Tie rod ends shot. Ball joints too?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

bigcountry78

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Posts
3,678
Reaction score
8,806
Location
Hickory, North Carolina
First Name
James
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
After some investigation into me front end popping noise, I’ve decided that I’ve got a bad tie rod end. I’m going to go ahead and do both ends. But would It be a good idea to go ahead and do All four ball joints as well? What brand is the best to go with? Any surprises I should be aware of ahead of time??
 

HOTFOOT

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 29, 2020
Posts
473
Reaction score
1,031
Location
northwest ct
First Name
michael
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
gmc k3500 srw
Engine Size
400
Go to rock auto and get moag problem solver, get the 5% discount code and save even more.
They are a vendor on here.
 

Jethro224

Full Access Member
Joined
May 11, 2020
Posts
107
Reaction score
112
Location
Illinois
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
For the last 18 of the 25 years I got paid to work on cars and trucks they called me a "suspension specialist". I don't recall ever hearing a tie rod make a popping noise.
Did you check the steering box to frame bolts and the frame for cracks under the steering box?
If the ball joints are bad, replace them. Otherwise only if you want to and have plenty extra of time and money.
Moog always made very good replacement parts in my opinion. Just avoid cheap stuff no matter the warranty.
 

Blue Ox

Turning Diesel Fuel Into Fun
Joined
Mar 27, 2018
Posts
5,202
Reaction score
11,971
Location
LI-NY
First Name
Derek
Truck Year
MCMLXXXV
Truck Model
K20HD
Engine Size
6.2L
I don't have the book in front of me, but there are procedures for testing components for wear. I'd be looking at that instead of just randomly guessing whether things are worn out just because other things are.

Not saying that wear of one component isn't a cause for concern, but I'd still be looking for some standards. Particularly since you seem to have an asymmetrical wear issue.

Also, I don't have lot of faith in some aftermarket parts. My original "maintenance free" ball joints lasted longer than any aftermarket ball joint I ever installed.

BTW, not impressed with Moog. TRW isn't in the market anymore, but I've had 10X better luck with their products.
 

1987 GMC Jimmy

Automobile Hoarder
Joined
Jan 23, 2016
Posts
5,848
Reaction score
2,389
Location
Mississippi
First Name
Jesse
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V1500 Jimmy
Engine Size
350
Did you check the steering box to frame bolts and the frame for cracks under the steering box?

This was the first thing I thought of. A thump or a clunk might be more in line with a tie rod end, but I’ve seen them sloppy with no noise.

Your steering’s not binding where you can see the stress unburden as that pop sound? If that’s the case with this tie rod end, I’ve heard of plenty crazier things. Is the stabilizer loose or damaged? I’ve been dreading this type of work because of the lukewarm approval on brands like Moog, Mevotech. I want to save money, but I don’t want to buy trash. The AC Delco professional line generally commands better reviews. I see Delphi has some, too, and I’m curious about the Proforged.
 

bigcountry78

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Posts
3,678
Reaction score
8,806
Location
Hickory, North Carolina
First Name
James
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
My dad was under there, I wasn’t. He said he saw the leaf spring bushing under the cab moving a lot more on the driver side than the passenger side. Definitely noted the passenger side tie rod end needed to be replaced. He at first also thought the pitman arm may be worn out, but we’re not positive about that. He didn’t see anything else that looked abnormal.

I have noticed that the noise is being made more and more compared to when it started. Also, last night I needed 4wd to move my trailer and noticed the popping became much more frequent while it was engaged. Noise is made just turning steering wheel back and forth. Truck doesn’t have to be moving. It’s on stock suspension, factory wheels and 31’s if any of that matters. I don’t believe the frame is cracked at the steering box. I’ve looked there best as I can and haven’t found any.
 

Jethro224

Full Access Member
Joined
May 11, 2020
Posts
107
Reaction score
112
Location
Illinois
First Name
Jim
Truck Year
1980
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
Could possibly be the axle u-joint.

If it will still make the popping noise with the front up on Jack's, maybe try removing the tie rod from the knuckle and turn the knuckle back and forth by hand. If it still pops it ain't the tie rod.
Then you could pull the axle shaft out and see if it stops.
 

bigcountry78

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Posts
3,678
Reaction score
8,806
Location
Hickory, North Carolina
First Name
James
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
K10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
350
Did ball joints today. Huge, HUGE thank you @Vbb199 for bringing your tools and know how to my house. Y’all this guy hauled his tools and his family to come hang out with me and my family all day and put new ball joints and tie rod ends in my truck. He even drove me to the parts store! Did one side for me, and then walked me through the other side. He is a stand up guy!! Still waiting on a couple parts from rock auto, but once it’s all said and done the front will be good. I’ll be doing spring bushings this week while I wait on my rock auto order. I’m really anxious to see how it drives afterwards, as both my ball joints and tie rod ends were way past due. Everything else looked good though, including the rest of the steering linkage, the frame around the steering box, and the box itself. The spindle nuts were also not nearly as tight as they should have been.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,085
Posts
949,078
Members
36,165
Latest member
Norm310
Top