What have you done to your square lately??

[Bextreme04]

Yea I replaced all balljoints, control arm bushings , tie rods, idler and pitman arm, 3 inch drop spindles , rotors/hubs and brake pads. And drop shackles and hangers in the rear. It's like a brand new truck. Just got a little play in my gearbox . but gonna try and make some adjustments to it to see if I can get the play out. If not a quick ratio gearbox will be on the list .

I would recommend you pull the gearbox and adjust the input preload and output shaft backlash. Here’s a procedure I found. I did it on mine and it got rid of almost all of the slack.

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[RedBeard_83]

I would recommend you pull the gearbox and adjust the input preload and output shaft backlash. Here’s a procedure I found. I did it on mine and it got rid of almost all of the slack.

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Thanks for the tip . will have to give it a try .

 

[RedBeard_83]

I would recommend you pull the gearbox and adjust the input preload and output shaft backlash. Here’s a procedure I found. I did it on mine and it got rid of almost all of the slack.

You must be registered for see images attach

Thank you for the tip. I will have to give it a try. I was gonna look into this as well although it seems to basically be the same thing you posted just a small video. But I think what you posted will serve me better than a short video. Thanks again and will update on the progress. I say it time and time again. Very thankful for the members here , the helpfulness , positivity , etc. Just an all around good group of ppl here and very thankful.

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[Catbox]

Our truck has had a random charging issue since the alternator that came on it died a year or so ago.
@Maxwellvis has been daily driving it and the gauge has never really seemed to read much above 12v. Some times it would just barely start the engine other times he would have to charge the battery.

Not long ago it crapped out totally on him.
Dead battery at his buddies house.
Max let his dink bag friend do the electrical testing and figured that the alternator had died again.
They ran to the parts store they both work at and got a fresh rebuilt one and stuck it in there.
Meanwhile the battery was charging while they ran around.

They get back and slap the new thing in there and boom!
**** starts up and Max has to leave shortly after they buttoned it up.
He gets home and the battery is dead again.

Junior yards the new alternator out and takes the other one with him to have them tested.
Brand new one is DOA. Junk was returned to the store.
Old one that is supposed to have been the original issue turns out is good.

So he put that one back in and did some looking around.
Turns out the charge wire from the BATT terminal on the alternator had come out of the crimp connector that is up on the firewall.

There is the actual reason the thing will not charge.

FAST FORWARD A COUPLE DAYS.

Same issue.
Hard starts and not much power coming from the alternator.
It runs iffy and puts out some juice sometimes and none other times.
Never puts out 14.7.
Not once.

The other night he was furious and headed out to work on it, I joined him.
So we did some online sluethery and learned how the GM charging system works.
We have a 12SI 94 amp alternator from a mid 80's Camaro on it.

On the BATT terminal it had battery voltage, 12.something.
It had the constant 12 volts and the switched 12 volts.

**** this alternator.

He was all irritated as he would have to wait to go and get a new alternator in the morning.
I asked about any spares I had in the parts hoard and all have been pillaged and plundered that would have any sort of chance at working in the truck.

I brought up swiping the one from my 1954 Chevy Bel Air.
YOU HAVE TO LOVE THAT PARTS FROM VASTLY DIFFERENT CARS FIT EACH OTHER.

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Well for the most part.
The housing was clocked 180 degrees out, but with enough washers and spacers, we got it made.

Start the truck up and boom!
The alternator made the voltage jump to 14.2 and it amazed the boy!

While we were in there we also changed out the charge wire that was probably original and 12 gauge with a fresh 6 gauge welding cable.
That should help keep things happy as well.

Soon we are going to build a complete set of 0 gauge welding wire battery cables for it as well.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[RedBeard_83]

Our truck has had a random charging issue since the alternator that came on it died a year or so ago.
@Maxwellvis has been daily driving it and the gauge has never really seemed to read much above 12v. Some times it would just barely start the engine other times he would have to charge the battery.

Not long ago it crapped out totally on him.
Dead battery at his buddies house.
Max let his dink bag friend do the electrical testing and figured that the alternator had died again.
They ran to the parts store they both work at and got a fresh rebuilt one and stuck it in there.
Meanwhile the battery was charging while they ran around.

They get back and slap the new thing in there and boom!
**** starts up and Max has to leave shortly after they buttoned it up.
He gets home and the battery is dead again.

Junior yards the new alternator out and takes the other one with him to have them tested.
Brand new one is DOA. Junk was returned to the store.
Old one that is supposed to have been the original issue turns out is good.

So he put that one back in and did some looking around.
Turns out the charge wire from the BATT terminal on the alternator had come out of the crimp connector that is up on the firewall.

There is the actual reason the thing will not charge.

FAST FORWARD A COUPLE DAYS.

Same issue.
Hard starts and not much power coming from the alternator.
It runs iffy and puts out some juice sometimes and none other times.
Never puts out 14.7.
Not once.

The other night he was furious and headed out to work on it, I joined him.
So we did some online sluethery and learned how the GM charging system works.
We have a 12SI 94 amp alternator from a mid 80's Camaro on it.

On the BATT terminal it had battery voltage, 12.something.
It had the constant 12 volts and the switched 12 volts.

**** this alternator.

He was all irritated as he would have to wait to go and get a new alternator in the morning.
I asked about any spares I had in the parts hoard and all have been pillaged and plundered that would have any sort of chance at working in the truck.

I brought up swiping the one from my 1954 Chevy Bel Air.
YOU HAVE TO LOVE THAT PARTS FROM VASTLY DIFFERENT CARS FIT EACH OTHER.

You must be registered for see images attach

Well for the most part.
The housing was clocked 180 degrees out, but with enough washers and spacers, we got it made.

Start the truck up and boom!
The alternator made the voltage jump to 14.2 and it amazed the boy!

While we were in there we also changed out the charge wire that was probably original and 12 gauge with a fresh 6 gauge welding cable.
That should help keep things happy as well.

Soon we are going to build a complete set of 0 gauge welding wire battery cables for it as well.

You must be registered for see images attach

There shouldn't be anymore starting or charging issues after that upgrade ! Doing this is next on my list. I have a cool old sixties cooler that matches my truck well and want to use that as my battery box and relocate my battery to the bed of the truck. And plan on using 2/0 welding cable .

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Bextreme04]

Thank you for the tip. I will have to give it a try. I was gonna look into this as well although it seems to basically be the same thing you posted just a small video. But I think what you posted will serve me better than a short video. Thanks again and will update on the progress. I say it time and time again. Very thankful for the members here , the helpfulness , positivity , etc. Just an all around good group of ppl here and very thankful.

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The part he points out is the second part of the sheet I posted earlier. The first part is the ring around where the steering shaft goes into the box. You need to make sure that is properly adjusted before adjusting the nut and allen key. You can just fudge it on the truck like he says in the video and it will work OK(that's what I did when I replaced the input shaft seal), but the right way is to remove the box and do it while measuring the resistance.

If you do it on the truck, just do small adjustments and then go test drive. You'll definitely feel it when you go too tight, it will not want to return to center and you'll have to fight it.

 

[RedBeard_83]

The part he points out is the second part of the sheet I posted earlier. The first part is the ring around where the steering shaft goes into the box. You need to make sure that is properly adjusted before adjusting the nut and allen key. You can just fudge it on the truck like he says in the video and it will work OK(that's what I did when I replaced the input shaft seal), but the right way is to remove the box and do it while measuring the resistance.

If you do it on the truck, just do small adjustments and then go test drive. You'll definitely feel it when you go too tight, it will not want to return to center and you'll have to fight it.

Ok . I took screenshot of the procedure you posted so I had quick access to it

 

[Vbb199]

Found the source of the whine. Appears the side clutches in my rear end have been demolished, causing excessive spider gear movement, thus whining.... Damnit.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Found the source of the whine. Appears the side clutches in my rear end have been demolished, causing excessive spider gear movement, thus whining.... Damnit.

Nooooo

 

[Vbb199]

Nooooo

while im here drinking beer, im trying to draw a parallel between the car lift incident and all, and the fact i didnt even think to add friction modifier to the rear end after the regear. SURE, not adding the correct fluid has ****** me, but how exactly does the whine from the car lift incident come into play here?

 

[80BrownK10]

Finished her up today. Maybe go lower in the future but It looks good for the time being . happy with the results . now just need alignment and to break in ths brakes as they appear to be a little tight on rotor and cause some squeeling while driving. ( gotta fix that sh*t)

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Does your HOA get on you for your "**** box" truck? Not that I think it's one but those suburban soccer mom's probably do.

 

[80BrownK10]

A family member also choose a poor spot to park it and also the neighbor plowed in a way there was a bank In front. It wasnt terribly hard to unstuck but it was labororous because I have some health stuff and it made me pooped quick

"Health stuff" "pooped quick"

Sounds like you got Corona'd!!!

 

[80BrownK10]

Yesterday I got my secondary throttle plates unstuck. They were stuck close, not sure how long though. Still haven't driven it since I did that.

 

[AuroraGirl]

"Health stuff" "pooped quick"

Sounds like you got Corona'd!!!

I actually got a heart attack... at 22.. its related to some poor choices, exhaustion, and extreme emotional distress.

Im fine now, but I really wish I could take back the last couple months, but the future is forward or some other good feel thing

 

[RedBeard_83]

Does your HOA get on you for your "**** box" truck? Not that I think it's one but those suburban so very mom's probably do.

Its funny you say that. Just the other day when I was working on it they rolled through the neighborhood on their golfcarts looking for violations when they saw me and told me project vehicles like mine could be in driveway during the day but at night needed to be in garage i asked them why I had to park mine in the garage when no other cars had to and they said " well you just started on this truck . it probably doesn't run and it hasn't been painted. My reply " that truck runs and drives and is probably more reliable than your foreign p.o.s. " they got back in the golfcarts and drove away lmao.