What have you done to your square lately??

[Goldie Driver]

That's too high.

I might notch it down a hair - factory sticker calls for 8 BTDC at 550 RPM in drive.

I don't have a tach, and am setting it in park. So, say it idles at say 750 (SWAG), what would you say is a good number?

I just wanted it advanced as much as I could without clatter.

Thanks !

 

[Snoots]

yes

 

[Goldie Driver]

Rock auto part came in - PVS82.

Put it on- no breakage, no leakage. Cool!

The stem had 44C and 225 - scared me at 1st, but 44C = roughly 112 F , and the factory switch had 110 (F) on the bottom, so that's good.

Decided to check the timing- I guess the camera flash overrode the timing light strobe.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Anyway, it's around the far mark, so 12 ish BTDC.

I really did not retard it much from where it was when I started - it was right around the far edge of the timing tab, but actually within IIRC.

Checked for vaccuum while warm at the EFE - nope. Good.

Checked for vaccuum at the TCC - yep, good. Wonder if the solenoid in the pan is gooped up with particles...

Checked for vaccuum at the EGR when revving the engine- good.

Test drive it, and gas it up.

Feels like it has a midrange lag now, like the timing is getting pulled.

WTF?

Random theory - old broken TVS switch let the distributor run on in essence manifold vacuum.

New one works, so it is getting ported vacuum and any built in delays from the check valve.

Who knows...

Experiments will continue. probably by advancing the timing again.

 

[80BrownK10]

Got a new front driveshaft for our 90 V1500 and the new driveshaft came with a larger front u-joint than the old one. The end caps are 1 1/8" in diameter and the old one had 1 1/16" diameter end caps. The guy at the Auto Value Parts store said this was the only driveshaft listed for a 90. Anyone run across this before? I'm hoping I can just get a combo u-joint and fix that issue.

Buy another u joint and pull the caps off it and replace. Hope the center cross section is the same. If not get a bastard u joint. One of those two size ones

 

[80BrownK10]

Yup wire fell off.... over a week i been dealin with foggy icy windows with no heat! Glad it was simple. Had it not been for @Arkansas_V8 tellin me to hit it with power straight from the battery i probly wouldnta found the power wire not attatched

My blower never cuts off. And I don't think now it changes speed. I need to check the switch and replace it if bad. I don't drive the truck enough to have ever worried about it. It use to change blower speed, now I believe it's always on low regardless of switch position.

 

[Kim Burke]

Been having a blower motor problem that i couldnt find, worked... didnt work then completely no work.... found it, are ya kiddin me?!!!

You must be registered for see images attach

Hahahahahahahahaha!

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[mcarlo86]

Buy another u joint and pull the caps off it and replace. Hope the center cross section is the same. If not get a bastard u joint. One of those two size ones

Tried changing the caps, but the cross is too wide, so I ordered a combo u joint. Just came in today, so hopefully tomorrow I will have time to try that out. Have to finish packing front wheel bearings and install the new brake pads too. I noticed one of the transmission cooler lines is leaking. How hard are they to change? I'm getting anxious to get it off the hoist and drive it again.

 

[bucket]

Hahahahahahahahaha!

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Quality entertainment right there! Know what I mean Vern?

 

[Kim Burke]

“My daddy used to work them”

 

[80BrownK10]

Tried changing the caps, but the cross is too wide, so I ordered a combo u joint. Just came in today, so hopefully tomorrow I will have time to try that out. Have to finish packing front wheel bearings and install the new brake pads too. I noticed one of the transmission cooler lines is leaking. How hard are they to change? I'm getting anxious to get it off the hoist and drive it again.

If it's the hard line I would fix it with rubber trans line, but I'm cheap. Cut it out and put a small flare on the end and slip trans cooler line over it.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I aim for 100 mph out of 10 degrees.

You must be registered for see images attach

Installed the old mans cb from when he was a trucker in the 80’s in the dually can’t believe how many are still on the handle and still crazy as ****. Holes line up for the bracket from last time a cb was under the dash.

Btw I was gonna "like" this again.
Just sayin.
That CB is dope I want one !
I figured that what those holes are..bet tons of squares got the exact ones.

I know the Blue Ox gots em and the '75 did too!

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[legopnuematic]

Rock auto part came in - PVS82.

Put it on- no breakage, no leakage. Cool!

The stem had 44C and 225 - scared me at 1st, but 44C = roughly 112 F , and the factory switch had 110 (F) on the bottom, so that's good.

Decided to check the timing- I guess the camera flash overrode the timing light strobe.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Anyway, it's around the far mark, so 12 ish BTDC.

I really did not retard it much from where it was when I started - it was right around the far edge of the timing tab, but actually within IIRC.

Checked for vaccuum while warm at the EFE - nope. Good.

Checked for vaccuum at the TCC - yep, good. Wonder if the solenoid in the pan is gooped up with particles...

Checked for vaccuum at the EGR when revving the engine- good.

Test drive it, and gas it up.

Feels like it has a midrange lag now, like the timing is getting pulled.

WTF?

Random theory - old broken TVS switch let the distributor run on in essence manifold vacuum.

New one works, so it is getting ported vacuum and any built in delays from the check valve.

Who knows...

Experiments will continue. probably by advancing the timing again.

My 76 before I hopped the engine up I had it based at 11-12 and never gave me any issues. After the engine hop up I have it around 13-14 degrees with 9.0:1 compression and have always ran it on 87 octane. Total timing should be around 35. Have put my foot to the floor many times and have brought it up to its "redline" (5500) and have not shot the pistons out of the headers yet.

So you should be safe at 12 degrees. If you haven't yet already, I would check your mechanical advance and get a curve kit and play with the springs and see if it goes better with a different advance curve

 

[gotyourgoat]

My blower never cuts off. And I don't think now it changes speed. I need to check the switch and replace it if bad. I don't drive the truck enough to have ever worried about it. It use to change blower speed, now I believe it's always on low regardless of switch position.

Early longhood squares had the auto vent (insert proper gm nomenclature) with the fan always circulating. Cowl/hood change started the off designation on the hvac where off for the fan was actually off.

 

[Snoots]

My blower never cuts off. And I don't think now it changes speed. I need to check the switch and replace it if bad. I don't drive the truck enough to have ever worried about it. It use to change blower speed, now I believe it's always on low regardless of switch position.

They are always on low. It's part of the cabin air circulation.

 

[Goldie Driver]

Early longhood squares had the auto vent (insert proper gm nomenclature) with the fan always circulating. Cowl/hood change started the off designation on the hvac where off for the fan was actually off.

"Continuous Ventilation" I believe is the term.