Thoughts on Buying a Cheap 2nd Gen Camaro?

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

While I am intimately familiar with the GMs of the period thanks to my current collection of vehicles, I wondered what the deal was with these F Bodies in the 1977-79 range. I think that's how old the one I'm interested in is. How "hot" are they right now and/or in the foreseeable future? About how much would a non-running one like this one go for? Any other thoughts?

The former band director at the community college in my hometown and my former trombone tutor wants to get rid of his to the point were he told me (somewhat facetiously I hope) that he wishes someone would steal it, but he would sell it to the right buyer who would give it a good home. I think he's somewhat motivated so I can't envision myself paying very much. I just wouldn't be able to. He told me the rust situation is pretty much surface only, and the problem that's left it there is an electrical one where it draws too much amperage on startup, and even with a good battery, it'll barely spin over. Sounds like a pretty basic electrical issue: a partial short, fusible link, etc. I haven't seen it in a while, but IIRC the interior is pretty tired, especially the dash and carpet, but it's pretty solid overall and a well equipped little car. I don't remember anything glaringly wrong with it. It might be a fun one to restore, put a hot 350 (TPI might be cool but a Quadrajet setup would likely be my go to) or a 454 in it, redo the interior, and go for it. I'm not gonna deal with penetrative rust beyond the small floor pan hole, and being a Mississippi car, I wouldn't expect any of that anyway, but I imagine the aftermarket is really supportive for these F Bodies in terms of dealing with the interior and trim parts. Is that the case? I know y'all like pics so I'll bless you with a Google Maps image of the car's rear end. Sorry, that's all I got.

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[CSFJ]

Last I looked they were pretty warm and getting hotter. Up in the great rusty north, you cant touch a solid one for less than 5 or 6k. And thats just solid, if you want nice, your knocking on the 8k door. Iirc aftermarket support is pretty good, and I would expect to get better. The Pontiac f cars have been retarded in price for a while now, and the Chevys are finally gaining traction and catching up. One of the guys I hung around with in high school had a '74 with a very healthy 454. That car was a blast.

 

[Crispy]

When I was about your age I bought a running driving non rusty 1979 Trans Am with a 301 for $1500. This about 15 years ago now. That same $1500 today will get you a roller, a basket case, or something that will require a tetanus booster before working on it.

Being that's a T-top car and that oppressive southern sun may have dry rotted the seals have a good look up and down the A-pillar and windshield base. When looking at the rear, open the trunk and look around the area where the hinges come up. Thats a notorious spot that collects water and goes bye bye.

Positive side is that while they arent as hot as early 2nd gens (70-73) there is an appreciating market for them for the right car. Theres also a ton of aftermarket support. I'm of the mindset that if you have the space to keep them dry, buy as many cool cars as you can. They are a savings account you can enjoy.

Also, if you're gonna do the work for TPI go LS!

Buy it, buy it now.

































Did you buy it yet?

 

[Swims350]

what's th eprice on it?

As others said down south you can buy em running all day for cheap sometimes, and up north forget it a rust bucket see thru floor car goes for 2-3 or at least they ask that much LOL.

I sold my 79 to bucket and I have a 79 trans am now was supposed to be in good shape.

PULL THE CARPET!!!!!!! go see the car and check the carpet under it front and rear as much as possible. Check the areas around the t-tops well even try and pull the rubber seals back some in the outside corners if possible to check it, and around the windows.

They are bad for rot in the lower corners of the windshield, sometimes visible without removing the glass, others hidden. Mines got rot in the lower cowl under the wiper motor area, it's a low spot and I guess lays full of junk.

the rear frame rails where they meet the torque box and floor pans are bad for rot too it seems both mine had it.

The rear tailpans always rot, even on a nice car, ot a huge deal it's under and behind the rear bumper, lay down and look up you'll see it.

All in all if it's cheap enough all the parts are pretty much repop'd and if not I've seen alot of guys on nastyz28 or fb parting out clean CA cars. If you can weld in panels or can afford to have it done, not a big deal.

Now you know how tv is but on tv they go nicely done for like 10-20k depending on the car. The trans ams and firebirds go for more then camaros.


I think I would try and stay under 2k maybe even see if you can get it for like a grand or a bit less. Tell him you wanna build it and get it back going and what would it take to buy it.

 

[yevgenievich]

Cheap old vehicle is always a can of trouble. Make it run and just drive it

 

[bucket]

Last I looked they were pretty warm and getting hotter. Up in the great rusty north, you cant touch a solid one for less than 5 or 6k. And thats just solid, if you want nice, your knocking on the 8k door. Iirc aftermarket support is pretty good, and I would expect to get better. He Pontiac f cars have been retarded in orice for a while now, and the Chevys are finally gaining traction and catching up. One of the guys I hung around with in high school had a '74 with a very healthy 454. That car was a blast.

I agree with those figures.

The late 2nd gens have been on a steady increase for a long time now. No matter what the condition, they have basically doubled in price the last 15-20 years. However, they are also old enough now that finding many parts in good used condition is nearly impossible, so you are stuck spending more money on new parts.

 

[1987 GMC Jimmy]

what's th eprice on it?

As others said down south you can buy em running all day for cheap sometimes, and up north forget it a rust bucket see thru floor car goes for 2-3 or at least they ask that much LOL.

I sold my 79 to bucket and I have a 79 trans am now was supposed to be in good shape.

PULL THE CARPET!!!!!!! go see the car and check the carpet under it front and rear as much as possible. Check the areas around the t-tops well even try and pull the rubber seals back some in the outside corners if possible to check it, and around the windows.

They are bad for rot in the lower corners of the windshield, sometimes visible without removing the glass, others hidden. Mines got rot in the lower cowl under the wiper motor area, it's a low spot and I guess lays full of junk.

the rear frame rails where they meet the torque box and floor pans are bad for rot too it seems both mine had it.

The rear tailpans always rot, even on a nice car, ot a huge deal it's under and behind the rear bumper, lay down and look up you'll see it.

All in all if it's cheap enough all the parts are pretty much repop'd and if not I've seen alot of guys on nastyz28 or fb parting out clean CA cars. If you can weld in panels or can afford to have it done, not a big deal.

Now you know how tv is but on tv they go nicely done for like 10-20k depending on the car. The trans ams and firebirds go for more then camaros.


I think I would try and stay under 2k maybe even see if you can get it for like a grand or a bit less. Tell him you wanna build it and get it back going and what would it take to buy it.

Yeah, this is along the lines of what I had in mind. Offer $750 and see if I can get it for a thousand. It’s been sitting right there for the last fifteenish years. I already mentioned wanting to fix it up. Next time I’m back that way, I’ll swing by and see what’s going on. He told me even if he’s not there to just help myself.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Five hundred.

Buy it.

 

[Swims350]

Cheap old vehicle is always a can of trouble. Make it run and just drive it

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^^^^^^^^^^ best advice ever completely true, I wished I had stuck with my original plans for my TA or even the camaro I sold andy and my big lifted 83 square.

 

[Hatchet54]

If you can do it cheap, go for it. Heck if you can do it for 1000, that's a no-brainer. Even if you get rid of it you can probably make a profit.

That was always my favorite body style for the Camaros.

 

[CorvairGeek]

Those aftermarket t-tops will definitely add to the body flex, for which those are already known.

 

[bucket]

Those aftermarket t-tops will definitely add to the body flex, for which those are already known.

Those look to be factory t-tops. The car in the picture actually reminds me of mine when I got it from Chris.

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[CorvairGeek]

Those look to be factory t-tops. The car in the picture actually reminds me of mine when I got it from Chris.

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You may be right. Jesse's pic looks like it has a the stainless band around the perimeter for the aftermarket cut (like aftermarket sunroofs too), but I won't swear to it. I guess the bigger question is whether there were OEM reinforcements on factory T-Tops. I assume (you know what happens when you assume) the aftermarket installers got away with cutting the cars and letting them flex excessively.
IIRC there was some GM product that was know for stress cracking windshields with age with T-Tops. I grew up in the rust belt, so EVERYTHING was eaten away before it was very old.

 

[78C10BigTen]

Those look to be factory t-tops. The car in the picture actually reminds me of mine when I got it from Chris.

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Always loved the look of them cars with cragars and big fat rubber!! Mmm

 

[bucket]

You may be right. Jesse's pic looks like it has a the stainless band around the perimeter for the aftermarket cut (like aftermarket sunroofs too), but I won't swear to it. I guess the bigger question is whether there were OEM reinforcements on factory T-Tops. I assume (you know what happens when you assume) the aftermarket installers got away with cutting the cars and letting them flex excessively.
IIRC there was some GM product that was know for stress cracking windshields with age with T-Tops. I grew up in the rust belt, so EVERYTHING was eaten away before it was very old.

There's a trim strip around the perimeter of the glass. They fade and get a kind of bronze/silver tint. The inner structure of the roof is what gives back the support due to the lack of a full roof skin.

The aftermarket tops were much smaller, leaving a wider section of roof in the center.