U-joint replacement recomendations

[nabeshin]

I think I need new U-joints for my 76 K10.

What brand is good? Are all u-joints on both driveshafts the same? I think there are 5 total, 3 up front and the two in the rear. The front axle u-joints are probably fine. I am trying to eliminate a vibration above 50mph.

What is 1310 style? I see some with letters after, is that important for location on the truck? I can guess that CV would be for the double joint on the back end of the front drive shaft.

Any help will be welcome.

I am also getting polyurethane engine and transmission mounts. Does the transfer case have a mount? I can't remember off hand, and the truck is out in the cold cold barn...

 

[legopnuematic]

I have used Dana Spicer joints in my 76 and like them, good price, made in the USA

 

[75gmck25]

I replaced the front driveshaft U-joints (3, all the same) in my '75 K25 a few months ago and I just went to RockAuto and picked a set from the Heavy Duty category. Not even sure which brand I picked. Found several recommendations to use non-greasable, and they fit and worked well. Make sure you also grease the slip joint in the front driveshaft.

One of my old (greasable) U-joints was in really bad shape and had destroyed the centering yoke, which was making all kinds of clicking noises as the driveshaft changed orientation while it rotated. This is the yoke.https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=356910&cc=1159073&jsn=609&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86+AYIh3BPX4eQfsOgXBYlCXO7QpFPWnxpXaGb8UFGVI6aItz6Sy/pDU3Ov/PICiF2AiYdfoQA/Qdy4N77u/bUBT07Ntjt8hD9QRVlB1xSUQuVSAOLw5ARY7ESOijlzxK2+jzuDKNFtcShIlborGB4woD5pRBGZ8iWmuzj9c4+RplYoIZ7U3/5fIhnX758KfxMYorev4XNai+sOC8gXTnXiBMIviz+bud8C28b53rnWjit4wSP5SFEDSSMzN8VzB283NI+HSb9o4l2q6rz0ueJcHCFraNfPSb+sLct2

1310 style are the stock U-joints and they will work fine. 1350 is stronger, but not needed for a relatively stock vehicle.

Bruce

 

[Poppy 87]

1310 style are the stock U-joints and they will work fine. 1350 is stronger, but not needed for a relatively stock vehicle.

Those numbers (1310 and 1350 indicate size not strength

 

[Scotty D]

Those numbers are that driveline companies go by.
The numbers have to do with the style and size of cap, width of the yoke.
Usually can’t go wrong with a name brand (spicer, Dana, Lipe, etc.) if you get one with a grease fitting, just be sure to index it so the torque of the driveshaft is turning against the grease fitting.

 

[75gmck25]

I should have been more clear. The 1350 U-joints would be stronger, but your driveshaft would also have to be designed to use the larger size U-joint.

Some guys with large tires switch to a 1350 driveshaft and U-joints. However, there seems to be a lot of debate about whether the 1350 is really that much better overall because the smaller diameter 1310 driveshafts have better operating angles, and may provide a little more clearance for skid plates. YMMV.

Bruce

 

[1979k10]

U joint sizes. Your best bet is to measure each one and order the size you measure.

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[nabeshin]

Lots of good info, thanks.

I'll go with Dana and USA made. Looks like I'll have to remove them all to measure.

 

[Rusty Nail]

I only use SOLID U-joints.

 

[nabeshin]

So non-greaseable joints are better? Assuming one keeps up on greasing, is there any increased lifespan to the joints? I hear that about 100k out of u-joints is what to expect, so solid sounds just fine for my purposes.

 

[Rusty Nail]

You answered the question.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

I’ve gone with the DANA-Spicer serviceable. They’ve been fine, but I can understand the theory behind sealed ones. Whatever you do, I’d say order them online because they’re a rip off at the store!

 

[80BrownK10]

I’ve gone with the DANA-Spicer serviceable. They’ve been fine, but I can understand the theory behind sealed ones. Whatever you do, I’d say order them online because they’re a rip off at the store!

As with most parts these days. Rock Auto gets most of my business on stuff that I can pre plan for or wait a few days on parts to repair.

Advance auto parts wanted about $50 for one rotor for my wife's Sequoia, I got quality rotors and quality pads delivered for about $10 more than one rotor. Even useing online coupons I saved about $50 by useing Rock Auto. Also don't forget your 5% off coupon from RA.

 

[nabeshin]

I use Summit Racing for what I can, or I buy from napa in my podunk town.