces?

 

[Bextreme04]

Took out the rear main? How did that happen? Did you wet the rear main seal with oil before rolling it in the slot between the crank and block? Were you careful to not let the block tear the seal as you rolled it in? A rear main should last for decades, not days. Did you add some black or grey silicone where where the pan gaskets meet the front and rear gaskets at the edges? Not a ton of silicone, but a dollop to seal any imperfections or gaps at the separate gasket surfaces?

Probably has a ring worn in the crank and needed to use an offset gasket or sleeve to keep it from blowing back out again. Re-installing a standard rear main seal on a worn crank will just blow right back out again.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Probably has a ring worn in the crank and needed to use an offset gasket or sleeve to keep it from blowing back out again. Re-installing a standard rear main seal on a worn crank will just blow right back out again.

True. Didn't think of that.

 

[John Nes]

Awesome, you'll love it when it comes to wiring. Another tip, put a positive and negative block on the firewall for any power you need. Get a battery that has both top and side posts. Have the truck run on one set, then the "swap" run on the other on the blocks at the firewall. Probably looking at $80 in cables and blocks, but you've got an easy to reach ground for those you missed/or needed, and a positive as well.

After doing the harness myself, I found out quickly that I had 4-6 ground wires that weren't connected.

Again, Just a thought.

I actually enjoy wiring. Was thinking of grabbing a donor harness and removing a large enough section to splice in so I can have enough extra room to mount all the ecu/computer stuff under the dash instead of in the engine bay