What do I need for a fuel pump replacement?

[AuroraGirl]

Im taking the plunge to replace my pump, finally. But When I went on amazon, I seen a new pushrod and a mounting plate were recommended to purchase as well. Is that a necessary replacement? Or can I just put a pump on? Ive replaced a mechanical fuel pump once before, it was on a ford 400m v8, 77. It was just a gasket and two bolts and some hose clamps and a little maneuvering. And amazon says the AC delco pump doesnt fit, but I have a 3 port pump now(1 inlet, a return, and a line up to the carb) and that by all appearances match, so I was gonna grab that. But I guess I wanted to make sure i wasnt missing anything before I order it all.

 

[Ricko1966]

Okay what carb are you running?

 

[AuroraGirl]

1406 Edelbrock, I decided Id go regulator-less first and see if It gives me trouble. Then I can always add one

 

[75gmck25]

Replacement is easy, and about a 45 minute job if you are lucky.

Removal
- use a flare nut wrench to remove the metal line to the carburetor, and just let it dangle
- remove clamps on the two rubber lines and pull rubber lines off the pump
- use a socket and short extension to remove the two bolts that hold the pump, and pull it straight out to remove. Watch for the pump rod to slide out right after the pump.

Reinstallation
Tricky part is to hold the pump rod up enough so you can get the lever under it while you line up the bolts.
- some blocks apparently have a hole in the front that lines up with the pump rod, and you can insert a bolt to hold the rod up. I’ve never encountered that setup.
- I first use a little RTV on the pump face and slip on the gasket, and then slip the two bolts into the body so they are ready to thread in and it all stays in place.
- Pack the cavity with a little heavy grease (wheel bearing, etc) and push the pump rod in. It might stay in place, but usually not high enough to clear the lever. Then use an old hack saw blade bent at about a 30-45 degree angle to push and hold the rod up.
- slip the pump in from the bottom front at an angle so the a lever pushes up against the rod and hacksaw blade. Once you get the pump almost all the way in you can slip the hacksaw blade up and out.
- start the bolts by hand to keep it in place, then follow up by tightening with a socket. The lever is spring loaded, so the bolts will tighten down slowly and tension the spring. However, it should not take a lot of torque.
- reinstall fuel lines

Bruce

 

[Ricko1966]

1406 Edelbrock, I decided Id go regulator-less first and see if It gives me trouble. Then I can always add one

Look up the thread help trouble starting 350 I found a pump for him meeting the requirements for the edelbrock carb, then he found another, I can't remember numbers on either.Tbread started by curse on May 12th

As for Push rod and plate I've never seen a Push rod or plate worn beyond use.I have measured length before to double check them but only problem besides pumps them selves is cam lobe wearing off.

 

[nabeshin]

I second the use of some grease to hold the rod in there. My rod seemed ok so I reused it and the plate. I didn't use a hacksaw blade to hold it in place when I did mine. Also didn't use any RTV, just hi-tack and new gaskets. I also used thread sealer on the metal line to the carb. No leaks yet.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

Replacement is easy, and about a 45 minute job if you are lucky.

Removal
- use a flare nut wrench to remove the metal line to the carburetor, and just let it dangle
- remove clamps on the two rubber lines and pull rubber lines off the pump
- use a socket and short extension to remove the two bolts that hold the pump, and pull it straight out to remove. Watch for the pump rod to slide out right after the pump.

Reinstallation
Tricky part is to hold the pump rod up enough so you can get the lever under it while you line up the bolts.
- some blocks apparently have a hole in the front that lines up with the pump rod, and you can insert a bolt to hold the rod up. I’ve never encountered that setup.
- I first use a little RTV on the pump face and slip on the gasket, and then slip the two bolts into the body so they are ready to thread in and it all stays in place.
- Pack the cavity with a little heavy grease (wheel bearing, etc) and push the pump rod in. It might stay in place, but usually not high enough to clear the lever. Then use an old hack saw blade bent at about a 30-45 degree angle to push and hold the rod up.
- slip the pump in from the bottom front at an angle so the a lever pushes up against the rod and hacksaw blade. Once you get the pump almost all the way in you can slip the hacksaw blade up and out.
- start the bolts by hand to keep it in place, then follow up by tightening with a socket. The lever is spring loaded, so the bolts will tighten down slowly and tension the spring. However, it should not take a lot of torque.
- reinstall fuel lines

Bruce

I’ve seen it once in a carbed 1989 454. Never on anything else either.

Yeah, you shouldn’t need either, and the hacksaw blade trick works well. I did my most recent one in thirty minutes working that way.

 

[cstew47]

Im taking the plunge to replace my pump, finally. But When I went on amazon, I seen a new pushrod and a mounting plate were recommended to purchase as well. Is that a necessary replacement? Or can I just put a pump on? Ive replaced a mechanical fuel pump once before, it was on a ford 400m v8, 77. It was just a gasket and two bolts and some hose clamps and a little maneuvering. And amazon says the AC delco pump doesnt fit, but I have a 3 port pump now(1 inlet, a return, and a line up to the carb) and that by all appearances match, so I was gonna grab that. But I guess I wanted to make sure i wasnt missing anything before I order it all.

I would replace the pushrod. Why take a shower and put on dirty underwear? I'm not familiar with a mounting plate. Maybe I was just not paying attention.

 

[85K304SPD]

I've never replaced a push rod or mounting plate. Factory stuff is usually better than aftermarket stuff. It "road tested". I usually use the threaded hole in front of the block to hold the pushrod up while installing the new pump, just dont forget to take out the long bolt and replace it with a short bolt when you are done. I dont have any problem with my Edelbrock carb flooding or anything like that. I have the offroad, spring loaded needles.
I don't remember if my pump has a return port, but it would be better if it did. Just my opinion and experience.

 

[fast 99]

Really all you need is a pump, gasket and hacksaw blade. Don't remove the plate. Glue the gasket to the pump. Start the bolts in the gasket. Grab the pushrod with a needle nose pliers or seal pick and push it in. Hold it up with a finger. With a helper [or manually with a bar] turn the engine over until the pushrod is retracted all the way. Insert the hacksaw blade below the pushrod and insert the pump arm below the blade. Remove the blade and start the bolts. If the pushrod is all the way in the bolts can be easily started.

If it has an air pump the lower bracket should be removed for access.

Assuming this is a small block however a big block isn't much different except there isn't a plate behind the pump.

 

[SirRobyn0]

Wow I was going to jump in here, but you guys have given her all the advice I would have. Don't bother with replacing the plate or push rod. And use the bolt hole to hold the push rod during installation.

As for part # @AuroraGirl If you want me to I can look up the AcDelco part # here at the shop for you.