Starting Problems

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Steve123

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Posts
12
Reaction score
1
Location
North Carolina
First Name
Steven
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
Good evening all. I recently had my engine rebuilt. My truck is a 1986 Chevy K10, 350, TH-700R4. While the engine was being rebuilt I cleaned up my engine compartment. I put in the new engine and:

1. The first time I tried to crank it the instrument panel lights came on (Brake light, etc ... ). but it just clicked.
2. I tried again, nothing, no instrument panel lights, nothing.
3. The headlights and interior lights work.
4. Took the battery to the parts store, battery is good.
5. Both + and - battery cables are new.
6. Cleaned Negative grounding connection to engine block
7. Tested Starter and Solenoid, took out starter and solenoid connected jumper cables to them and Jumped to the (I think its the S post, but the one that goes to the ignition, Purple wire on small post) other post with a screwdriver. Starter engaged and spun.
8. With starter and solenoid reinstalled, had my son turn ignition, no voltage on "S" terminal (small terminal post on solenoid).
9. Checked fuses with a multi-meter, continuity on fuses.

I'm thinking the ignition switch, but with just putting in a new engine I am thinking I might be overlooking something. Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,728
Reaction score
18,091
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
Ground from block to frame and frame to body?

Also, I didn't notice if you have the support strap on the starter to the block. That won't have anything to do with your present problem but should really be there to keep the starter from breaking its nose.
 

Steve123

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2018
Posts
12
Reaction score
1
Location
North Carolina
First Name
Steven
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K10
Engine Size
350
I found the problem. the fuseable link that goes from the terminal posts on the firewall. I checked voltage to them, they were good, but on the other side there is a fuseable link, it had been taped up. When I pulled it apart the wires were broken. Cranked good.
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,728
Reaction score
18,091
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
Great!
Good news is always nice to hear.
BTW, have you considered adding a heat shield to the starter/solenoid?
 

highdesertrange

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2013
Posts
1,066
Reaction score
211
Location
kalifornia
First Name
mike
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
k30
Engine Size
454
great news you found the problem. another potential problem is the main hot wire rubbing on the copper tab for the starter feed. you can see it has already chafed the insulation. with the correct 90° terminal the wire clears everything. highdesertranger
 

Snoots

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2013
Posts
8,728
Reaction score
18,091
Location
Georgia
First Name
Roger
Truck Year
1973
Truck Model
Jimmy Sierra
Engine Size
350 w/203
great news you found the problem. another potential problem is the main hot wire rubbing on the copper tab for the starter feed. you can see it has already chafed the insulation. with the correct 90° terminal the wire clears everything. highdesertranger

Good eye!
I didn't catch that.
That would be 1 HOT starter. For a little while.
Battery = $200
Starter = $150
New wires = $100
Light & Smoke Show = Priceless
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,133
Posts
949,988
Members
36,239
Latest member
tkleonard71
Top