Tried to break in the new motor today, no crank.

[MylesNT]

Nothing. At all. Power to lights and gauges. Nothing when I turn the switch. Carried the starter to O'reilly's and it is fine. Changed the fusible link on the firewall. Changed the ignition switch and neutral safety switch. Still nothing. I'm ******* pissed. Been waiting on this forever. Worked on it all day with nothing to show for it. Please. Give me some ideas.

 

[350runner]

Jump it with a screw driver for now

 

[MylesNT]

I was really aggravated and not thinking straight. You made me remember this option. Thanks man.

 

[chengny]

When you say you are breaking in a new motor, does that include a new cam/lifter set as part of the procedure?

If so, you might really want to get the starter working normally - before you do the break in. It is critical to avoid extended crank time (at the initial start) when a new cam/lifter set is involved.

Think about it, you are going to have to deal with the no-crank issue eventually. Why not figure it out before you begin the break in process.

The last thing you need - when doing a new cam break in - is a "Chinese fire drill" situation.

I'm sure you can figure out why the starter won't crank by the key:

If it bench tests okay, you can eliminate the starter/solenoid

If the ignition switch/NSS are known good, turn the key to the START position. You should get voltage (on the purple wire) where it connects to the solenoid - at the R or S terminal.

If you do get voltage at the purple wire, your control circuit is good. Next, check the condition/connections of the primary power cables:

1. The main hot cable from the battery positive to the solenoid
2. The main ground cable from the battery negative to the engine

Make sure the connections are clean/tight and that the copper is not broken under the insulation.

Just my opinion.

 

[theblindchicken]

Aren't there fusible links between the battery and the starter? Should give those a look see.

 

[MylesNT]

Thanks for the input guys. I did start the motor with a jumper wire and it fired up like a champ. But I have an oil pressure issue. Once I check a couple things out on that front I'm going to chase the wiring down and figure it out. I'll start with the "S" wire and if its dead I'll check the fusible link and get back to y'all. Thanks again.

 

[MylesNT]

So I did a little troubleshooting today. Per chengny's advice, I started with the purple wire at the starter. No power. I followed it back to the NSS and finally figured out it wasn't adjusted right. Once I got it set, I had power to the purple wire with the switch in the START position. Bolted everything back up and hit the switch. It fired right up. But the starter wouldn't disengage. I shut the switch off and it stopped. That's a problem.

I double checked the wiring at the starter. Everything was good. So I tried it again. As soon as I turned the switch to the ON position, not START, just ON, the motor cranks and the starter stays engaged.

I disconnected the purple wire and turned the switch back to ON. No power to the solenoid. With the switch turned to START, it has power just like it should. So I hooked it back up. It still cranks in the ON position, and the starter doesn't disengage.

I did replace the ignition switch, and I thought that it might be adjusted wrong, but if that was the case, the purple wire would be constantly hot, and it's not.

Any ideas?

 

[MylesNT]

I finally got it all worked out. The original problem was the NSS, which I had replaced, but had not adjusted properly. The second issue turned out to be the starter solenoid, which I replaced with a new starter while I was at it. Everything is acting like its supposed to. Even got to really drive it today. Thanks for the help y'all.