Transfer Case Brace

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nvrenuf

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It’s pretty easy, just start by bolting it to the side of the tcase. The bar will line up with the correct bellhousing bolt.
 

Mango

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Well got it done today had to move the starter back to remove the bolt and nut I installed a while back when replacing the starter! Never realized that the hole was threaded in the engine bell housing area!
Used a 3/8 x 16,1-1/2" Blue lock tight seems to be solid
Also loosened the transfer case rod bolts and re torque them
On to the next project
 

Mango

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@RaisedK5 Thank You Where did you find that ? I have been looking for two weeks At least now i know It was done correctly
 

RaisedK5

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@RaisedK5 Thank You Where did you find that ? I have been looking for two weeks At least now i know It was done correctly
Page 7D-10 of the 78 service manual. I have a few manuals downloaded that I look through regularly so I only had to look thru a couple before I found it.
 

ButchM

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Does anyone have a photo or a Diagram
Gil,
Way late to this party but I hope it helps. I recall that the bellhousing bolts were always 3/8-16 but not sure now. Maybe they are close enough as to be interchangeable. This is from a Chevrolet parts department catalog from back in the early 90's (when they still used them).
I believe you were asking about bolt and washer, part numbers 2 and 13 in the diagram.
 

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kkgp81

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For the above post here is a view of the Tejas crossmember from the front. It looks like there is plenty of room for exhaust/shaft.


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Strick

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The strut brace is there to (help) keep the transfer case from breaking the tailshaft from the transmission. In '81 (or so) the additional bumpstop for the differential was added as well. Years back the old-timers would tell me about the carnage to the driveline when getting airborne on these trucks. I have certainly pulled more of these braces off than I have ever put back on; same for removing the bumpstops after adding a suspension lift. They'll never contact so I get them out of the way.

HS
 

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