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Yes, when this happens, I want to raise the price.....You will have people come over and look at it that will pi$$ you off so bad you want to shot them. They will tell you everything that is wrong with it so they can get it cheaper.
I have a 1978 C15 that I've had for a year and a half. It is fully inspected and I drive it weekly. I have done the following work to it...
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs/wires replaced
Master Cylinder replaced
Power Brake Booster replaced
Alternator replaced
Transmission service
Speedometer cable leak fixed
Rear end service
Seat reupholstered
Seat cover
Vent window rubber replaced
Valve cover leak fixed
Shocks replaced
Rear wiring harness replaced
Tail light covers replaced
Fuel pump replaced
Fuel gauge replaced
Heater control relay replaced
Window glass rubber replaced
Door weather stripping replaced
Temperature sending unit replaced
Water pump replaced
Distributor cap and rotor replaced
Front End (both inner and outer tie rod ends, pitman arm, upper and lower ball joints, idler arm) replaced
Steering box replaced
Front end alignment
Oil pan gasket replaced
Timing Cover gasket replaced
Blower Motor replaced
Window regulators replaced
Driver side door hinges replaced
Temperature gauge replaced
Radiator replaced
Radiator hoses replaced
Battery replaced
It runs perfectly. Sometimes I have to pump it once when cranking. I have an extra set of wing windows to go along with it. I live kind of close to Dallas. I know that different areas of the country will get different values. I know that the paint is pretty oxidated, espec ially the hood and roof, but it has absolutely no rust. The hood is perfectly straight, no wrinkling at all. I bought this as a father/son project, but the closer it gets to being done, the less interested he is in it. That and I've had some medical bills piling up.
I would say 2-3k, but if you did a polish on the paint with Old No. 7 and some elbow grease, then a coat of wax, it would shine up pretty nice.You must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attach
Yup, same with the OBS trucks. Shortbeds are for hot rodding; real trucks that earn their keep have 8' beds!Alot depends on the area of the country you're trying to sell the truck in. For instance, the C-15. I would knock 1K off because of no working AC. I'm in the Houston TX area. Working 4 wheel drive add a grand. Emission equipment in working order is a big deal to some people.
Looking at it I'm in the 4-5K range. The body is nice, you have done most of the maintenance work to make it a daily driver. We can't see how the under carriage looks from the pics.
I'm amazed at how rusty some of the projects are on this site. The trucks from the great white north and mid-west are horrible underneath.
I agree that the paint doesn't matter much in trucks in the lower price range. In fact, if you're going to daily drive it you won't worry about a rock chip, door ding etc. The real cost is in the metal repair, body work, and paint. I'm jealous of the guys that can weld in repair panels and such. Good luck with it whatever you decide.
I read in your post that you are located in Texas. The truck being a long bed, and having a non-working AC really drops the value. At least in the Houston area. It's a shame most guys want to drop them, put a LS in them and make them a sport car. err (truck).
Can still hot rod a long bed truck. They are way safer on dirt roads because the a$$ end is easier to control when it starts sliding out around a curve. A shortbed will most likely be almost too far gone by the time you realize it and you spin out. Both are fun, but I prefer a long bed for fun and work.Yup, same with the OBS trucks. Shortbeds are for hot rodding; real trucks that earn their keep have 8' beds!
Where’s the shifter for the 208?Wanting to buy a house in a year or so. I’m looking to offload either my K10 or E30 to help w a down payment.
Rebuilt NV4500/2005 5.3LS i have receipts for everything. New interior w kilmat sound deadening. New brakes, suspension (fox rear/kyb front both adjustable). Dakota digital gauges, PSI harness, and ECU. Has new tires on it. Working 4x4 with NP208. Setup for AC on the LS/ECU but not an AC truck.
only cons are it leaks a little bit from the front main. About a drop every 2-3 weeks. And the 3.08 gears.
Truck has new speakers/sub/wires ran but just a cheap headunit for mock up.
Here’s what it looks like.Where’s the shifter for the 208?
Did you have to notch the front left corner of the 208 shifter’s trim piece?Here’s what it looks like.
Wow, clean and LOTS of new parts. You’ve basically done 80-90% of all of the “little stuff” that these old trucks need varying amounts of.You must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attachYou must be registered for see images attach