SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME very appreciated

[codesteez]

Do these things mean that it would have to run advanced

 

[HotRodPC]

I'm rubbing my preperation h on as we speak haaa.

Just incase that Preperation H isn't working, JKnight found some medication for those who get butthurt !!!

 

[codesteez]

Haaaaaaaa hot rod PC those meds may help ya out a little and maybe a cranberry juice I heard that's good wen Ur on Ur period =-) just joking

 

[philjafo]

Ok 9 pages and we still don't have a solution, so I'm gonna toss my two cents at ya. Don't forget the basics double check the firing order, make sure the plugs are good and the correct heat range. Maybe pull a couple of em out and post us some good clear pics of them. It's 27 years old and likely has all the original vacuum lines. I don't know how well they hold up in cali but here in Wisconsin they'll be dry rotted and have small leaks all over. It's an intimidating task on a mid 80s carb motor but if you just take your time and swap them over one at a time its not so bad.

 

[codesteez]

They all have dry rot the connectors are all old dried out I truly think its a vac leak but I know zero about vacuum systems but I do want this resolved so bad wish one of guys lived around here Cuz I bet u would figure it out instantly! I don't MinD changing some parts out I know u guys don't like that but like u said its 20+ years old

 

[codesteez]

How do I check if the coil is bad or should I just buy a new one

 

[Jims86]

They all have dry rot the connectors are all old dried out I truly think its a vac leak but I know zero about vacuum systems but I do want this resolved so bad wish one of guys lived around here Cuz I bet u would figure it out instantly! I don't MinD changing some parts out I know u guys don't like that but like u said its 20+ years old

Believe me, I have contemplated taking a drive.

 

[chengny]

Do the basics one by one.

First is spark.

How do I check if the coil is bad or should I just buy a new one ?

Here is a good, quick overall test of the ignition system:

Pull a spark plug, reconnect the plug wire and ground it firmly to the engine.

Crank the starter and observe the condition of the spark as it arcs across the electrodes.

If you see a bright blue spark (that makes an audible snap sound) - that indicates a healthy ignition system.

If you get a weak yellow/orange arc (that sometimes skips a cycle) - there is an issue with the ignition system.

 

[chengny]

Second - make sure you have an adequate fuel supply:

FUEL PUMP FLOW TEST


1.Connect hose from carburetor fuel feed line to a suitable unbreakable container and crank engine.

2.Fuel pump should supply 1/2 pint or more in 15 seconds.

3.If flow is below minimum, check for fuel restriction. If there is no restriction, check pump pressure and/or vacuum.

If fuel flow is good up to the carburetor inlet - check the internal fuel filter.

If you have a standard quadrajet, the filter is right behind where the fuel line from the pump screws in.

On yours, it is as indicated below:

You must be registered for see images attach

While you have the tubing disconnected for the flow test, pull the internal filter and inspect it for blockage. Change as necessary.

 

[chengny]

I use the "FACTS" method.

F = fuel supply (remains to be checked)

A = air (inlet supply shouldn't be an issue with air filter removed. But see note below)

C = compression (passed - "compressing test was fine all very simular" post #101)

T = timing (possibly checked. Bring #1 piston to TDC on compression. Check by looking in the plug hole - don't rely on the marks. Pull the dist cap and confirm that rotor is pointing to the #1 post position.)

S = spark (remains to be checked)

If you do the spark, timing and fuel supply tests as above, you will have done them all.

Note: On the air flow: The engine has to breath out as well as in. Obstructed exhaust was discussed briefly in an earlier post (Jims86, post #60 - The lack of power sounds like plugged exhaust.) You have a new catylitic converter and muffler as noted. But what about the operation of the EFE/heat riser valve? What was the outcome of that test?

 

[chengny]

They all have dry rot the connectors are all old dried out I truly think its a vac leak but I know zero about vacuum systems but I do want this resolved so bad wish one of guys lived around here Cuz I bet u would figure it out instantly! I don't MinD changing some parts out I know u guys don't like that but like u said its 20+ years old

Does you still have an emissions sticker on the radiator support? I am guessing it's a YFM system and the hose routing should look like this:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[codesteez]

Hey thank u very much bud this is what I was looking for a list of things to check well I'm Gunna get at all that I will keep posting on here as I check things off that list thanks again

 

[89Suburban]

They all have dry rot the connectors are all old dried out I truly think its a vac leak but I know zero about vacuum systems but I do want this resolved so bad wish one of guys lived around here Cuz I bet u would figure it out instantly! I don't MinD changing some parts out I know u guys don't like that but like u said its 20+ years old

Does you still have an emissions sticker on the radiator support? I am guessing it's a YFM system and the hose routing should look like this:

You must be registered for see images attach

Jerry, just curious. When you decided on that diagram did you do so by what is in the diagram or by the 3 digit code? Is there any meaning to that 3 digit code and what is it?


Posted From Hell

 

[chengny]

I used the following parameters:

Model year 1986
Engine size 305 CID
Automatic transmission
California emissions
Low altitude (normal, as opposed to high alt) - this was an educated guess.

The YFM configuration is the only one that matched all the above.

 

[89Suburban]

I'm just wondering what the YMF stands for or what it means or if it is used as a reference or part number on a list or something.