What have you done to your square lately??

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TotalyHucked

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I haven't touched my truck in over a month since the AC debacle. Couldn't figure out the leak that night, loaded everything up to leave and went down to QuikTrip to fill up. Went to roll up the windows up and they've died now too :mad::mad: So I just parked it and it's sat. Gonna mess with it some more this week and hopefully get them working. If not, a buddy of mine told me about Nu Relic's power window kits, he uses them in all his builds. They're not cheap but he said even with just the key on, engine not running, they fly up like a modern car. That may be the fix.
 

Mr Clean

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@TotalyHucked Wow, your not kidding they are a bit pricey. I think the relay kit is a good option. LMC sells one, Brothers, and we use to have a guy on here that use to sell them also, and for the life of me I can't think of who it is?
 

Old77

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I haven't touched my truck in over a month since the AC debacle. Couldn't figure out the leak that night, loaded everything up to leave and went down to QuikTrip to fill up. Went to roll up the windows up and they've died now too :mad::mad: So I just parked it and it's sat. Gonna mess with it some more this week and hopefully get them working. If not, a buddy of mine told me about Nu Relic's power window kits, he uses them in all his builds. They're not cheap but he said even with just the key on, engine not running, they fly up like a modern car. That may be the fix.
Power Window issues (electrical, motors, regulators,...) is the reason I converted the dually to roll up windows. I got tired of constantly having to have my door panels off to jack with it even with brand new equipment. I hate high maintenance anything and converting to manual windows has helped up to this point.
 

TotalyHucked

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Engine Size
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@TotalyHucked Wow, your not kidding they are a bit pricey. I think the relay kit is a good option. LMC sells one, Brothers, and we use to have a guy on here that use to sell them also, and for the life of me I can't think of who it is?
I've got the relay kit. That's the crazy part, I've got power and good grounds but the relays squeal bloody murder and the windows won't move in either direction. I've swapped relays in the driver's door with 2 different pair and gotten the same result. Gonna pull the pass door panel off later in the week and try those relays, though I don't see why one door failing would have any effect on the other
 

TotalyHucked

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Power Window issues (electrical, motors, regulators,...) is the reason I converted the dually to roll up windows. I got tired of constantly having to have my door panels off to jack with it even with brand new equipment. I hate high maintenance anything and converting to manual windows has helped up to this point.
I was at that point when it happened, figured I'd rob a couple regulators out of one of our parts trucks here and rebuild them. But power windows was one of my requirements when shopping for trucks so I don't want to give up just yet. Manual windows are annoying when you're too short to reach the other door :happy175:
 

Old77

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I was at that point when it happened, figured I'd rob a couple regulators out of one of our parts trucks here and rebuild them. But power windows was one of my requirements when shopping for trucks so I don't want to give up just yet. Manual windows are annoying when you're too short to reach the other door :happy175:
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Old77

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350/350/454
I've got the relay kit. That's the crazy part, I've got power and good grounds but the relays squeal bloody murder and the windows won't move in either direction. I've swapped relays in the driver's door with 2 different pair and gotten the same result. Gonna pull the pass door panel off later in the week and try those relays, though I don't see why one door failing would have any effect on the other
Have you tried a different driver door switch? If that master switch craps out it takes out the whole shebang.
 

gmbellew

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I've got the relay kit. That's the crazy part, I've got power and good grounds but the relays squeal bloody murder and the windows won't move in either direction. I've swapped relays in the driver's door with 2 different pair and gotten the same result. Gonna pull the pass door panel off later in the week and try those relays, though I don't see why one door failing would have any effect on the other
if both windows died at once, I'd be looking hard at the common ground and/or the driver switch. the ground from the passenger window goes back through the driver switch. or at least it does on my 1990 suburban.
 

gmbellew

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my 1990 suburban TBI was cutting and missing. All the computer controls were looking good, so I was thinking ignition system. the cap and rotor looked horrible, so I replaced them. still the same cutting and missing. then I saw one of the plug wires stretched tight across the oil dip stick bracket with burn marks. rerouted the wire and all is well again. going to replace all the plug wires just for good measure this weekend. it's been at least 60k miles since they were replaced....
 

Bextreme04

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Have you tried a different driver door switch? If that master switch craps out it takes out the whole shebang.
This was my thought as well.
 

Ontheboulder

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Well I finally got the seat mounts welded up and now have the new MIP floor mat in the truck.not finished but getting it to relax a bit in the heat. Anyone got any hints on smoothing it out around the 4x4 shifter and the humps?
 

waterpirate

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Heat gun from harbor freight. Worked like a dream.
Eric
 

TotalyHucked

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Have you tried a different driver door switch? If that master switch craps out it takes out the whole shebang.
Yep, put in a new driver's door switch first thing. Granted, I suppose that could bad as well, maybe I should dig out my original to try. I've also checked and cleaned all my grounds on that side. Next course of action is to get the passenger door panel off and see if swapping those relays does anything. It's a long shot but worth a try I guess
 

TotalyHucked

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Engine Size
5.3
if both windows died at once, I'd be looking hard at the common ground and/or the driver switch. the ground from the passenger window goes back through the driver switch. or at least it does on my 1990 suburban.
That was my thought as well. So far, I haven't found anything wrong. I've checked and re-cleaned the dedicated grounds I ran when I did the relay kit and also the ground bus bar under the dash. Unless I have a broken/frayed wire inside the harness coming through the door, which is entirely possible. I need to ohm the wires and see
 

PeteJr

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More work on the "Can of Worms" project.

Bed off, cleaned & pressure washed frame.
Pulled axles out.
Will paint frame, replace rear wheel cylinders, brake lines, broken wheel stud, axle bearings/seals, leaf springs, bushings, gas inlet hose/vent hose and what ever else needs fixin'.
(Yes, rear end grease is smelly)

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