"The Highway Hauler"

[Old-beat-up-77]

SM465 broken down and cleaned up. Just got to work on the cases and then its on to re-assembly.

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[kickdeez]

The biggest "problem" I've had with my 454/sm465/np205 combo when towing is the wide range between gears, especially on hills. I have 3.73 gears in my axles and have run 33" and 35" tires. With no trailer, it runs the highway and all over town perfectly. I'd even say on flat highway, it pulls a trailer fine once I'm up in 4th...70-75 with that 454 just a humming. When I hit any sort of grade with a trailer, she is a dog. I'm either lugging it down in too high of a gear, or screaming wide-ass open in too low of a gear. There is no perfect gear in a SM465 for towing (in my opinion).

An overdrive transmission like the NV4500 will allow you to put deeper gears in the axles, use your 1:1 transmission gear as your pulling gear, and then use overdrive when the terrain allows. The Ranger Torque-Splitter (or super expensive Gear Vendors) is a great option because you can split all of your gears, and gives you an overdrive. The Ranger would take some getting use to, and the Gear Vendors is cost prohibitive for most.

Honestly, I'd say just put your 465 back together and run it. See how you like it for what you need it to do. If it doesn't suit your needs, there are other options available depending on your pain threshold.

 

[Old-beat-up-77]

The biggest "problem" I've had with my 454/sm465/np205 combo when towing is the wide range between gears, especially on hills. I have 3.73 gears in my axles and have run 33" and 35" tires. With no trailer, it runs the highway and all over town perfectly. I'd even say on flat highway, it pulls a trailer fine once I'm up in 4th...70-75 with that 454 just a humming. When I hit any sort of grade with a trailer, she is a dog. I'm either lugging it down in too high of a gear, or screaming wide-ass open in too low of a gear. There is no perfect gear in a SM465 for towing (in my opinion).

An overdrive transmission like the NV4500 will allow you to put deeper gears in the axles, use your 1:1 transmission gear as your pulling gear, and then use overdrive when the terrain allows. The Ranger Torque-Splitter (or super expensive Gear Vendors) is a great option because you can split all of your gears, and gives you an overdrive. The Ranger would take some getting use to, and the Gear Vendors is cost prohibitive for most.

Honestly, I'd say just put your 465 back together and run it. See how you like it for what you need it to do. If it doesn't suit your needs, there are other options available depending on your pain threshold.

Hmmm... Maybe I aught to call it the "Byway Hauler" instead, eh? LOL

 

[F-64]

What is your budget?

 

[Kim Burke]

I see. They used the 1/2 gear lube 1/2 water mixture. That way it saves some money lol

Water cooled too!

 

[Old-beat-up-77]

What is your budget?

Depends on how much of a paycheck I have after bills.

 

[Rusty Nail]

Here's a few pics...

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Damn, thar's cool.

Great post ^^^ @kickdeez
I agree, i'd run it too.

 

[F-64]

Just throw out a number.. We have no idea what to suggest that fits within your budget.
Many of these options above are great but they add up fast.

 

[Schroedum]

Well our situations are definitely different, but I still have 2.5ish highway rear gears in my C10 w/TH350. I can move down the highway just fine with that setup and the truck doesn't seem to mind (except for a driveline buzz, I need new U-Joints). But I have a mild cam and head setup going on which helps torque my way through the gears. More than all that though I wanted to recommend looking into some sort of EFI. I have a Holley Sniper which im not exactly recommending specifically, but the extra MPG isn't half bad to have and it runs pretty good.

 

[Old-beat-up-77]

Just throw out a number.. We have no idea what to suggest that fits within your budget.
Many of these options above are great but they add up fast.

I cant throw out a number when there isnt a number to throw. Half of this project is funded by hopes and dreams... and kindness of others (that's how I got the TH350 AND an NP203 for free).

Trust me I would love to put a set value on this project but the truth is... there isn't.

 

[80BrownK10]

I cant throw out a number when there isnt a number to throw. Half of this project is funded by hopes and dreams... and kindness of others (that's how I got the TH350 AND an NP203 for free).

Trust me I would love to put a set value on this project but the truth is... there isn't.

If your useing left over money after bills , you can say I can dedicate $50/month or $150/month toward it. Then when I have $1500 or 2000 or whatever your limit is that's your budget?

You can't really say I will use whatever money is left over each month without planning. Cause if there is something you need and you don't stash it away you will never accumulate the funds. Cause if you need to buy that $600 part or rebuild or whatever but you only have $200 left this month you will never buy it.

Most people are basically in the same boat as you. We just either save it up and buy it or buy parts at the time and then go building or rebuilding. I don't think many people here just throw money at it and never consider the amount they have put into it. Some do I am sure but I bet most have an idea of the target budget....then blow that out of the water

 

[Frankenchevy]

I don't think many people here just throw money at it and never consider the amount they have put into it. Some do I am sure but I bet most have an idea of the target budget....then blow that out of the water

Not paying attention/intentionally losing track is my preferred methodology.

 

[F-64]

Well, knowing that.
All I can recommend is to lower your friction, reduce your rolling resistance, cut aero drag, lower your weight and keep your speed down.
Save the rest for gas. These trucks are heavy, old technology, and have the aero of a cinder block. It gets expensive fast if you want efficiency with heavy and bad aero.

 

[Kevin S]

Well, knowing that.
All I can recommend is to lower your friction, reduce your rolling resistance, cut aero drag, lower your weight and keep your speed down.
Save the rest for gas. These trucks are heavy, old technology, and have the aero of a cinder block. It gets expensive fast if you want efficiency with heavy and bad aero.

=synthetics where you can
=high-pressure pizza cutter tires v. monster truck look, just like the factory recommends
=no lift kits exposing the underside to unnecessary drag +airdam+skirts.
=maybe a vacuum gauge to monitor & educate your right foot

Heresy for old-skoolerz that snort milk through their nose if concern is expressed over modern gas or EPA smog rules or global warming is real. But hey its your wallet dribbling dollar bills if ya don't mind staying poor. The first and best modification is to "adjust the nut behind the wheel..."

I added an OBDII ScanGuage 2 for my most modern vehicle (2000 Mazda MPV) with OBDII port. Good device for instant feedback if you are serious about improving mileage.
https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-ii/

 

[Kevin S]

More than all that though I wanted to recommend looking into some sort of EFI. I have a Holley Sniper which im not exactly recommending specifically, but the extra MPG isn't half bad to have and it runs pretty good.

Would enjoy discussing your findings on this. EFI is on my wish list, hoping to get better mileage, easier cold-weather starts, proper leaning at higher altitude, etc.

How much of a gain did you record going from carb -> Holley Sniper EFI? City/Highway/Towing under load, etc. General comments. Also did some work on my 454 BBC (upped compression 9-1 / mild roller cam 112LSA 205/215 full roller rockers / peanut ports OUT oval-port heads IN / Doug Thorley THC-303Y-c Tri-Y headers / 2.5 duals) so your experience may be applicable here....

Currently a noisy ****** with open headers till I get the exhaust sorted this week. These headers are thick 3/8 steel, ceramic coated, fit real nice, Tri-Y design is great for bottom-end torque, and yes the price matches quality at nearly $700. Only my wallet has regrets.

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I need some nudging to convince me the pain of changing to electric fuel pump / return system and doing (another dream project) second tank for extended cruising range.

Currently have longbed with 20gal tank. When cruising and refill at 1/4 tank getting 10-11mpg@80mph it means stopping every 2hrs or so for 15gal of gas and empty the other tank of used coffee/lemonade. I need the stretch, but not comfortable wandering too far from open gas stations with that sucky range. And if towing and dropping nearer 6mpg... Currently this pig needs to stay close to the fuel ****.

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