What have you done to your square lately??

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dvdswan

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Port Orchard, WA
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Dave
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Had a clicking noise while driving, sounded like it was in the front. Raised the front up found some play in the right front hub, tighten it up and noticed I'm missing the shaft clip. I figured that wasn't enough for the noise, raised up the rear and found a bad u-joint. There's enough play to guess the needle bearings are toast. Time to replace the rear u-joints. Tomorrow after work, time for a beer.
 

coachdtierney54

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Dan
Truck Year
1985
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C30
Engine Size
454
Replaced master cylinder today. Bled the rear drums but can't break free the front bleeders. Any suggestions? BTW, that's not Dr Pepper... Brake fluid from the rear drums.
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silverscottsk10

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trafalgar indiana
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mike
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
Replaced master cylinder today. Bled the rear drums but can't break free the front bleeders. Any suggestions? BTW, that's not Dr Pepper... Brake fluid from the rear drums.
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Heat, map gas in a small torch or use oxygen/acetylene torch, what I had to do on mine, just try to keep the heat on the bleeder, if you dont want to do that let it soak in a penetrating oil, then get a socket that fits and tap it pretty good to shock some of the rust apart

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smoothandlow84

I'd rather be draggin' frame
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Arizona
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Steve
Truck Year
1984 Frame...87 motor and 700r trans
Truck Model
1500 r10 pavement scraper
Engine Size
350 TBI
Pb blaster is always on hand in my shop. I usually spray and let the parts soak at least overnight. You probably already know NOT to use standard box wrenches on bleeders and brake line fittings. It sucks when the fitting get rounded......and if destroyed double flaring the lines and replacing fittings isn't too difficult
 

coachdtierney54

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Dan
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1985
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
454
Not stripped yet.

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dvdswan

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Port Orchard, WA
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Dave
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
I went to replace the u-joints on the rear driveline last night... had the front done in no time, the rear well... it was rusted in, after about 10 minutes of using the vise and rotating the driveline and taping the yoke it finally popped loose. Pulled out the new rear u-joint, looked at it, I thought this looks too big, parts guy gave me a 3/4T rear, back the parts store. Told the counter guy I think you guys gave me a 3/4T rear u-joint instead of a 1/2T one or it was boxed wrong. He apologized checked the number, goes back and pulls another one, same size. I told him this a 1/2T truck, K10, short bed. Well receipt says its a 3/4T... I spent the next 30 minutes trying to get a 1/2T rear u-joint because the first counter person didn't listen and write down what vehicle I had. Needless to say I got home frustrated, tried installing the u-joint, it wasn't lining up, so I left it for today when I get home.

Why is it when you want to drive you truck, little maintenance items and stupid people keep you from it? Don't they know this is therapy?
 

legopnuematic

Licensed Junk Dealer
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Dart Swinger, Sierra 10, C10 Cheyenne, C10 Big Ten, Silverado 10, Ram 2500
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That is why I have started to get the part numbers before I leave and tell the counter person the part number. Have had too many wrong parts, confusion of what the part is.

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dvdswan

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Port Orchard, WA
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Dave
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
That is why I have started to get the part numbers before I leave and tell the counter person the part number. Have had too many wrong parts, confusion of what the part is.

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I used to have part #s when I drove my Blazer. Of course, that was 35 years ago....
 

silverscottsk10

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trafalgar indiana
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mike
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
Many times I have to drive back to next town over to return the wrong part, I need to get ball joints and tie rod ends this weekend, hopefully I dont have much trouble

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silverscottsk10

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trafalgar indiana
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mike
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
k10
Engine Size
350
Wont have to worry about returning parts because they dont have any I guess, anyone know a good place to get a kit of balljoints and tie rod ends? Maybe draglink and steering stabilizer as well?

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Pender1

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SC
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Brian
Truck Year
1986|2014
Truck Model
K5|1500
Engine Size
5.3L|5.3L
While installing my axle shims to fix my rear pinion, I destroyed the threads on one of the ubolts, ordered a replacement and apparently got the wrong one. Waiting on a full set to come in the mail now. For the moment my K5 continues to not have a rear axle actually attached to it.
 

Goldie Driver

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Houston, Texas
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Britt
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
GMC K1500 Suburban
Engine Size
350
Playing with 78c10bigtens suggestion - not as dramatic as results as his, but still - Dam !:eek:

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coachdtierney54

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US
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Dan
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
C30
Engine Size
454
Just put an oil charge and freon in the AC. Ahhhh, much better!

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Kyle Childress

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Brownsville KY
First Name
Kyle
Truck Year
1979
Truck Model
K20 silverado
Engine Size
355
Wont have to worry about returning parts because they dont have any I guess, anyone know a good place to get a kit of balljoints and tie rod ends? Maybe draglink and steering stabilizer as well?

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I ordered a whole kit off of ebay here is the link:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/263100739043

Hard to beat $150 off everything and heck it's not bad stuff. Here is a pic once it was on with the Rough county stabilizer kit. It's only $100 as well.
 

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