TH400 issues

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jfrancom101

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I finally have my truck running, still have a couple small things to work out but its going well. I started it today and tried to drive it. and in drive it engages properly and feels good, I however wan't able to get reverse to engage. Going into 1st you hear an feel the motor adjust as it engages, but reverse doesn't at all. I can rev up and nothing. I tried moving the shifting rod up and down to see if I missed the spot but couldn't seem to find anything. I believe that it was working before. Any thoughts?
 

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If it goes forwards and not backwards, it's going to have to come apart. Time to pull it.
Joe
 

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Before pulling it out, there are some things to check. What’s the fluid look like?

Does the truck have a good solid reverse? If so, most likely the direct clutch is good. The direct clutch provides 3rd gear, however it becomes the driving clutch for reverse. Did the problem happen all at once, or has it been a problem that just keeps getting worse?

Drive the truck, accelerate to about 25 mph. Put the shifter in 1st gear, there should be an immediate downshift and very noticeable engine braking. If not, you may have a cracked low/reverse servo piston which can be fixed with the trans in the truck. It will require valve body removal.

If the servo piston isn’t cracked, the trans has a solid 3rd gear, but no engine braking, most likely the band has either broken, or the band is smoked.

If the fluid is cooked, it probably needs to come out.
 

jfrancom101

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Sorry for the long delay. The truck was stuck in the mud and without reverse its tougher to get out. I'm going to see if I can test that, the transmission fluid is kinda a darker red. I'm thinking back, before doing some engine work the reverse did work, so a few months ago. The engine wasn't running right so it might have been slipping and I wouldn't have noticed, but a this point it doesn't even go in gear. Just acts like it's in neutral. I almost wonder if part a vacuum line or something got a leak while I was working in the engine bay. Could that make a difference?
 

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Nope, if the vacuum line is removed it should still go into gear, it will just have a very hard engagement and delayed upshifts.

One other thing to try: get it out on the road around 30 mph. Pull the shifter into second gear, then pull it into 1st gear. It should immediately downshift into each lower gear. If it goes into 2nd, but not 1st, you have a low/reverse band issue. The servo could have a cracked piston, or the band could be burnt or broken.
 

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We are fortunate to have Matt around for his tranny expertise. Definitely a forum asset. Too bad I don’t own a truck with an auto. Maybe I need another truck…
 

jfrancom101

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Nope, if the vacuum line is removed it should still go into gear, it will just have a very hard engagement and delayed upshifts.

One other thing to try: get it out on the road around 30 mph. Pull the shifter into second gear, then pull it into 1st gear. It should immediately downshift into each lower gear. If it goes into 2nd, but not 1st, you have a low/reverse band issue. The servo could have a cracked piston, or the band could be burnt or broken.
Ok. I'll try to do that test. I tried to drive it yesterday just in my field because I don't want to get stuck on the main road with no reverse, but I'm experiencing another issue to. it seems like the front brakes are slightly stuck engaged. The field is mostly matted down grass a little wet from the snow but driving on flat ground the back wheels kept turning but the truck came to a stop. both rear wheels turn well so I am guessing the something is up with the front wheels. I'll need to figure that out as well
 

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The rubber lines can be degraded over time and collapse. That will hold the brakes partially applied. The first thing I would do is check fluid level and smell on the trans. You should have a "cold" mark that can be checked running in park when fluid is cold and then hot hash marks to check in park when fluid is up to operating temps. If the fluid is not at the cold level when first started and in park, you need to add fluid. If it smells burnt, you likely have a real problem that is going to require at least dropping the pan.
 

Matt69olds

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We are fortunate to have Matt around for his tranny expertise. Definitely a forum asset. Too bad I don’t own a truck with an auto. Maybe I need another truck…

Thanks for the endorsement! I’m glad people appreciate my contribution, at the same time I’m sure they dread it because it usually means bad news!!
 

jfrancom101

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The rubber lines can be degraded over time and collapse. That will hold the brakes partially applied. The first thing I would do is check fluid level and smell on the trans. You should have a "cold" mark that can be checked running in park when fluid is cold and then hot hash marks to check in park when fluid is up to operating temps. If the fluid is not at the cold level when first started and in park, you need to add fluid. If it smells burnt, you likely have a real problem that is going to require at least dropping the pan.
So I don't see any obvious messed up lines. the fluid level is good. I'll climb under the truck to take a better look. Right now it is just in my field. Could I loosen the bleeders and then drive back slowly would that completely release any braking that is happening? obviously before I take it diving I'll have to find whats causing the issue because I can't drive without brakes
 

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So I don't see any obvious messed up lines. the fluid level is good. I'll climb under the truck to take a better look. Right now it is just in my field. Could I loosen the bleeders and then drive back slowly would that completely release any braking that is happening? obviously before I take it diving I'll have to find whats causing the issue because I can't drive without brakes
Yes. If you open the bleeds and the brakes are still stuck, then either the calipers are frozen or the drums are welded to the pads... it happens sometimes when trucks sit for a long time in a field.
 

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Thanks for the endorsement! I’m glad people appreciate my contribution, at the same time I’m sure they dread it because it usually means bad news!!

Lol, I'm prepared for bad news. I've got a TH400 that may be dying so I'll thread jack a little. Light throttle, trans shifts fine. Mediun/heavy throttle, the 2-3 shift was absolutely terrible after pulling a 9k load one day. I dumped in a bottle of Lucas, it seems it actually did improve things after a few weeks. The 2-3 shift is definitely still soft compared to the 1-2 shift. I've not really got on the throttle much since then. But I have been pulling a 9-11k load everyday for the last week or so and it hasn't died yet.

I'm assuming that something is getting smoked? Fluid looks and smells fine.
 

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Ok. I'll try to do that test. I tried to drive it yesterday just in my field because I don't want to get stuck on the main road with no reverse, but I'm experiencing another issue to. it seems like the front brakes are slightly stuck engaged. The field is mostly matted down grass a little wet from the snow but driving on flat ground the back wheels kept turning but the truck came to a stop. both rear wheels turn well so I am guessing the something is up with the front wheels. I'll need to figure that out as well
Well its better to plan where you turn around if you otherwise are confident enoguh to use it on the road. Like a small incline and a wide open area and be ready to let gravity pull you moving then use the wheel to turn and once you have enough turn around go forward. but thats basically a country road with visibility and an elevated shoulder thats wide and hoping that isnt the only issue to deal with lol.

Lol, I'm prepared for bad news. I've got a TH400 that may be dying so I'll thread jack a little. Light throttle, trans shifts fine. Mediun/heavy throttle, the 2-3 shift was absolutely terrible after pulling a 9k load one day. I dumped in a bottle of Lucas, it seems it actually did improve things after a few weeks. The 2-3 shift is definitely still soft compared to the 1-2 shift. I've not really got on the throttle much since then. But I have been pulling a 9-11k load everyday for the last week or so and it hasn't died yet.

I'm assuming that something is getting smoked? Fluid looks and smells fine.
is it an unrestored original build you think? Is the fluid you using just universal dex/merc or maybe a type F? it may sound stupidly dumb/simple but I managed to fix E4OD issues on f150 (albeit overheating and puking fluid) with unscrewing the top(easiest to reach) cooler line and using a can of compressed air and shooting a little up the line and letting it yank a little fluid out and then a little burst at the cooler

I forget which direction it flows the lines but I cranked the truck and pushed fluid out of the cooler and some dribbled back out the line. The cooler was too restricted.

and final bit that may be worth a thought is the dipstick original and is it a later 80s? 90s? I cant remember if I rear about the incorrect dipstick length in ford tsb or GM but making sure its the right level I guess you never know.

-those old coolers for years game gm issues because the slightest debris or restriction would kill remans or warranty replacements especially if there had been catastrophic failure. So much so they required flow testing and flushing them whenever there was a big service. and the cooler in that radiator may be has some hard deposits inside. The oxidation test between dex iii and dex vi was night and day and the TH400 is from the days of DEX I and II, which had organic additives. dex ii turned unslightly shortly after being in the trans and that could possibly make seeing what condition it was in and maybe was left too long etc.
:happy107:
I hope its not too bad tho
 

bucket

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Well its better to plan where you turn around if you otherwise are confident enoguh to use it on the road. Like a small incline and a wide open area and be ready to let gravity pull you moving then use the wheel to turn and once you have enough turn around go forward. but thats basically a country road with visibility and an elevated shoulder thats wide and hoping that isnt the only issue to deal with lol.


is it an unrestored original build you think? Is the fluid you using just universal dex/merc or maybe a type F? it may sound stupidly dumb/simple but I managed to fix E4OD issues on f150 (albeit overheating and puking fluid) with unscrewing the top(easiest to reach) cooler line and using a can of compressed air and shooting a little up the line and letting it yank a little fluid out and then a little burst at the cooler

I forget which direction it flows the lines but I cranked the truck and pushed fluid out of the cooler and some dribbled back out the line. The cooler was too restricted.

and final bit that may be worth a thought is the dipstick original and is it a later 80s? 90s? I cant remember if I rear about the incorrect dipstick length in ford tsb or GM but making sure its the right level I guess you never know.

-those old coolers for years game gm issues because the slightest debris or restriction would kill remans or warranty replacements especially if there had been catastrophic failure. So much so they required flow testing and flushing them whenever there was a big service. and the cooler in that radiator may be has some hard deposits inside. The oxidation test between dex iii and dex vi was night and day and the TH400 is from the days of DEX I and II, which had organic additives. dex ii turned unslightly shortly after being in the trans and that could possibly make seeing what condition it was in and maybe was left too long etc.
:happy107:
I hope its not too bad tho

Original dip stick. Dex/Merc. I'm unsure of the history, except I do know for sure that the PO had the flexplate and converor replaced. I didn't ask why, but the inspection cover says that convertor bolts were ejected at a high rate of speed. I've been driving it for 4 years now I think, it has always felt to me like it has a very mild shift kit.

I'm ok if it fails, I've got way cooler things I can swap in. I just want it to last long enough to finish relocating all my vehicles.
 

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Thanks for the endorsement! I’m glad people appreciate my contribution, at the same time I’m sure they dread it because it usually means bad news!!
Hey Matt, don't mean to steal another members thread here, however with my TH400, if I put the foot down at around 55-60 mph kicks back to 1st. I end up throwing the belts off the water pump and alternator. Any advice appreciated.
 

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