Steering arm cone washer removal

[Westislander]

looking for advice on removing the steering arm cone washers on my 85 K10. I have douched it with PB Blaster; heated it cherry red, and beat the piss out of it with a 2.5lb hammer..... so far one popped.... theses things suck

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[K201979]

Id say repeat the process, bad as i wish i had something better to tell you. Try hitting in different spots? The meat of the steering arm, down between the cones and the knuckle is what worked for me. I got pretty frustrated, but i guess mine wasnt that bad cuz just pb and a bfh popped them out eventually. Now that one is out maybe itll let it move better and the rest wont be too bad. If all else fails, maybe a bigger fh. Good luck!

 

[CSFJ]

Just like the shampoo bottle says, "wash, rinse, repeat". Is about all you can do.

 

[bucket]

You for sure need a bigger hammer. 4 lb minimum.

The penetrating oil helps, the heat is a waste of time, imho. One trick you can try, thread the nuts on until flush with the top of the studs, then hit downward on the tops of the studs. That trick always works wonders on the cone washers used with big truck axles, which is basically the same deal. I've always got the arms off just by beating the snot out of them.

 

[Craig 85]

I can't recall if your truck is lifted or not. If it's lifted and doesn't have a raised steering arm, I'd just cut/torch the arm.

 

[Westislander]

So my next question, hypothetically, if the studs were to get....um, say slightly damaged (absolutely beat to **** In a fit of rage) they must thread out correct?

 

[dhenderz]

For what it's worth I would not recommend hammering on the top of the studs. Yes, they are replaceable (they thread in). But hammering on the top of the studs isn't applying force where you want it. All you're doing is applying force downward thru the studs into the knuckle - which isn't going to move anywhere. What you want is the steering arm to pop off (upward). When I rebuilt mine, which I admit wasn't anywhere near as rusty as yours, I used the air chisel. Using a flat blade lined up between the arm and the knuckle, hammer the blade between the 2 parts. This forces the 2 parts apart.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[dvdswan]

I've always did the 5-8 lbs. hammer and hit the arm on the bend or where the drag link attached. Torsional twist when hitting it helps. Never hit the bolts, this adds more trouble. You're not going to hurt the arm.

 

[donnieray]

Mine were pretty rusty but eventually gave up the ghost. I hit them from different angles and cussed at them a lot. I kept the nuts on the studs though and didn't damage the studs. I was told the cone washers were next to impossible to find but apparently that's not true. Good luck.

 

[donnieray]

For what it's worth I would not recommend hammering on the top of the studs. Yes, they are replaceable (they thread in). But hammering on the top of the studs isn't applying force where you want it. All you're doing is applying force downward thru the studs into the knuckle - which isn't going to move anywhere. What you want is the steering arm to pop off (upward). When I rebuilt mine, which I admit wasn't anywhere near as rusty as yours, I used the air chisel. Using a flat blade lined up between the arm and the knuckle, hammer the blade between the 2 parts. This forces the 2 parts apart.

You must be registered for see images attach

Where can these be purchased sir?

 

[dhenderz]

Just google Dana44 knuckle stud kit. Here are a few that pop up -

https://www.desertrat.com/i-23340303-dana-44-steering-knuckle-stud-kit-3.html

http://www.chassisunlimited.com/pro...g-knuckles.html?dir=asc&mode=list&order=price

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D443STUD.html

 

[Craig 85]

Where can these be purchased sir?

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D443STUD.html

LMC sells the locking nuts and cone washers too, way more than Ruff Stuff.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D443STUD.html

 

[bucket]

For what it's worth I would not recommend hammering on the top of the studs. Yes, they are replaceable (they thread in). But hammering on the top of the studs isn't applying force where you want it. All you're doing is applying force downward thru the studs into the knuckle - which isn't going to move anywhere. What you want is the steering arm to pop off (upward). When I rebuilt mine, which I admit wasn't anywhere near as rusty as yours, I used the air chisel. Using a flat blade lined up between the arm and the knuckle, hammer the blade between the 2 parts. This forces the 2 parts apart.

You must be registered for see images attach

You can't say it doesn't work if you haven't done it. I have no explanation for the physics of it, but it does work to pop the cones loose. An air hammer on the end of the stud actually works better, but I assumed one was not available since a small hammer was being used.

But you are correct, it's better to smack the steering arm to reduce the risk of damage.

 

[donnieray]

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D443STUD.html

LMC sells the locking nuts and cone washers too, way more than Ruff Stuff.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/D443STUD.html

Nice, good to know. I did mine about three years ago and it seems like I couldn't find the cone washers then, reused the originals.

 

[Craig 85]

Nice, good to know. I did mine about three years ago and it seems like I couldn't find the cone washers then, reused the originals.

GM still sells them for $13 ea. P/N GM 3965138.