What have you done to your square lately??

[Grit dog]

^That spray paint stuff works good on the bottom door panel carpet material too.
I spray bombed all the door inserts on this truck.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

getting it together,slowly!! painted the door panels a charcoal gray,then a light gray suede on the inserts!! The floor mat turned out pretty good too!!

Looks like you need my gray lower door carpet

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[justhorns]

New cup holder! LMC

 

[Ontheboulder]

Looks like you need my gray lower door carpet

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that would work, but I am doing mine over in gray suede

 

[justhorns]

More dumb little things- The white metal cover and black trim under the steering column . Better huh...

 

[Ontheboulder]

well the door panels are back on!! Anyone ever use leather strap instead of the plastic junk for the door pull strap??

 

[justhorns]

Found the rattle! After quieting the cab with dynamat, sealing the vent window with a new latch kit, I still had this big rattle in the parking brake mechanism. Looked and looked, and finally found the parking brake ratchet mechanism was loose. Three bolts total, 2 that go to the firewall, and one more, that goes to the dash structure. The third to the dash was way loose. Tightened it up and my 42 year old truck now goes down the road like a new truck, quiet speaking. It was the bolt shown in the below picture, about in the center, that goes into the white metal. That arm in front of it is the brake release arm.

 

[DoubleDingo]

Found the rattle! After quieting the cab with dynamat, sealing the vent window with a new latch kit, I still had this big rattle in the parking brake mechanism. Looked and looked, and finally found the parking brake ratchet mechanism was loose. Three bolts total, 2 that go to the firewall, and one more, that goes to the dash structure. The third to the dash was way loose. Tightened it up and my 42 year old truck now goes down the road like a new truck, quiet speaking. It was the bolt shown in the below picture, about in the center, that goes into the white metal. That arm in front of it is the brake release arm.

Glad you found the rattle. Rattles are annoying. Some we live with because they can't be fixed, but stuff like that, when fixed, makes a world of difference.

 

[ChuckN]

Today, things are coming together. Last few days have been challenging, sorting out air cleaner spacers to clear the electric choke and the HEI distributor. Ditched carb spacers that were junk and not working, and got a gasket to mount the Edelbrock carb. Tightened up the temp sensor as it was leaking. Got vacuum lines routed (at least for the short term, have some other ideas to clean that up) and the power steering pump sorted. Valves are now checked for tension and re-lashed, and it's cool to see a little bling that I didn't know was under the valve covers. Well, bling for me, roller tip rockers. I knew the engine was rebuilt, but it's nice to have a little sumpin-sumpin that I didn't know was there. I'm huddling inside out of the unseasonably cold weather and scraping the valve covers and preparing for rubber/steel core gaskets so that will be done. After that, new plug wires with boot protectors and cap/rotor.

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[Goldie Driver]

Getting the hang of unhanging the brake valve.

Shut off engine, pump pedal until it releases, then restart and drive off.

I also backed off some of the parking brake cable adjustment I made as despite adjusting the passenger side starwheel out a bit Sunday the drivers side drum still feels hotter to the finger.

Since that side cable gets pulled first, maybe there was a bit of drag - we shall see.

 

[AyWoSch Motors]

Got some new tires for my K20 flatbed.

Rims were free, and I got all 5 of those tires for $75. Like new, good tread, still have the little hairs, 10 ply. Perfect size and it had a matching spare.

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And I got a set for my burb too.
Wheel and tire both free.

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[Ricko1966]

A couple of days ago --- I added some 2 1/2" spacers to the rear differential and they went in OK.

That was done to get the truck more level since I ---- well, read on ....

The way it was ---

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Current pixs to come ---- maybe in a day or so, it's cold out and we expect snow.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^​

The front steering or whatever got to a point where I couldn't hold the truck between the lines very good and the steering box was leaking, so with the steering pinballing and leaking, I replaced it.

Funny that the reman box didn't make a difference to the steering problem, and I next thought that the front springs had settled down (I put snowplow assist-springs on them about 22 years ago) ..... and my guess was wrong as they were not the problem at all.

Those helper springs brought the front end up about 2 inches and although it drove nicely, it always looked overloaded with a trailer on it - even though it starts low that way and really didn't get lower with the trailer on it or not. That was over 18 years ago.

Found it!
What's the chance that two boxes had a loose high center adjustment? --- DOH! I couldda laughed if it didn't cost as much and take as many weeks to fix - finally!
I messed up my own diagnosis!

Now with the rear spacers I feel the u-joints buzzing at roadspeed and a certain "flip-flop" at start up. They are tapered to help point the pinion toward the transfer case --- but maybe not enough huh?

Is there a CV conversion ever done on the rear driveshaft?
Should I just add some tapers to point the pinion even higher?
Can "normal" u-joints survive this sortta changed running angle?\


How come a retired mechanic with 56+ years in the trenches can miss a diagnosis like that? I wouldn't have missed it that badly with a customer --- but for ME? Nope!

Just in case you didn't know or someone else needs to know u joints need to run in the same plane not at different angles. Which means if the transmission output shaft is dead level the pinion needs to be level. If the transmission is pointed down 10degrees the pinion needs to be pointed up 10 degrees. Otherwise you're going to at the least have a vibration because the ujoints will try to bind.

 

[Grit dog]

Finally got the accessory fuse panel rigged up and fuel pump power run to it. Now properly fused like it should be.
Nevermind the rats nest. Haven’t cleaned up the wiring yet.
Also Put a big ole dual purpose marine battery in it. Battery is only a year old. Been sitting around with nothing needing a battery, for a year. Lol
Had some chinesium super duper battery lugs for top post battery. And the threads on GM battery terminals are the same as the set screw threads for connecting large gauge wire. So plug n play to keep using the side lug battery cables with a traditional battery.

Also installed special super secret security system.

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[Ricko1966]

Chuck n #16419 Grit dog #16423 I've seen more than 1 car burn from fuel lines like that. Just trying to help. At the very least run as much hard line as possible with very short rubber lines as connectors. Like the plastic tube rubber connector vacuum hose arrangements.And I'd run a metal fuel filter,down low, so A leak would be under the truck instead of spilling fuel on the motor.

 

[Camar068]

Got a quote today from a reputable shop here in town to replace the windshield. $250 installed w/antenna and no chrome trim.