Should my TBI's fuel pressure act like this?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,439
Reaction score
28,345
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
This would be an interesting test. But I returned the fuel pressure test kit to Auto Zone yesterday - having already made up my mind that I should get a new fuel pump.
If I'm still having issues after the new FP is installed, I'll circle back to this post and try your test.

You can still do this test without a pressure gauge. If you disconnect the oil sender with several wires (not the one with a single wire) and it no longer starts, then you know the issue is with the fuel pump relay or circuit.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Yep thats whatcha want - one of them adjustable deals. I dont know how it works but when ppl get to "tuning" on their tbi after making more power OR looking for more power..that is often the answer.
They get them gooder sprangs.
It's sure where mine was headed...needed more gas.
I know about changing the fuel pump ground wire AND I have chased a loose fitting hose inside the tank too. Similar symptoms.

Worm gear clamps are your friend. :)
 

gmbellew

Full Access Member
Joined
May 27, 2018
Posts
1,214
Reaction score
1,283
Location
Kansas city
First Name
glen
Truck Year
1990
Truck Model
suburban 1500
Engine Size
350
the pressure regulator controls the pressure between the pump and the regulator that feeds the injectors. it bleeds off any excess pressure into the return line. so you can measure pressure just after the fuel filter at the flex line (where I have my adapter installed) or at the TBI on the supply line (have to bend the hard line to get adapter in) or anywhere else you could between the pump discharge and the regulator at the TBI and the pressure will read the same.

and if the pump primes with key on, the fuel pump wiring and relay are likely good. disconnecting the oil pressure switch is a good check. but i bet it starts the same. i dont think 2 or 3 sec of cranking is building enough oil pressure to start. I'd be looking at trying to figure out if the power is somehow getting cutoff to the fuel pump circuit during cranking momentarily and verifying that the fuel pressure is really going to 0 during initial cranking.
 
Last edited:

RanchWelder

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2023
Posts
798
Reaction score
1,144
Location
Earth
First Name
--------
Truck Year
87
Truck Model
Blazer
Engine Size
355ci
o-rings everywhere.
Don't forget the OEM fuel filler hose and vent hose are probably dry rotten and leaking from rock hard rubber in the filler lines.
 
Last edited:

dsteelejr

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2020
Posts
239
Reaction score
231
Location
Hudson, WY
First Name
David
Truck Year
1973, 1980
Truck Model
Cheyenne super C20 camper special, Sierra K25
Engine Size
350, 454
For full disclosure I’m a carb guy through and through and my knowledge of TBI is limited, but I have an ‘88 K5 with 350/700R4 that’s 100% stock. I bought it from my uncle who is the original owner, he’s a retired mechanic and does all his own work. When he sold me the Blazer he gave me a heads up that it takes extra cranking time to fire up, not drastic but like a carbureted engine waiting for fuel to pump to the carb. He said it’s because there’s a check valve in the fuel line (I believe it’s on the pump but not 100% sure) that’s supposed to keep the fuel line charged with pressure for instant starts. He said through ordinary wear and tear the check valve has wore out. It hasn’t completely crapped the bed, but fuel slowly bleeds past it back into the tank. So if it’s not sitting for long it fires right up, but if it sits for hours or overnight or longer the fuel system loses pressure and takes a few seconds longer than it should to prime and get fuel to the TBI.

I never bothered to pressure check the system to see if you and I are experiencing the same sort of pressure drop because at this point it’s not a big deal for me. A few extra seconds of cranking, but when it fires up it runs fine. I’ll ask my uncle about your issue next time I see him.
 
Last edited:

gmbellew

Full Access Member
Joined
May 27, 2018
Posts
1,214
Reaction score
1,283
Location
Kansas city
First Name
glen
Truck Year
1990
Truck Model
suburban 1500
Engine Size
350
my 350tbi (1990 burb) fires in 2sec, maybe 3 sec, on a cold start every time. it fires instantaneously on a hot start every time. fuel pump is newish, and it did the same before and after the pump swap. I don't think the TBI system retains any residual pressure. I always just chalked it up to how quickly the fuel fires off in a hot engine vs a cold engine for this fuel delivery method, for the difference in start times.
 

dsteelejr

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2020
Posts
239
Reaction score
231
Location
Hudson, WY
First Name
David
Truck Year
1973, 1980
Truck Model
Cheyenne super C20 camper special, Sierra K25
Engine Size
350, 454
I don't think the TBI system retains any residual pressure.
Again, I’m not super knowledgeable on TBI, but with my uncle being a retired mechanic he always had the factory service manuals for every vehicle he owned and he gave them to me when he sold me his ‘88 Blazer so I had to look it up. I assume not much changed between OP’s ‘87 and 1988. Some TBI did automatically relieve pressure and some did not. For you and the OP:
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1810.jpeg
    IMG_1810.jpeg
    142.1 KB · Views: 27

dsteelejr

Full Access Member
Joined
May 25, 2020
Posts
239
Reaction score
231
Location
Hudson, WY
First Name
David
Truck Year
1973, 1980
Truck Model
Cheyenne super C20 camper special, Sierra K25
Engine Size
350, 454
Anyone??? Please!
Is fuel pressure supposed to dip to zero right after key on?
And it's falling quickly to zero after shut off normal? (Or a sign of a weak FP?)
The 1988 Factory Service Manual says in one of the diagnostic tests to note the fuel pressure in the first two seconds and the flow chart goes from there with other things to check. 9-13 psi is the correct operating range of pressure, so it seems your 12 psi of pressure means your fuel pump is probably good unless you go through the tests and find out otherwise. If it was less than 9psi it most likely wouldn’t be drivable. Here’s some bathroom material. Hope this helps. Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1811.jpeg
    IMG_1811.jpeg
    205.7 KB · Views: 35
  • IMG_1812.jpeg
    IMG_1812.jpeg
    184.3 KB · Views: 37
Last edited:

gmbellew

Full Access Member
Joined
May 27, 2018
Posts
1,214
Reaction score
1,283
Location
Kansas city
First Name
glen
Truck Year
1990
Truck Model
suburban 1500
Engine Size
350
Again, I’m not super knowledgeable on TBI, but with my uncle being a retired mechanic he always had the factory service manuals for every vehicle he owned and he gave them to me when he sold me his ‘88 Blazer so I had to look it up. I assume not much changed between OP’s ‘87 and 1988. Some TBI did automatically relieve pressure and some did not. For you and the OP:

thanks for that info. I have a L05 engine, so never looked into that for the other engines.

All the GM manuals are available in the reference library on this forum. they are a GREAT resource!
 

bucket

Super Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Posts
30,439
Reaction score
28,345
Location
Usually not in Ohio
First Name
Andy
Truck Year
'77, '78, '79, '84, '88
Truck Model
K5 thru K30
Engine Size
350-454
The 9-13psi spec is correct, but ideally you want 12-13psi because it will run noticeably better than at 9 or 10 psi. Some newer cheapo pumps are only capable of around 10psi right out of the box.

Also, they will actually run at 6 or 7 psi too, just terribly lol.
 

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
I can fix this.
WE can. I'm gonna help stupervize.

Even got pixz mess around.

I used to have an 88 Blazer
- r.i.p Bonnie Blazer. :(


Simple fix after you drop the tank. Lemme know when you're ready...im at work.
 

Attachments

  • 20190204_135633.jpg
    20190204_135633.jpg
    183.7 KB · Views: 25
Last edited:

Rusty Nail

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2015
Posts
10,041
Reaction score
10,133
Location
the other side of the internet
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1977
Truck Model
C20
Engine Size
350sbc
Dude!
Was at work but now im not.

Lookit

Dropped my Tank and made wire armors because that ish Is precious.

Lookit ere.
The pump is connected by a long tube that is connected to a sh1tty little piece of hose.

Bet that's your trouble. You'll have to drop the tank and install 3 inches worth of new fuel line.

Ethanol eats it up.

We're savin the planet!
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


That sure was a great truck. :( Love on yours real good and don't buy Progressive insurance. Never!
 
Last edited:

RaysnCayne

Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2020
Posts
44
Reaction score
17
Location
Richmond
First Name
Zach
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
R10 Custom Deluxe
Engine Size
305
Wow, lot of posts since I last checked in on this one. Thanks for all the info, guys!

I bought a "GM" pump off RockAuto a few days ago that comes with new in-tank fuel hose and such. I hope to get around to dropping the tank and installing it here in the next week or two.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
44,163
Posts
950,651
Members
36,276
Latest member
2manysquares2care
Top