Thoughts on this?

[89Suburban]

http://certechgels.com/products/

 

[da_raabi]

hmm... Sounds like a "miracle juice" kind of thing. I wonder what happens when the stuff wears off and starts clogging oil passages?

 

[HotRodPC]

Sounds like another Pro Long or Slick 50 type product. Different of course but making some the same claims but going even further claiming to be an engine rebuild in a bottle.

 

[ScottyB]

Knee jerk reaction is that this is just another mechanic in a can, and those are never what they claim. The concept is intriguing though. If I ultimately decide to go with a different engine in M&M I may volunteer to try this out on my existing engine to see how it works.

To keep things fair, I should address my rear main and distributor leaks in advance and keep running as is afterwards to get a good baseline. I would also be tempted to rebuild the heads up front to make sure the valves are tight and this product doesn't do anything for the heads. I'm thinking that those repairs shouldn't be that expensive to undertake, maybe just a bit time extensive.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

I say... __ (not you 89S)

... I don't believe the claims. If this stuff actually does what it says, it would be a magic elixir in the tool and die trade. We would be mixing this stuff with our lubricant and our form steels would never gall up or need to be coated.

Their site says... "CerTech Gel uses the heat of your engine and the microscopic metal particles floating around in your oil to create a ceramic and metal surface that is harder and smoother than the original metal parts." We have steels coated with ceramics and other various materials, but the coating company is usually taking these steels to 700* to 1000* in order to coat them. I don't believe the oil in engines gets hot enough, and the fact the parts are ALWAYS MOVING would severely hinder the process.

The oil analysis they did proves nothing. All their claims are based on repairing the actual metal, nothing to do with the oil. The "before" and "after" pictures of the cylinders can't be trusted. The before pictures are with the engine still assembled. The after pictures look like a bare block, one right after being machining at that. I am not believing those pictures.

Give me a free sample and we will see. Until then... B.S.

 

[HotRodPC]

And I'd only TRY IT FOR FREE on a well used motor that I didn't care much about. I'd be in fear of the crap tearing up a good motor.

 

[ScottyB]

I'm not too concerned about it tearing up the motor. My thought is that it wouldn't live up to the hype. That is why I would be willing to try it only after I had decided I was going to go with another engine anyway. Since I haven't made that decision yet I guess this won't be happening here for a while.

 

[HotRodPC]

When I hear GEL in a motor, I for sure am concerned about tearing up my motor.

 

[heffalump]

Sounds like ******** to me..

 

[da_raabi]

I'll give you some additive experience. I love telling this story, because it is the reason I stay away from almost ALL additives in engines etc.

I was a given a 99 Dodge Durango with the 5.2L 318 in it. Not a bad engine, plenty of power, but it kept losing oil pressure on the gauge, replaced the sender a few times, still nothing. Finally one day it just doesn't start, well after finally getting it started and limping it home I decided a new motor was in order. I bought a crate engine that needed a few parts off the old one. Suffice it to say this is what I saw:

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After doing a little research I found out the P/O used Slick 50 religiously. Well thats apparently what it does, it gunks the living crap out of the motor. I was literally SCRAPING the oil off the bottom of the intake manifold with a paint scraper. NOT GOOD.

SO, when I see these fancy additives and fixers etc I get really, really leery. I won't trust it as far as I can throw it! If it was that good the manufacturers would be using it to begin with. Unless you need to clean old junk out, I would never add anything to my oil no matter what, unless its a junk engine anyway that you just need to keep running for a few days. Just my 2 cents (okay maybe 5).

 

[bucket]

I'll give you some additive experience. I love telling this story, because it is the reason I stay away from almost ALL additives in engines etc.

I was a given a 99 Dodge Durango with the 5.2L 318 in it. Not a bad engine, plenty of power, but it kept losing oil pressure on the gauge, replaced the sender a few times, still nothing. Finally one day it just doesn't start, well after finally getting it started and limping it home I decided a new motor was in order. I bought a crate engine that needed a few parts off the old one. Suffice it to say this is what I saw:

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

After doing a little research I found out the P/O used Slick 50 religiously. Well thats apparently what it does, it gunks the living crap out of the motor. I was literally SCRAPING the oil off the bottom of the intake manifold with a paint scraper. NOT GOOD.

SO, when I see these fancy additives and fixers etc I get really, really leery. I won't trust it as far as I can throw it! If it was that good the manufacturers would be using it to begin with. Unless you need to clean old junk out, I would never add anything to my oil no matter what, unless its a junk engine anyway that you just need to keep running for a few days. Just my 2 cents (okay maybe 5).

That right there could just be from a severe lack of oil changes. Maybe the guy figured he didn't need to change it because he put miracle foo foo in the oil?

 

[da_raabi]

Thats what everybody says, but he was religious about oil changes too, he took good care of the truck, he just used Slick 50...

 

[ScottyB]

Thats what everybody says, but he was religious about oil changes too, he took good care of the truck, he just used Slick 50...

Exclusively? Or as an additive?

 

[HotRodPC]

What that reminds me of is, an OLD Penzoil motor. The parafene based motor oils would do that, especially if you stretched oil changes. Back then you really did need to change your oil every 3000 miles. That parafene is like candle wax.

 

[MrMarty51]

What that reminds me of is, an OLD Penzoil motor. The parafene based motor oils would do that, especially if you stretched oil changes. Back then you really did need to change your oil every 3000 miles. That parafene is like candle wax.

Every since I seen an engine that the guy had used pennzslop oil in, I would never ever use that crap in anything I own. that stuff is juz plain O~L nasty.
A guy comes into the shop, years ago when I was still in H.S. and He had a terrible rocker arm/lifter noise. Pulled the covers and the rocker shafts, they was full and plugged with parafene and the rocker shafts was worn down to the point of breaking.

If I was going to use anything that would coat the inside of the engine, I would use a "Moly" base oil or else find out what UPS was using for oil back in the early eighties.
I disasembled a ford engine for a rebuild { Not My truck} that had come from a UPS van, the inside of that engine was like the inside of a teflon coated frying pan, just wiped it out with a shop rag and it was clean.
After the disasembly I had the block, sheet metal, bolts, etc all boiled in the hot tank, when they come out of the tank the next day, everything was clean and that teflon coating was still there and solid, I`d say that was some mighty good stuff. Look for teflon base engine oil.